Jasen Hibberd

I did do both of the keyfobs - both keyfobs make the horn honk when I do the key 8x on-off procedure - then I turn the key off and the door locks cycle to confirm programming - but it still lets me dads fobs work.. If I follow the procedure in the manual, absolutely nothing happens at all to confirm anything is programmed. Edit: So I found something interesting on an F150 forum -- listen to this: "The OEM 80bit keys are programmed with the 2 key method and this also programs the 3 (or 4) button remote attached to the key. AFTERMARKET 80bit keys have to be programmed in 2 steps, FIRST the key must be programmed to the truck (actually its the opposite, but lets not dwell on semantics), SECOND, the 3 (or 4) button integrated remote must be programmed via the keyfob (8 cycle) method. If you try to program an OEM key using the keyfob method, the device is rejected (horn honks) until you program the key first. " So it sounds like you cannot program OEM keys using the keyfob method.. then how the heck do you reset the darn keyfob list!?

I have two keyfobs, I put fresh batteries in them -- this issue is so strange - if I have both of the keys with me in the car, after I take one key out of the ignition one of the keys (its random) will operate the door locks, but not both of them right away - after a minute or so, both of them begin to function just fine. I tried to find programming instructions for the 2012 MKZ, but it doesn't seem to have done anything. The owners manual says you can insert one key, wait 3 seconds, take the key out, put in a second key (like you are programming a third key) and it's supposed to program the IKT as well... that did nothing. - I did find the procedure where you cycle the key on and off 8x ending in the on position - the door locks did cycle like they were supposed to per the instructions, however, pressing a button on either of my remotes just causes the horn to honk once, not cycle the door locks to indicate that programming for that remote was successful. Taking the key out of the ignition at that point just leaves me where I started - but remotes work after a minute or so, and my dads Ford remote still locks and unlocks my doors. I tried my brothers Ford remote - it did not respond at all. So it seems like an issue with just his remote being programmed as an extra somehow? Maybe I'm not doing the procedure right, but if anybody else has any ideas on how to program the keyfobs, let me know.

So, I've noticed over the past few weeks that after I get out of my car (2012 MKZ) I can't use my key fob to lock or unlock my doors, there is a minute or two delay before it starts working again but only sometimes, and now it's gotten worse, not only can I not use my fob for a couple minutes after I get out of the car (remote works fine if the key is in the ignition and it is turned on), but my dad locked his Ford truck yesterday and my car responded to HIS fob like he locked it with his remote - he was able to unlock both vehicles. What the actual heck?

I just rolled over 77,000 miles - so still pretty low mileage for this thing to start sounding like a rattle house. The drivers side door even creaks when you accelerate and decelerate (but I've found I can make that stop for a couple months by wrapping the door latch in electrical tape)! I may just have to consult my dealer about that OBD2 bracket then because the rattle is so loud that you can hear it over the stereo at more than half volume... And as for the mirror, I mean the inside rear view mirror. It appears that it's not the mount that is rattling, it's the glass inside the actual rear view mirror that is rattling in the housing - holding the inside rear view mirror with my hand will stop the rattle. I replaced it and the problem went away for a couple months but then it came back, so I assumed it could potentially be a known issue with that particular auto dimming mirror.

I have a 2012 MKZ - I am at a loss for what to do here - a brand new rattle has suddenly appeared underneath the dash and it seems like its the bracket that holds the OBD2 port in place - if I reach down while I'm driving and just hold the bracket, the rattle stops. It sounds like a metal on metal noise. I crept under there and took a look, everything seems to be tight. Holding the OBD2 port does not seem to help the rattle, only holding the bracket does... Rattle seems to almost disappear once the car is warmed up on the inside (heat blasting at the footwell area), and is especially bad when its cold. Any ideas? Speaking of rattles - anybody else have an issue where the rear view mirror rattles? I think thats just normal because I've already replaced the mirror and the new one has the same issue.

Hello! I have a 2008 MKZ, and the other day I was driving on the freeway with the heated seat on, when I smelled a burning smell..shortly after the heated seat turned off...Didn't notice it until I went to go turn it back on. I turned the heated seat back on, you could hear the blower kick on, and about 30 seconds later the burning smell came back, and 60 seconds later the lights for the heated seat turned off...Sounds like something burned!! Just for kicks I turned on the passenger heated seat and it works fine. I turned on the drivers side cooled seat and it did the same thing, burning smell, turn off.. So what's going on here? It can't be the heater element since it affects both heated and cooled seat functions? Smells kind of like a very hot MOTOR. Could the blower be the culprit? Looking under the seat does not reveal any smoke when turning on the seat functions.

Hello everybody! I noticed today that the door lock LED on the door lock switch is out on my 2008 MKZ...I've tried disassembling it and everything looks fine...Anyone had this ever happen to them? Do you need a new door lock switch?