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Hello all. I'm not sure what to do here. Whenever I'm in reverse and turning the wheel (out of a parking spot), my car jolts hard. Almost as if there is a chunk loose and its breaking through the gears. Other than that, no issues. Are there any options out there for a fix? Is the unit sealed? Replace the diff? I love the car (2017 Lincoln MKZ 3.0 AWD) but unsure how to proceed forward. Roughly about 140k on it now. Any info or ideas or fixes would be greatly appreciated here. Thank you.

were these replaced with motorcraft

I just got a 2017 with 72k and my transmission shifts hard from 1 to 2. I think its slipping or something.. to the shop I go 😞

What nuts are you talking about? There is one nut that holds the shock to the upper mount and the upper mount has two bolts that go into the frame. There are two bolts that go into the lower mount of the shock absorber so I cannot tell what nuts need to be welded back in place

Just wondering what motivated the shock change. I hear clunking coming from the rear shocks or at least that area. I have already replaced the upper housing and thought that that fixed the problem but it did not. Any way to test these shocks to see if the electrical portion of it is working

EVAP System Components Bear with me I am still an apprentice; I have done so much research my brain is having an aneurism. I will start from the sign's, symptoms, then to the codes and what I have come to think myself. First issue that arose was when I filled the tank the pump would stop VERY frequently like every dollar, and when I would go to push in the filler neck into the tank pressure would auditably spew out, which made me think a tank vent valve was bad, but I was told I was wrong and ignored it. Then check engine light came on and shortly after that the engine seemed to be having hard start and shut down, when the car switches from hybrid to electric as well there is a rough shutdown on the engine side. After running an OBD II system check two codes appeared, P2451 and P0451 listed as "Permanent". I have researched the Schematics, layout and parts and cannot figure out how to repair this issue. I'm asking myself is there one that's causing the other? Is there an issue I am missing causing these both? What other test am I missing that may give me my answer?

Hi rowenhuggins and welcome to the Lincoln MKZ Forum. No. Unfortunately, it is not a realistically feasible modification/swap. Good luck.

Hi Joe Grimes and welcome to the Lincoln MKZ Forum. If I remember correctly: Remove the fill plug from the rear differential, then stick a finger the fill hole in to ensure the fluid is filled to the bottom of the plug hole. If my memory is incorrect, I am sure someone will jump in with the correct information. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

How do I check the rear differential oil level on my 2020 Lincoln MKZ 2.0 turbo AWD?

I have a 2012 Lincoln mkz all wheel drive base model 3.5 engine, is my drive shaft rear a two piece or a three piece & can it be replaced with a one piece?

I've got a 2013 Hybrid, and I really dislike the hybrid gauge cluster. I was wonder if anyone has swapped out the hybrid gauge cluster for the non hybrid one or if that's possible. Now of course I'd lose hybrid information but otherwise are there any discrepancies for that, and how would I go about programming mileage?

I am buying a 2015 MKC and it has a sound coming from the front door panel and driver side rear door panel. It almost sounds to me like the door locks are semi engaging or something because the sound is so consistent I can almost time it between the doors. When I say time it i mean it happens over and over within about 4 seconds of each other and Im not too sure the other doors arent effected as well. Could this be the lock actuator acting screwy>

Does the warranty cover it being almost 9 years old?

Hello All I have around 125K on my 2017 MKZ 3.0. It runs fine, driving it puts a smile on my face, and I plan to keep it for a long time 250K+. What is a suggested interval for timing chain replacement and can the water pump impeller be replaced? Thanks for any input.

Since putting in the first new 93 octane fill-up, no pesky P0300 codes. So seems all is good.

When wipers are manually activated the arms go slowly in a jerky motion to "12 O'Clock" position and stop!

Hi Jdsander. Our vehicles are designed to run on 87-89-91-93 octane. As an example, I run 87 octane fuel all the time in my 2018 MKZ 3.0T and have had absolutely no issues in almost 7 years. A properly operating 3.0T MKZ should have no issues with 87 octane fuel, unless it was poor quality fuel (as you mentioned) and/or there is some other type of powertrain issue. That being said...Do what you think is best for your circumstances, keep us updated and good luck.

Thank you for the input. Well a little digging and it seems some of the 2.0 turbo folks have had a similar problem when they try running either 87 or mid-grade/plus. I have been running it on premium for five years but on the way back from that road trip, my last fill up was about 80 miles from home, the station was being renovated, and they did not have premium so I put in a fill up with plus grade. I did not drive it for two days and then the CEL came up. Between then and this week when I picked it up from the dealer, it was down to about 6 gallons. I filled it up with premium ( 93 octane) and so far no problems. I may could have been bad gas, or it just does not like lower grades. Whatever the case I am thinking a tank or two of the good stuff will fix the problem.

Hi Jdsander. Can't believe they even recommended that. 🙄 As long as the CEL is not flashing, simply drive and run the tank down to half or so and fill it with regular. Then do it again. That will sufficiently dilute the premium fuel. Therefore, if it is an issue with the premium fuel (I highly, highly doubt it), then it should fix itself with one half tank fill-up. And after some driving with no misses or other related issues, the CEL will reset itself. I am sure others will jump in with more advice, so keep us updated and good luck.

The P0300 engine warning is showing up on a 2017 MKZ 3L AWD. Warning light is on but not flashing. The dealer has had it for the third time as of now, occurring over less than a month. The first time out they replaced coil packs and spark plugs . Second time did a bit of "computer programing". The third time is on-going. Otherwise it runs fine, does not seem to affect performance (earlier in Dec did a road trip to AZ through TX with some very long straight stretches posted at 80 mph, it ran fine). The error code shows up on start up. I may notice a faint, really faint (not even like a bad spark plug wire on an old V8) miss early after start up if I am outside the car. They have reset the codes and P0300 returns after driving it for maybe up to 100 miles. Total mileage on it is around 120K. Any input would be appreciated. Just an update: service rep calls he conferred with the tec and their verdict is: The premium fuel is the issue it has a higher flash than regular fuel causing it to have a lean condition and they would need to suck the fuel out at a cost of $600 dollars and fill with regular? Now this is at a Ford dealer. My thoughts are not even printable.

I ordered an 2020 MKZ wiring diagram manual in preparation of doing some audio upgrades. I ordered the standard manual, but I was sent the Hybrid manual. (eBay seller was great and refunded me and told me to keep it.) Anyway, Are there any differences in the pin diagram for the revel amp output for the standard vs the hybrid, or are they identical?

just replaced the 12 v battery and engine running rough and wont stay running did ineed to reset anything or do anything else after the battery replacement?it was fine the night before when i shut it down

I also suffered this. My 2020, which was 5 months outside of it's OEM warranty and within the Certified Pre Owned warranty had it happen one day on the way home. Made a horrible noise, then stopped the roof from opening. Ford won't cover it on the Lincoln Certified preowned warranty they love to charge you so much for. The dealer quoted me $1200 for the part (which is more than MSRP) and $2800 in labor to replace it. I told them they were crazy. The car has 24,000 miles on it. Needless to say, Lincoln lost my future business. Not that they have anything left I'd want only selling SUVs. The worst part is that it is a well known issue among those of us who use online forums but Ford claims it never happens. Funny never and all these people posting about it don't match up. Cadillac, here I come.

Hello, I'm looking for a good condition 2019 or 2020. Black on black mkz hybrid with low mileage and no wrecks. Anyone?

My 2016 MKX has been in the shop since September. Something draining the battery and they could not figure out what it was. After I called the Lincoln corporate office in Michigan and filed a complaint, they finally discovered it was the TCU. But now they say the part is obsolete they cannot get a new one and they cannot use a used part because the TCU is connected to the VIN number of the car. From what I am reading on this thread it sounds like they are lying to me. Is this something they're just not going to fix because it fit into the CPO warranty rules? The car is beautiful,I want it back, I don't know what to do. It sounds like my only option is going to be to take it out of the shop and to a private mechanic and pay for the repair? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated thank you