aceuvspades

Nice video with a good demonstration of jacking a car up safely. It seems like I'll be able to jack up the car from the pinch welds on the sides which will be sufficient for doing the brakes I'm looking at doing for now. Thanks for pointing this out to me. Hopefully all the remaining parts I need show up this week and I can try it out next weekend. Thanks, Aaron

I see those lift points but if I go by only those points, there would be no way for me to lift with a floor jack and then put jack stands in place in those exact spots. Ideally I was hoping to find a spot center and underneath the rear of the car to lift both sides of the rear off the ground at the same time then I could put the jack stands on the points shown in that picture. The other option I was thinking if I can't find the center spot was to put the floor jack near those jack points but not exactly on them, lift one corner of the car and then put the jack stand in on the exact lift point, and do one corner of the car at a time. For that option I would use the slotted puck to put on the pinch weld line to distribute the weight and hopefully not cause any damage. I watched the youtube video you showed above in for rear shock replacement, and the mechanic in the video is using an expensive lift that he can get all four points on the lift at the same time and lift the entire car. I won't be able to do that. But he did mention that you could lift the car up like I am wanting to and then put jack stands in. He just didn't show where the lift points would be to do that. So I'll keep this topic open for further suggestions on additional lift points that would be centered under the rear of the car for lifting both rear wheels and also centered under the front of the car for when I want to do work by lifting both front wheels. Thanks to both of you for the initial responses on this and to anyone else in advance if you can provide more information. -Aaron

I have a 2013 MKZ 2.0L L4 Gas and finally decided this year I want to try to do some maintenance jobs on my own, the first one being replacing the brake pads/rotors. At this point my rear pads/rotors need changed. I have no experience doing auto work other than simple things like changing the battery, cabin air filter, etc. I've watched several youtube videos on changing the brake pads and rotors and it looks pretty simple assuming you have all the correct tools and parts. I went out and bought everything, including a floor jack and jack stands and now I'm finding that finding the correct pressure points under the car to put the floor jack and jack stands might not be as easy as I thought. Can you help me identify where to place these so I don't destroy my car (or worse)? My plan was to jack the car up with a low profile floor jack somewhere in the center to get both rear wheels up in the air and then place the jacks in place and lower onto them. I'll take the proper precautions such as leaving the car in park and putting wheel chocks behind the front wheels. I attached some pictures to help explain what I'm looking for. In the image called "rear_center_floor_jack_point" I marked the spot I think I should jack from. Is that the correct spot? Do I need to get a rubber puck type thing to put on my floor jack where it will push up against the car? There's a stock picture of the floor jack I bought attached too. And then in them image called "rear_side_jack_point" I don't see any clearly marked spot to put the jack stands. I've never had to remove the wheel to put a spare on so I've never had to worry about it to this point. When I look under the side carriage I see/feel a metal piece running along the entire side of the car from front to back between the front wheel to rear wheel, maybe this is a pinch weld line? Is it safe to put a jack stand on this anywhere towards the rear wheel? My jack stands have rubber puck things with a 4+ inch long groove that could go over that line to spread the pressure. I don't see any point on that line that really looks like it was meant for a jack or jack stand, but it looks like someone in the past jacked up off it as it's bent a bit as you can see in the image. If that center point under the rear is not good for jacking up with the floor jack and there are no other good ways to do it from the center, can I jack up with the floor jack along that side (pinch weld?) line if I have a grooved puck thing on the floor jack to distribute the weight, and jacking basically maybe a little further towards the front to give space for the jack stand closer to the wheel, and jack up one side at a time to get both sides sitting on jack stands? I don't want to get one side up on a jack stand and then while I'm jacking up the second side next push the first side off. My jack stands should be pretty good quality but I've never done it and again don't want to cause any major damage. Now that was my questions regarding the rear jacking. Some day I'm going to want to do my front brakes and that looks worse. Do I need to remove that soft cover from the front undercarriage that I highlighted in the image called "front_center_floor_jack_point" to find a spot to use the floor jack on? Any help/advice is appreciated! Thank you, Aaron

Thank you for the information. I will look into this further before trying to replace the sensor.

I started getting a check engine light the other day. I would turn on my car and within a minute the engine would stall. Then I would turn the car back on and it would run normally from that point, although it showed the check engine light. I brought it in to Autozone this morning and they checked the check engine code and it came back as P0087. This code was not in their database for Lincoln cars, although some other car brands were showing that this is related to "Fuel Rail/System Pressure was too low". My internet searches show codes related to this as well. Has anyone else had issues with this code before? I have a 2013 MKZ with the Ecoboost engine. The one hit I got on this forum for the P0087 code said they replaced the fuel rail sensor and that fixed the problem. Autozone showed me a "Fuel injection Pressure Sensor" that they said might be the problem. Is that the same thing as the fuel rail sensor? Is that something that is pretty easy to change out for someone that doesn't work on cars too much? Thank you.

I have a flat tire on my rear driver side of my 2013 MKZ 4cyl tech package 19" wheels. I cannot find the jack point to lift that wheel off the ground. The owners manual is vague enough that it didn't give me any help. Looking underneath I cannot find anything that looks like a jack point and feeling around nothing feels strong enough. Do I have to remove a panel or something to get to the jack point? thanks for your help.

Sounds like good advice. Hopefully the Motorcraft will do me better. Thanks.

The first time it happened to the battery that was in the car when I bought it. The next two time it happened to batteries from O'Reilly Auto Parts, and it was not a cheap battery but I don't remember the specifics. So you're saying that a car cannot provide conditions to a battery that make it more likely for a dead cell to occur?

I bought a 2013 MKZ just over two years ago. The battery has been dying with a dead cell every year. I just had it happen for the third time. With a dead cell you cannot even jump start it, it needs to be replaced. I have been able to get it replaced under warranty each time so cost isn't an issue (yet) but it is very inconvenient for your battery to die completely randomly and no way to drive until it is replaced. I asked the guy at the auto parts shop what causes dead cells and he said it is very rare and even said "one in a million" batteries will just get this problem. Considering I've had 3 batteries die from a dead cell in just over 2 years, I'm thinking the car must be causing this problem. Anyone else seen this problem or have any idea what could be causing it?

Thanks for the information. I guessed that this update would work for my car, but the navigation update website made it just confusing enough I wanted to make sure. And knowing that the maps contain that strip of turnpike all the way down to I30 and going through Richardson is good enough. Thanks for taking the time to check that out for me.

Does anyone know if the part # GM5T-19H449-AA is compatible with the 2013 MKZ? When you go through the lincoln gps map update website and put in the year and model as 2013 MKZ it takes you to this part # but then the list of compatible vehicles only says 2014-2015 MKZ. Also does anyone know (or could check) if the President George Bush Turnpike (190) in northeast Dallas county (TX) is included in the map? I have the 2013 map version and it is not there. That stretch of turnpike was probably opened around 2013 so I would assume 2016 maps would include it, but I would hate to pay as much as charged, even on eBay, and find out it is not there. Anyone have experience with these map updates from eBay and know how reliable they are? The screen shots I see on ebay look like official SD cards with the map updates, but I also read about people selling bad versions that could even be harmful to the system. Thanks.