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Powertrain Error Message after Trans Oil Cooler
drolds1 replied to MKZ Hybrid's topic in Lincoln MKZ Hybrid Owners
Thanks for updating us. Any damage to the CVT? You were smart not to keep driving it. -
Powertrain Error Message after Trans Oil Cooler
drolds1 replied to MKZ Hybrid's topic in Lincoln MKZ Hybrid Owners
Thanks for updating us. Any damage to the CVT? You were smart not to keep driving it. -
Huck joined the community
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Hybrid Battery drained while in shop and now w/low MPG
Help My Hybrid replied to Help My Hybrid's topic in Lincoln MKZ Hybrid Owners
I wanted to update anyone who may have a similar issue with low gas mileage after the car sits for an extended period. With drive time this past 6 weeks my MPG improved to their normal ranges. -
Powertrain Error Message after Trans Oil Cooler
Help My Hybrid replied to MKZ Hybrid's topic in Lincoln MKZ Hybrid Owners
Follow up to let anyone who might care to know what the issue was with this warning: When the body shop replaced my trans oil cooler they failed to add transmission fluid. The car had to be towed to the dealership to diagnose this issue. I looked at my invoice from the body shop and they even had the nerve to charge my insurance company for not just the trans oil cooler but for draining the existing transmission fluid and replacing the fluid. But there was no actual transmission fluid in the reservoir after they changed that part. The body shop could not figure this out. Such a simple thing. -
I have a 2013 MKZ w/ the THX sound system. I have a pair of 12 inch Kickers in a box sitting in my closet. Should I run power to an amp and install the extra subwoofers? Will I have to remove the factory subwoofers? Will it throw the whole system into chaos? Will the world end? Or will I just merely relieve my 1999 days of bumping around town?
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JShayParlay joined the community
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Hybrid Inverter Control Module 2018 MKZ
whiskeyhotelpapa posted a topic in Lincoln MKZ Hybrid Owners
2018 MKZ Hybrid Inverter Control Module location - Earlier
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Also posted in the Gas Door thread. Answer for future readers. On my 2016 MKZ, production date 11/15, the hinge pin does NOT look like the picture above by jmcgliss. Mine is a small diameter keyed plastic pin that presses into a plastic sleeve with blind end. So there is nothing you can put a cotter pin into. Fortunately my pin had backed out part way but was not broken. As far as removing the pocket assembly from the car: 1. Take out the wheel and fender liner, remove torx screw holding fuel pipe. You need the pipe loose. 2. Cut slits where there are little marks molded into the flange of the pocket. There are 4. I only needed to cut the upper and lower rear ones. Like shown on this Edge video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NYxonwPwLks Then pry with 2 small screwdrivers as shown in that video. Once it pops out at the back, you can use plastic pry bars like in my previous post. You may or may not crack the plastic when doing this. I cracked only one spot, not too bad and chose to reuse the pocket. This is clearly Ford's intention for removal. It's also shown in a factory manual for another Lincoln product. In that factory manual they do say it will be damaged and needs to be replaced. With care and luck you may be able to save it. I did. 3. Tape all adjacent painted surfaces so you don't scratch them. From the back side, release the large rubber surround from the surrounding sheetmetal. Then carefully wiggle the pocket around to free it from the filler pipe and slide it out. There is barely enough room and you may have to tinker around a bit. 4. If your hinge pin is like mine and has backed out, remove it completely by gently wiggling it as you pull it out by hand. Mark the clocking of the slot in the receiving sleeve as it's harder to see later. Then press the pin back in using a clamp. A Bessey DuoKlamp or similar one-handed clamp is ideal for this. Use it gently. Mine took a bit of force to press back in so will probably be fine for a long time. Clearly if yours is loose going in you may want to put some superglue on it or something so it doesn't back out again. 5. Reassemble in reverse order. Sorry no pictures.
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Answer for future readers. On my 2016 MKZ, production date 11/15, the hinge pin does NOT look like the picture above by jmcgliss. Mine is a small diameter keyed plastic pin that presses into a plastic sleeve with blind end. So there is nothing you can put a cotter pin into. Fortunately my pin had backed out part way but was not broken. As far as removing the pocket assembly from the car: 1. Take out the wheel and fender liner, remove torx screw holding fuel pipe. You need the pipe loose. 2. Cut slits where there are little marks molded into the flange of the pocket. There are 4. I only needed to cut the upper and lower rear ones. Like shown on this Edge video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NYxonwPwLks Then pry with 2 small screwdrivers as shown in that video. Once it pops out at the back, you can use plastic pry bars like in my previous post. You may or may not crack the plastic when doing this. I cracked only one spot, not too bad and chose to reuse the pocket. This is clearly Ford's intention for removal. It's also shown in a factory manual for another Lincoln product. In that factory manual they do say it will be damaged and needs to be replaced. With care and luck you may be able to save it. I did. 3. Tape all adjacent painted surfaces so you don't scratch them. From the back side, release the large rubber surround from the surrounding sheetmetal. Then carefully wiggle the pocket around to free it from the filler pipe and slide it out. There is barely enough room and you may have to tinker around a bit. 4. If your hinge pin is like mine and has backed out, remove it completely by gently wiggling it as you pull it out by hand. Mark the clocking of the slot in the receiving sleeve as it's harder to see later. Then press the pin back in using a clamp. A Bessey DuoKlamp or similar one-handed clamp is ideal for this. Use it gently. Mine took a bit of force to press back in so will probably be fine for a long time. Clearly if yours is loose going in you may want to put some superglue on it or something so it doesn't back out again. 5. Reassemble in reverse order. Sorry no pictures.
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Hi ajschicago, Did you end up getting a bicycle carrier? If you did, which one and how well did it perform? Or if anyone else on the forum has some real world experiences on their MKZ with a bike carrier, please do tell! Thanks.
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Hey guys, I need to fix the gas door on my 2016 MKZ. I took off the inner fender and l loosened the pipe, etc. I cannot seem to be able to get a nylon pry bar under the lip of the door pocket, as it's recessed. Can someone (who has done this) tell me what kind of plastic pry bars they used and how they were able to get it in there? This is the tool I tried and it didn't work:
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2016 MKZ Does anyone know how to remove the fuel door assembly? I do understand it pops in and needs to be pried out, but I need a video or hints on how exactly to pry it without damaging the surrounding paint. Thx
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Hi skipkern and welcome to the Lincoln MKZ Forum. Sorry to hear about the difficulty you are having exiting your MKZ. Unfortunately, other than raising the seat as high as comfortable, there is not much that can be done. You can only go so much larger in sidewall ratio/overall tire diameter in order to "raise" the vehicle, before the increased diameter would no longer fit without rubbing on the fender or suspension. And any benefit you would get before rubbing would occur will not be worth the cost of new tires (in my opinion). While I am sure this is not what you wish to do, but if it gets too difficult to exit your MKZ, selling it and purchasing a CUV with a higher seat hip-point would probably be the best course of action. I am sure others will have more advice to offer, so keep us updated and good luck. 🍻
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I have a 2015 Lincoln MKZ and over the years I am finding that it has become harder to get out of the car, I am now 80 yrs old and I am asking if anyone has any suggestions on how to raise the level or height of the car from the ground, I was thinking maybe tire size would raise the car higher. I may seem line a silly question but when the knees go it's a problem. Thanks for any help
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skipkern joined the community
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2.0 Ecoboost JLT Catch Can = Stinkin' Lincoln
TomV replied to TomV's topic in General Engine, Powertrain & Transmission
Update, I finally got tired of the oil smell and yanked the can. I put a new factory PCV plate that comes with the plastic hose. While removing the can, I noticed the carbon buildup on the valves looked a little worse than I remembered, so I'm not sure the can was even working that well to begin with. -
Revel 14-speaker system subwoofer upgrade
MillenniumRider replied to TomV's topic in Audio, Navigation and SYNC
Power feed directly from battery, fed through 2 farad cap to smooth out any high amperage draw from the add in amp. Now, I was doing some spec searching, I had this amp hooked to the sony amp in the Taurus as I mentioned before with no issues. I was looking at the speaker level input spec and it is rated at a max of 16Vrms. I wonder if I am clipping the input to the add in amp with the factory amp. But again, it is really strange because it is only certain content that I can replicate this issue with, most music and all the test tones played perfectly fine. I am going to put the multimeter on the factory amp outputs and see what I am getting voltage wise off the amp at louder output levels. But I am hesitant to throw more $$$ at this issue just to find out in the end that the DSP is ultimately altering the output signal to protect what it thinks are the factory drivers hooked to the subwoofer channels of the amplifier. I did have both the factory drivers connected along with the feeds to the amp and was having the exact same issue, however I disconnected them because they bottom out so easily with some content. You mentioned in an earlier post wanting to possibly add a fix82 DSP to the factory amp of your system due to low end rolloff, was this something heavily noticeable? Were there any other factors that led you to wanting such a device in the signal chain? Edit:: So, I went out and stuck the meter on the factory speaker outputs for the subs. I got a peak of 14.5v with it turned up to a near uncomfortable volume. Not exceeding the specs of the amplifier. I again connect the factory subs to double check if it changed anything, no change. In doing all of this, I noticed the add on sub cone moving back and forth by a small amount, with the volume turned down to zero, weird. Disconnect the sub and check the factory driver to see if they do the same thing. No...... Odd..... I connect a laptop to the audio inputs on the add on amp instead of the car feed, and jump the remote lead to turn it on manually, sub comes on, kicks hard and goes into protect, then cycles and does the same thing..... I'm going to settle on the amp being shot, which is weird because it worked when it was removed from the old car, it sat in the basement for a couple years untouched, but whatever I suppose, none of this behaves as I would expect, because I can hook the thing back to the high level inputs and it wont go into protect. I don't want to throw anymore time or money at this so I think it is getting left with the lousy factory subs at this point. Thank you for your response Tom, if you have any other insight or something I missed feel free to reply. -
Hi Art. Happy to hear you were able to receive some compensation from Lincoln. Lincoln Concierge has been very generous to me over the course of the 5 years I have owned my 2018 MKZ. 🤗 Good luck! 🍻
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Update: Lincoln has decided to cover 2 monthly payments for my inconvenience. I think that's generous. It proves the old adage that if you don't ask, you don't get. They promised me a debit card in 3-5 business days from last Saturday, 5/6. I haven't received it yet. I hope I don't have to contact them again.
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Revel 14-speaker system subwoofer upgrade
TomV replied to TomV's topic in Audio, Navigation and SYNC
Connecting to the factory 6x9 subs works perfectly fine in my car and I don't get any cut out and can run full volume. Now I left my 6x9's hooked up, perhaps your factory amp is going into a protection mode because of no load on the factory subs? Also, depending on the size and where you connected your aftermarket amplifier, perhaps your starving the factory amp of voltage/current. -
Revel 14-speaker system subwoofer upgrade
MillenniumRider replied to TomV's topic in Audio, Navigation and SYNC
Afternoon everyone, I am currently messing around with a subwoofer install in a 2019 MKZ with 20sp Revel system. Everything works great for the most part, if I play very heavy bass material I am getting near complete attenuation of the signal coming out of the factory amplifier. If I play other music it will work just fine. It appears as if the factory system is rolling off very sharply especially at low frequency when played at high volume. At first I figured the ANC was trying to attenuate the bass frequencies it wasn't expecting so I disabled the ANC in the DSP, but am still getting the low frequency rolloff. Anything below 11/12 on the volume dial plays perfectly, as soon as I creep above 12 I begin to lose almost all output from the add on sub. This does not occur on every type of source material, and most of what I play works just fine. Factory 6x9 subs have been disconnected and those feeds are going to the aftermarket sub. Tom, I see you somehow have way more knowledge of the DSP in the car and the wiring etc. Is there a better source for the audio feed than grabbing the high level output from the rear deck 6x9's? I had this same setup in a 2018 SHO with the sony system and had absolutely zero issues. I see you mentioned adding an add on DSP for low end roll off, are you experiencing something similar in your setup? Edit: So now I am totally confused, I went outside with a tone generator and swept the system in the car from 20-80 with absolutely no noticeable attenuation present. No cutoff at a certain volume point, within reason, didn't want to damage the factory drivers. But the sub bass frequencies I had it at 16-18 volume and all was perfectly fine. I can play most source material just fine, but if I throw dubstep or any very heavy bass material at the system it hard attenuates the bass above volume 12. I want to believe it is the DSP attenuating the output, but why doesn't it happen with the test tones then?!?!?!? -
2017 MKZ main blend door is broke again and not under warrenty, does anyone know where this is located? Have dug online for hours to no avail Both driver and passenger side will not blow air colder than outside even with AC on. Thanks!
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Just got a 2012 MKZ from my father, the front vertical tilt on the driver power seat is not working, I can hear the motor, but the jack screw is not turning to raise and lower the seat, I am assuming the gear is broken. Has anyone experienced this issue and if so, is the gear able to be replaced on its own? Or is there an option to manually turn the jack screw to get the seat to the lowest position? Any info will be much appreciated! Thanks! Attached is a pic of where the gear housing is attached to the jack screw.
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I have no idea where to put this post. Anyway, I found this near my car, in my garage, near the trunk on the passenger side, although I doubt that means anything. It's 13 mm head and is almost 1/2 long. Since my car is the only one in the garage it had to have fallen off from it. Where the heck would I start to look where it may have fallen off? Suggestions?
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Glad it worked out.
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Thanks for the help, I took it off today with not much issue. I think I figured out the problem why the glue was becoming exposed. Earlier this year I had the local Lincoln dealer do some airbag recalls and I think they used some extra glue when they were reapplying the trim piece. I took it off and there were just gobs of what looked like guerrilla glue everywhere, way too much.
