MediumWilly22

This happens from time to time on these Ford products. I've found that disconnecting the battery tends to fix a lot of my little electronic Gremlins. Essentially an occasional power cycle does some good.

Is it possible that a CD is stuck half-way loaded? This happens frequently in any car and is easily rectified.

Yeah, drilling a lug nut is super labor-intensive. The idea there is to drill the stud out from the inside of the nut. The length of a stud would require you to drill for a long period of time and probably go through at least five bits per. My estimate for that job... 1- hr labor and $20 misc. equipment charge per wheel (and would probably still lose cash on bits) 1- hr labor to replace (4) lug studs (I've actually done this for my wheel spacers. I had to separate the axle from the hub to get the clearance to remove the studs from the hub) Cost of the (4) studs $20 Cost of the hub assembly $200? (Cost incurred for the failure of the tech to drill a perfect 90-degree angle at the exact dead center of the rounded top of the lug nut for the entire length of the lug nut stud and resulting damage to the stud seat on the hub). High % chance this cost is incurred four times. 1-hr labor for those hub assemblies. Total, between $1000 -$2000 plus possible damage to your wheels. Finding a someone stupid enough to try....priceless. The brute force technique is the more civilized way in this case. I would've taken an old socket just slightly smaller than the locking lug and hammered it on. A nice long breaker bar and slow even pressure. Gone in 60 sec. No doubt, I've done it many times.

Once again. This is no big deal. Do not drill! Its not that interesting, I've been through it a hundred times. Whatever, I give up... :( Good luck

That's bull crap. https://www.google.com/search?q=snap+on+damaged+bolt+remover+socket+set&client=tablet-android-google&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&biw=1024&bih=768&dpr=2&srpd=16925886504643280161&ved=0ahUKEwiC6da7hN_WAhUM6CYKHXAzCv8QnUAIcw&prds=cid%3A14436865860798056727%2Csgro%3Aiv%2Cmvi%3A0 This guy will do the trick. Hammer that thing on and that wheel lock doesn't stand a chance. Return to that dealership at your own risk! Once again BULL CRAP!

They won't stop thieves but they seem to confound your dealer's mechanic. Drilling them is excessively intrusive and possibly damaging to your wheels and hub assembly. Not to mention time consuming and expensive. It would take me about 5 seconds to bust those off with my damaged bolt removal socket. They would have to be replaced afterwards, of course.

My mistake, that'll work, how are you powering the amp?

I don't think that works brother, be careful. I may be wrong, what's the make and model of the device?

In saw the BBK for the 3.7L F-150 and was intrigued. I agree that most throttle body "upgrades " are junk, but this one looked legitimate. I cross-referenced the OEM part number of my t-body with the F-150's and they matched. Did some research on how people liked it on their F-150s and Mustangs and saw positive reviews. Then I put a digital micrometer on my throttle body and the plenum intake neck. Throttle body 70mm. Intake neck 74mm. I suppose I could have measured inaccurately. I figured that the BBK would work similarly to all the reviews I had read...as long as the computer could handle it. I gotta say, it works. Wanna trade some secrets?

Dang it. I thought the throttle body thing was my little secret. Guess the cats outta the bag. I have the 73mm BBK for the F150 on my 2014 MKZ. The car performs much differently. Much better. Slight power increase, but the throttle mostly just reacts faster, which does seem to affect the shift points in a positive manner. I've had it installed for about three months with no trouble codes or otherwise negative effects. Nice find Zalvern.

I'm not really a fan. It's really nearly pink. I'll probably try and order another set and hope I have better luck.

Kind of hard to see the color in these images, but you can see the red light on the lens itself.

These definitely are purple. There is a red and a blue LED inside of the lens.

I used the link provided above and was surprised to see that the lights I received illuminated in purple. Did anyone else out there get a color other than blue?

The left rear brake assembly is doing its job. I suspect a problem with the right rear. If you stick a flashlight in the wheel and look at the brake rotors, do you see any rust?

That's a good call jmcgliss. It could be a delaminated brake pad friction surface. A corroded caliper slide is a potential culprit as well. Rear brakes are only responsible for about 30% of your braking power so a condition where braking power from the rear slowly degenerates over a period of time can sometimes be hard to detect by the daily driver. Does the vehicle pull to one side or the other under hard brake application? Does the parking brake work correctly on a hill?

Zalvern makes a great point. There is no good reason as to why this dealership could not rectify such an elementary issue as wheel assembly run-out. The amount of weight applied to your rims was not only abnormal, but incompetent. Any trained tech should have been able to fix this issue. Compound that with an obviously uninterested/uninformed management who allowed that kind of work, accepted that explaination with no further investigation, and then relayed that information to the customer and you have a problem. Lincoln should be informed.

I'll vouch for the Nushield. It works great. Not only keeps the fingerprints at bay, it also helps with the sun glare from the pano roof. I can actually see my screen now. It also gives the somewhat matte appearance of the display a deeper almost glass look. I'm very happy with mine.

Installed H&R on all four corners and tested. Now in process of installing Eibachs. Currently running H&R on the front and Eibach on the rear. Will update when the process is complete. I was obviously initially turned off by the look at first, but it has grown on me and I'm glad I decided to continue the install. Now it's a matter of which kit performs better. Performance is what drove me to lower the stance to begin with.

I guess we'll have to agree to disagree.

T@CD3, I have H&R wheel spacers installed and they look great, fit great, and are well made. I like H&R, I like CD3. That being said, somebody is lying. I'm no rookie, I can see the difference and feel the difference. Progressive rate spring? Progressive rate spring! Not sure how installing the rear springs will affect the ride quality in the front. I certainly see how it would affect high speed cornering and steering. Now that I'm getting some interest, I'll finish the project.

DevilSH, The look is growing on me some. I really wanted to sleep on that issue and get some feed back. Thanks for the vote of encouragement. I'll probably try the rears out. Part # is as stated.

I bet the speaker in the dash is the issue. A loose connection may be toggling on/off and the pop you are hearing is that circuit opening and closing. Also, if the + side of the circuit touches metal or the - terminal, it could short and cause a fault condition in the amp. Power cycling can clear this fault. Amps of all types (car audio, home audio, pro audio) have this type of failsafe that possibly is not monitored by the BCM. I'm not sure how to remove that speaker but it may be easier to find that info than finding a TSB or wiring diagram without paying for a suscription (I've tried).

The trunk on my 2014 has issues also. It won't close with the key fob button. I have a 2014 Ford Edge as well that has a trunk problem similar to yours though. This system is pretty terrible. I had the dealer check out the Ford, they replaced the struts. That didn't fix it. A module reflash fixed it for about 3 weeks. I need to take it back. I haven't had the Linc looked at yet, I have things to do besides fixing trunks. They suck.

I'm already leaning towards returning to stock setup. I've installed a performance lowering kit on every car I've had for the last twenty years. I've experience good and bad. This one just feels bad so far. It feels like a car with a 200+k miles suspension, not an upgrade. I'm not necessarily knocking H&R, this kit was not engineered for my vehicle. Fitment specs match the Fusion, performance specs probably don't. I would hate to put the rear springs on only to remove later, but I don't necessarily want to back track without thorough vetting. These kits have a little break in period, so I'm thinking I drive it for a while an see if the rebound evens out. Another concern is aesthetics. The wheel sits tighter in the wheel well, which is usually desirable, but the large wheel well design of the Linc makes it look kind of wrong. As a side note, I was told by the distributor where I purchased the kit that the springs were progressive rate. They are not. The Eibach kit is, (I own this kit too, never installed, long story). I might just swap over to Eibach. I've had much success with their kits in the past....