Jump to content
   

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Last week
  2. Scott

    Hard shift 1-2

    Today, I had a "bang" shift from 2-1. The problem is that it doesn't always happen, so the chances of my taking a tech out for a drive to recreate it are slim.
  3. Blackhawk

    Devin's 2017 MKZ

    🤣 There are a bunch of Ecoboost guys in the area, There is a meetup at Great Lakes Dragway Apr 8th set up on Facebook. Right now I have a tune from Torrie, GFB, and Steeda intake, hope to get an IC and possibly the upgraded XDI HPFP by that time.
  4. kramf411

    Hard shift 1-2

    May I add, my previous Fusion - aside from the hard shifting that had been fixed, I also encountered the "bang / slam" phenomena under the same condition. FWIW, I just got my MKZ from a garage after a Transmission and PTU fluid exchanges yesterday. I drove to work today and was trying to replicate the same phenomena. Much as I tried - and if I am being very an*l about it - I think all I had was a faint (very faint) nudge, no "bang/slam" at all, more like feeling a just a regular gear change. Now, it was only a 3-4 mile drive. I will try to observe the vehicle's behavior as days goes by and report back.
  5. drolds1

    Hard shift 1-2

    I get a bang shift if I get off the throttle in the midst of a low-speed gear change also. But that has happened in every car I've driven in the modern era equipped with an electronically controlled transmission.
  6. Mopar_dude

    Hard shift 1-2

    Exactly the same for me..as well as 2-1 feeling like I'm being rear-ended and I believe it's 2-3 or 3-4 there's about a second or so delay between shifts where it revs but no power and then it kicks in.
  7. Scott

    Hard shift 1-2

    "For me, it ONLY happens during light acceleration AND while I happen to release the gas pedal before a change in gear completes." That is exactly what mine is doing!
  8. kramf411

    Hard shift 1-2

    Seems like there are two different issues mentioned here. I do not have the 1-2 hard shift on my MKZ but I did have the same issue on my previous 2014 Fusion + harsh shift in reverse. Copy/Paste from the Fusion repair paperwork. Not sure if it can be something useful with the OP's issues. Concern: Customer states when shifting from park to reverse feels like the vehicle is jerking. There is also delay when shifting gears. Cause: Verify shift concern into REV Check OASIS FOUND SSM 45736 INSTALL IDS FOR SIFT SOL NUMBERS Correction: Remove Valve Body, Replace SSB and SSD and TCC Shift solenoid Reinstall valve body, Refill trans fluid Road test, Return to customer I have to say, though, after the fix, that during the first two days, the vehicle was shifting hard - no delay, and no issue of jerking while shifting to reverse. On the third day, it's all shifting smoothly. Hope this helps. I do have "slam" and I can replicate it almost every time. For me, it ONLY happens during light acceleration AND while I happen to release the gas pedal before a change in gear completes.
  9. Scott

    Hard shift 1-2

    For mine, I think all they did is check the trans fluid level. They did take it for a test drive, but I also had them checking a rattle. They probably blew off the whole clunking from 1st to 2nd. I will have to take it back in just for that issue, I suppose.
  10. DeviLSh

    Devin's 2017 MKZ

    Did we just become best friends?
  11. Mopar_dude

    Hard shift 1-2

    Definitely experiencing the same deal. Was there any resolution?
  12. Blackhawk

    Hard shift 1-2

    I've had the same 1-2 slam with light acceleration and a couple other folks I've talked to mentioned it as well. Hopefully they find something.
  13. Blackhawk

    Devin's 2017 MKZ

    Damn just noticed you scooped the IC up off the fusion sport forums, I made an offer on it but he said he was already dealing with someone. I have a magnetic gray 2017 drivers package as well, cant wait to see how the wheels look as I was thinking for going with darker wheels as well.
  14. drolds1

    Seat warmer/hvac won't turn on with autostart

    Were you able to actually select 'AUTO' from the menu or was it greyed out? This has been an issue with Fusions and MKZs in the past. Module reprogramming may be necessary. See this thread. It's always a good idea to search through the forums to see if a similar issue to yours has come up before.
  15. drolds1

    Hard shift 1-2

    Definitely not normal. Mine is butter smooth. If anything, some of us has complained that the shifts are not firm enough with the 3.0. If they claim it's normal, ask to drive another one and compare. There was a TSB for hard 2-3 shifts and "bump" on downshifts with the 6F50/55 but that was years ago. Ask to speak directly with the service manager.
  16. Mopar_dude

    Hard shift 1-2

    It happens on casual to moderate acceleration for me.
  17. Scott

    Seat warmer/hvac won't turn on with autostart

    The first time I used mine this year, the cooled seats came on! I turned the whole system off and then back on, and it has worked fine since.
  18. Blackhawk

    Devin's 2017 MKZ

    Looks good, I plan on putting one on this spring. I am in the Chicago area as well near Arlington heights. Sunday was a really nice day out.
  19. So I recently purchased 2017 MKZ 3.0, live in the Toronto area so starting to get into the cold mornings and nights. When I use autostart or Lincoln Way app, my seat warmers don't turn on and my defrost doesn't either. I've checked to make sure settings are on auto but still nothing. Am I missing something simple? It's going in this week and I'll be letting them know amongst other things. Still under warranty. Thanks
  20. DeviLSh

    Devin's 2017 MKZ

    Darkstar/UP FMIC officially installed. Took me about 6-7 hours (alone) on Sunday night to get this done. Used the fusion DIY as a guide, along with some tips from Zalvern via PM. (thanks again!) My MKZ does NOT have adaptive cruise, so its unclear if this would be possible on a car that does, the active grill shutters were retained, just cannot run the lower bolt on the wishbone bracket as it would rub the fins of the new thicker FMIC core. Driving impressions so far are great - car no longer starts to "give up" on a long pull, and back to back pulls feel the same, no more one-trick pony. Granted - it is cold right now in Chicago, so ambient temps are helping things. But my god this car rips..... I am somewhat perplexed in how a tune will make it even stronger. (and slightly nervous!) For anyone looking to do this, the job requires bumper removal. So a light walk through of that: 1) Jack up car, remove front wheels 2) Remove lower belly pan hardware - series of 20 or so 10mm bolts and 7mm screws 3) Remove fender liners. You can do just the front portion and hold them back to access bumper hardware 4) Undo 4 8mm bolts that secure bumper to fender, hard to reach but no swivel needed 5) Remove radiator panel and upper grill hardware (10mm bolts here too) 6) Remove 3 more 7mm screws and phillips fender light screws on each side 7) Unclip DRL harnesses, main BUS connector near trans cooler, and grill shutter harness 8 ) "pop" bumper off clips, grab a friend and unclip wiring pins. 9) Once the bumper is off, you can remove the active-grill-shutters. A series of 10mm bolts around the perimeter secure it to the car, and three 8mm bolts keep the rear wishbone bracket attached to the front shutters. This is probably the most "difficult" or tedious part honestly. 10) After this, you have full access to the stock core, it attaches to the car with three bolts, and rests on a bracket. Undo hose clamps and "Massage" the core out. Be careful to not bend the passenger side A/C line that is near the MAP sensor. Pic of stock core before removal.: Picture of said wishbone bracket and where it attaches to the grill shutters - NOTE, position this behind the crash bar BEFORE you mount new core - much easier than forcing it in after the new core is mounted Some comparison pics of stock vs UP's core. (garret version). Stock is 6lbs, UP's is 18lbs. Substantially larger, and the fins are more dense. Fitment to show AC line fitment, and my anti rattle solution 😉 Install the MAP, and hose clamps, make sure its all tight and good! Re-Install grill shutters, see close up of no bottom bolt due to tight tolerance. (this part still clips in, so low risk of separation. Unused parts after install include: 1 - Lower bolt for AGS and two lower bolts that secured bottom panel cover to grill shutter 2 - Side "flaps". I trimmed these to still use them up top, but there was no room for these air seals on the sides of the radiator between FMIC and rad core 3 - Lower radiator cover. You can still attach the bumper belly pan though, so not a huge deal. Looking forward to being "tune ready" now with the air and temp management being under control. Let me know if there is anything else I can answer! Final note - watch when reinstalling the grill shutters as there is some wiring by the passenger side headlight that can get pinched. after install I noticed my hood ajar light is on, and the hood is definitely shut... so I think i need to double check the wiring and see if something got accidentally cut.
  21. Mopar_dude

    MKZ Seat movement/noise (TSB)

    Same issue, usually on right turns. It's going in this week, along with other issues
  22. Smokestone10

    Left home in the Lincoln, and came back with three more.

    My latest acquisition- an original '62 Continental dealer promo. It's a tad dirty and has been repainted but I nabbed it for about 30 bucks... roughly one tenth of what I've seen pristine examples go for. So no guilt at all about treating this one to a rebuild.
  23. Scott

    Hard shift 1-2

    Mine does the same thing - 2017 3.0 AWD. It seems to be the worst shifting from 1-2 and not accelerating. Sometimes it is so bad that my wife jumps. I had it into the dealer and they said it was normal. I will be very interested to hear how yours turns out. I have been thinking about going to another Lincoln dealer, but the next closest one is a ways away. Good Luck!
  24. TomV

    Michelin Ice Xi3 update

    My commute to work is about 35 miles each way. Mainly highway and I've been driving this route for 22 years. I've driven about 100 miles on the Michelin Ice Xi3 tires since mounting. They are smooth and quiet at city speeds.Definitely softer than the factory all seasons... but that's to be expected. I might even change my suspension mode from Comfortable to Normal since the side walls are more compliant. Highway speeds seem a bit nosier than I hoped, but not excessive. The first generation of Michelin Ice X tires I had on my Ford Fusion were extremely quiet and lasted 8 winters. Probably the best tires I ever owned for what they were designed for. It rained fairly heavy yesterday and I felt very confident driving with the Ice Xi3 . I never look forward to snow travel, but I'm curious to how well they perform. I heard the MKz does well in the snow with all season tires, so I'll report back after my first experience.
  25. Mopar_dude

    Hard shift 1-2

    Thanks for the reply. I'll have to book it in this week
  26. Hi joswald. Providing some information about your vehicle may help. Model year, mileage, do you have the Easy Entry/Exit featured enabled, when the problem began as opposed to how long you have owned it, still within the 4 year/50,000 mile Bumper to Bumper Warranty, etc? Also, to those who are of the more impatient type: There is a slight pause after pushing the memory button before the seats begin to move on my 2018 MKZ, as opposed to my 2007 MKZ, which begin moving immediately. Get back to us with the information asked for above and good luck.
  1. Load more activity
×