rubyinla

Any updates ?

KYB's are very good. I've had them on any number of cars. From my Miatas to, most recently, my wife's Ford Flex. They are a quality brand name and good ride. This is all assuming you don't have the electronically controlled ones.

With the hybrid I've got a really tiny battery. A little over 2 months old now. Drove it yesterday. This morning it's sitting at 12.03 volts.

hehe... yup, to say the least. Ignorance of a system and a lack of resources, leads to all sorts of internet ideas. And, the service writers are probably some of the worst sources of information on the planet. For the last week voltages seem to slide between 12.2v and 11.9v while it's waiting in the stable. ? Probably about time to stop worrying about it. We've now got 3 cars and drive, maybe, 12k a year. Somethings gotta leave the barn and it isn't "our" new toy. Just added a 2005 Thunderbird. Sort of blows mpg out the window ? but the V8 rumble is worth it !!

Curious observation... So I've been coming back to the car, after not having started it for a few days, and finding the battery at 11.9 / 11.8. Trying to figure out if this is "normal" in the hybrid. A few days ago I got the "System Off to Save Battery" sign on the sync screen. The trunk works normal, trunk light isn't on and nothing is in the accessory plug.

Took it to the dealer for an "exam". They ended up resetting the BMS after finding "a lot of low battery codes stored in the computers which were cleared out and didn't come back." One thing that I noticed driving around town and on the freeway is the hybrid battery is being used more often now. Previously, never really saw it come on when climbing onto the freeway or helping out / taking over at freeway speeds. This might be part of the reason I had noticed a decrease in MPG. We'll see how it goes.

Went out to the car (hybrid) yesterday and it was dark. As in 3.75 volts. On the 24th I put in the brand new battery and did the flash the headlights to reset the BMS. Last drove it around on 10-23 and it's been sitting since then. Four days. It has sat for longer periods of time previously so I'm not worried about some dark current. Had my Genius 750 charger on it for 18 hours and it's still not charged. Reading around 5 volts charging from the engine bay jumper points. Hopefully the CPO warranty covers some of this.

old thread, but I thought I'd mention, to those that don't have a tire pressure read-out it may be time to check your tires air pressure. The 100* plus days of summer have finally passed and our frigid 60*'s have arrived ? I randomly decided to check my tire pressures, last checked last summer, and they were all at 28psi, down from 35psi. No wonder my mpg has gone down. That 40* temp change certainly effected the 19" tires.

Thanks... That's what I was thinking. Earlier comment about connecting to they hybrid battery in the trunk didn't seem right. That's where I connected my charger while I had the battery out during the battery swap to the new one. Figured it would probably keep any computer setting so the whole thing didn't have to start re-learning.

Holy Cow... 40k miles is absurd. So is the repair price. ? Local Lincoln dealer shop rate is either $210 or $240 an hour. Forgot which, but sort of irrelevant to me when it went over $80. haha 3 Mustangs, 2 Explorers, Flex, Cougar (forced on me) and never a problem like that. Yellow '67 Mustang convertible bought in flight school in 1969. Sold during the arab oil embargo and bought a Toyota Carola, with the big engine & a/c for $2600. Seemed like a good idea at the time ?

I know this has been a while, but I'm trying to figure out if the owner's manual, that shows a Positive and Negative connection under the hood can be used for charging. My manual, on page 257 & 258 show how to jump the vehicle. Is there a difference between connecting the charger or jumper cables to the battery vs the battery prongs under the hood?

Holy cow... $1150!! https://www.silverstatefordparts.com/search?search_str=Headlight&ptid=2796 If I got the model right, they're a lot cheaper, "pre-owned" from Ebay. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1311&_nkw=2017+lincoln+mkz+headlight&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=Headlamp+Assembly+-+Ford+%28HP5Z-13008-K%29&_osacat=0

I think you may have missed my comment that this battery is for the HYBRID, not a 3.0 V6. It's a whole different deal electrical system. There is no alternator for starters (pardon the pun). This is the Ford battery from the Ford dealer. It is the only one that fits the space. 760 CCA just aren't needed for it. Also, the substandard battery lasted 6 years and 53,000 miles, so it did ok. As above, ymmv :)

I watched his videos. He had a couple, mostly relating to Fords. His 5 flash routine is what I did. I also added his link in my post, which, for some unknown reason, is not available anymore according to youtube. Most of these service advisors have no clue what's going on. Every day is brand new and just more paper. Unfortunately they guard the gate to the mechanics, so there's little choice. Just trying to pass on what I have been told and seen. Obviously, ymmv ?

I replaced my battery yesterday with the FoMoCo battery BXT-99RT4A for $150. It's only 8" across vs the 11" for the H6 (48) AGM. It's only got 390 CCA, compared to the 760 from the H6 battery. The BXT is for the Hybrid. Costco couldn't even find a cross reference for it. I asked the service writer at the Ford dealer about the BMI and resetting it with a Scan tool. He said there was not necessary for cars built before 2020 or 2021. I put a trickle charger on while I was replacing the battery, just in case the war stories were correct that we'd lose radio settings, idle settings and so on. That seems to have worked, but can't tell if it was necessary or not. Next did the 5 head light flashes and 3 brake pushes. Within a couple of seconds after that I heard mechanical sounds from the engine bay. Not sure if it was just the brakes or something else. No indications on the dash, as we don't have the 12 volt battery warning.

According to this video about Ford BMS resets you can flash your headlights 5 times and then your brake peddle 3 times. There are a number of videos confirming this. Not sure if it works with the hybrid though. I had to alter the url so it wouldn't bring up the whole youtube screen >>> https:// www.youtube.com/watch?v=VEDKsKEetMg https:// www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiBBDnTUcIY

Humbug.. doesn't seem to be working anymore.

Speaking of the BMS, I just watched a YouTube video about replacing the battery. Guy was talking about needing the BMS reset after installing the new battery. Wonder how many are doing the rest? I'm getting the "System Off to Save Battery" message. After the message a loud click. Either side of the speedometer are blacked out. Figure it's about time. It's been in for around 6 years and 53,500 miles. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jo_QR0FCffo Costco https://costco.interstatebatteries.com/home/results?key=auto&ZipCode=91325&l=91325&Program=100500&choice1=2047492&choice2=2048950&choice3=2048975&choice4=2048976&choice5=2048977&Country=US Going to give them a call and see if they are capable of the BMS rest. Group Size: H6 (48) AGM $179.99* I just picked up the H6 battery from CostCo and it is too big. The tag on the Hybrid FoMoCo battery i BXT-99RT4.

For my last oil change I showed up at my local Ford dealer, 30 minutes early, for my 10am oil change appointment. Service writer finally got to me and asked if I was waiting. Then he announced it would be 4 HOURS before they'd get to me. I was pissed. I had made the appointment 2 weeks earlier. Needless to say they didn't get my business. Jiffy Lube did. Here are the caveats; I get an upfront price for labor only to change the oil, I bring my own Mobil 1 oil, bring my filter with me and sit in the car while they do the change. I can watch them opening my oil bottles. I don't use their oil, or Ford's for that matter, and I definitely will never use Jiffy's oil filters. I keep the receipt to prove the oil change was done. Get your Mobil1 at Costco when it goes on sale or the 5 gallon jug at Walmart. There is no oil change on the face of the planet that is worth $159 to me. Not to mention, they rip you off with an extra fee for the 0-20wt because they claim it's super special. Only to the dealer. Lincoln wanted over $200 to do the service! Never going to happen. I have tire rotations done at America's Tires, where I bought them. Good service, prices and they'll re-balance the tires when they rotate them for free. I also get a military discount there. Engine oil filters, engine air filters and cabin air filters come from Amazon, as did my FOMOC spark plugs for $28.00. First time it took me 35 minutes to change them. Next time, maybe 20 and I'm in my 70's ? Genuine OEM SP530X Iridium Spark Plugs (4 pack) AYFS32YRX Hope all are / had a great 4th of July.

This may all be a moot point. I stopped by the Lincoln dealership and talked to a service writer on Saturday. All his Lincoln tech's were gone so he promised he'd check on 7-5 and call me. Then I asked his him if the shop rate was $110 an hour. Nope, it's $240 !!!! an hour. No wonder folks keep leasing and selling cars after the warranties expire! Happy 4th of July !!

Thanks for the advice. I have a feeling you are correct, but I'll give the Ford route a try... Interesting that I've talked to 2 guy service writers who quoted me prices to update the 2.?? software. Lady I just talked to, who's not a service writer, is the first person to understand my request. Interesting that the updates are to fix updates, not surprising, but interesting ? Obviously, from all the recommendation I've read CyanLabs seems legit. I'm just reluctant to wade into a sea of acronyms and serial numbers that I know nothing about. If this Ford / Lincoln "as-built" can't be changed I'll just sit on my hands and be happy that it runs and isn't a red brick ? Thanks... I'll post what happens

The journey continues... My 3.4 unit came with revision 19200 installed. Since we now have 20282 out there my guy genes have kicked in and I'm feeling compelled to update my unit. Not feeling super confident about using CyanLabs I got on https://www.ford.com/support/sync-maps-updates As luck would have it, Ford still thinks I have 2.3 installed, and has a cool update for me based on my VIN. The folks at Ford said they couldn't change my as-built to my 3.4 to go along with my new 3.4. Said I'd have to get the dealer to do that. Well, I've called 3 dealers and left 4 messages on successive days and still have not received a call back. Lincoln guy want's $200 to do the update, but wasn't the sharpest pencil in the stack so I'm not trusting his mumbling. Hopefully, this week, I can get through to a "service" advisor to get a price to just change my "as built" to show 3.4. My other option is to find a '19 or '20? and "borrow" their VIN for the exercise / exorcism ? One of the caveats for the CyanLabs update was a caution about doing this with 2020 year vehicles. Being a 2016 vehicle and a 2019 screen that should not be a consideration. To be continued....

In January I changed out a Sync 2 for a Sync 3.4. There were a couple of links in the thread that might still be valid and not broken. This company might be of interest. https://cyanlabs.net/ and lots of stuff here... go to this thread. Must be 70 pages of posts. U have to enter the https stuff. the link breaks if I post the whole thing. >>> expeditionforum.com/threads/update-all-versions-of-ford-sync-3-to-the-latest-sync-3-4.42507/page-11

Have you tried looking around this web site? https://fordsyncforum.com/index.php?/topic/7395-new-sync-34-update-available/&tab=comments#comment-23559 I upgraded my 2. whatever to 3.4 in my 2016 and wrote a post about it. Mine came with 3.4 already installed. I seem to remember reading you might just need to change your VIN for the update. Get a VIN off a 2019 or later crashed MKZ at your junk yard of choice. This was what I got and installed... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sync3-Upgrade-Kit-for-Ford-Lincoln-SYNC-2-Upgrade-SYNC-3-MyFord-Touch-MFT-NAVI/184427316499?hash=item2af0b98513:g:R9YAAOSw6atfThhZ&autorefresh=true Also, read thru this Ford Expedition forum. Lots of comments about Sync. https://tinyurl.com/ye4bbt9e good luck

Thanks for the reply. After some detective work I discovered the errant fob had CR-2016 batteries in it. How those got in since they came out of a package labeled CR2025 is an Amazon mystery.. Voltage was fine, but the thickness was just enough different to stop making contact. But... Why? Since it had worked when it was hung up the last time? At any rate, I have 2 working key fobs and have learned more about the system than I ever needed to. BTW, I also learned that holding the unlock button down for 3 seconds lowers all the windows and raise the sun roof. You all knew that, right? hehe