Jakevandee

I would instead recommend upgrading the IPC firmware to a 2017+ for the proper digital speedo, pulling it out and 3d printing (or ordering from an online 3d printing service) a larger frame, as behind the “analog” speedo/tach, it’s just more screen. (I’ll do some digging for the print file). If you do the frame mod, a “skin” for the cluster will be needed for it to look proper and you’d do that via PimpMyFord. The mod is really popular over in Europe with the Ford Mondeo (basically a fusion with mkz cluster). There’s someone named “MA MODS” on Facebook that’s extremely helpful and am currently working with them for a design on mine. Here’s some pics of the finished product’s with and without the frame mod in other Z’s.

Awesome, thanks for the tremendous help. Now I just gotta figure out how to mount the woofer correctly.

Did you only use the metra adapter to the crossover or did you splice from the tweeter wire?

Alright, I’ll give it a try. Thanks.

I just got the speakers today and there’s a ton of tweeter mounting options, which one did you go with?

I’m looking at buying a set of the Infinity REF-6530CX, did the infinity’s you put in your car have the crossovers for the tweeters? I don’t know where I would install them.

Great! I replaced the rear deck speakers with a sub last year and have been wanting to upgrade the doors too. Have you had any issues with the ANC having feedback?

Hi, has anyone replaced speakers on their 2013-2016 MKZ? The door speakers seem pretty straight forward, but the center speaker seems to have rivets. Has anyone replaced any speakers and/or had any problems? Thanks.

I’ve always thought the same thing until I saw this video. They seem pretty legit, I just haven’t seen anyone put one on an MKZ so I thought I’d hit the forum to see everyone’s thoughts.

Hi, I recently discovered a website called Racechip that sells ecu piggybacks for many turbo’d cars. I’ve seen videos and stats proving their legitimacy, has anyone here tried one of their products? Thanks.

I was not, but I am pretty sure the screen would have to be changed or flashed to be able to use the different seat, I'm also pretty sure it is a different connector.

I already solved the problem and was posting a guide for the 2016 then one of the mods told me I was wrong

Hmm, I’m my 2016 that one did not work

That’s probably the fuse labeled delayed accessory then.

***edit*** I found a fuse that works for people who don’t want to buy the low output converter with the 12 volt on. It’s the only fuse that shuts off with the car labeled “delayed accessory” in a fuse diagram

Hi, I have the a 2016 MKZ and I’m thinking about buying a used set of the massaging seats for the MKZ since they aren’t very expensive from a salvage car, is it plug and play or would I need to do some forscan work? If that’s not possible would adding either a heated steering wheel or cooled seats be easier? Thanks.

I finished my project and since there is very little information on installing a subwoofer online I’ll share some information. First I started with a little $8 kit from amazon of panel poppers and a tool to take out what I think they are called “popits” and since there were very many to take out in the process this helped a lot. I started by taking the drivers side door areas and under the seal that keeps the water from coming in I came in with the panel poppers and you have to be a little rough to get the panels to pop out, I then found an area to go through in the firewall which is the hood release cable, do not cut it because it is about 1-2 inches long so you have to push it out to get the power wire through.(start from the inside of the cabin and push into the engine because the hole cannot be seen from the engine bay). Next I tucked the power wire in the carpet which worked great and I removed the rear seat and a little flat panel right next to it and that had great area to cable manage. I kept the excess under the floor by the spare tire. Next for signal I bought the Metra 72-5601 to plug directly into the rear deck 6x9 speakers for signal and shipped the ends off to the bare speaker wire and ran some speaker wire to a low output converter with a 12 volt amp turn on and the ground I got from under the rear seat which comes out with 2 little plastic pins that you push to the side and the rear seat comes right out. I tried to do the remote wire to the little fuse box by the pedals but after trying about 5 I realized the fuses have power on all of the time. I used some stronger double sided tape to hold down the low output converter and my amp by the spare tire area as well to keep my trunk tidy. And lastly for the bass knob I ran it by the power wire then under my seat. (Sorry I’m not the best at writing guides but if you have any questions feel free to ask here).

No, the amp that’s just for the rear deck speakers I’m talking about

Do you know how many watts the amp is or any of the specs other than it is a mono block and 2 ohms?

Do you have a wiring diagram for the stock amplifier?

Id assume the amp is at least 200 watts. And if it’s the same bass level as the stock ones that’s fine it’s just they don’t have very good dynamics and really fall off around 40 hz which is where the bass notes in my music tend to be.

If I just hooked the amp up to a 12 inch subwoofer.

Hi, I have the 2016 mkz with the 11 speaker (base), and I found out the rear speaker amp is just for the rear deck speakers and it is a monoblock amp. The speakers are also 2ohms so if I swap them out and from the amp connect leads to a subwoofer would it work? Could anything really go wrong if I try it.