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Jakevandee

Changing speakers in 11 speaker model

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Hi, I have the 2016 mkz with the 11 speaker (base), and I found out the rear speaker amp is just for the rear deck speakers and it is a monoblock amp. The speakers are also 2ohms so if I swap them out and from the amp connect leads to a subwoofer would it work? Could anything really go wrong if I try it. 

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22 hours ago, Jakevandee said:

Hi, I have the 2016 mkz with the 11 speaker (base), and I found out the rear speaker amp is just for the rear deck speakers and it is a monoblock amp. The speakers are also 2ohms so if I swap them out and from the amp connect leads to a subwoofer would it work? Could anything really go wrong if I try it. 

Hello, Jakevandee what size subwoofers.

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If I just hooked the amp up to a 12 inch subwoofer.

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I have the same system and I really don't think it will move the subwoofer.

The way I did mine was to connect a high low converter on the rear deck wires and connect an aftermarket amp.

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Id assume the amp is at least 200 watts. And if it’s the same bass level as the stock ones that’s fine it’s just they don’t have very good dynamics and really fall off around 40 hz which is where the bass notes in my music tend to be. 

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Do you have a wiring diagram for the stock amplifier?

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Yes, I do but I moved to a new hose and most of my stuff is still boxed and stacked so I really don't know where they're at now.

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Do you know how many watts the amp is or any of the specs other than it is a mono block and 2 ohms?

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22 hours ago, Jakevandee said:

Do you know how many watts the amp is or any of the specs other than it is a mono block and 2 ohms?

The OEM amp is 700 watts total for all speakers.

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No, the amp that’s just for the rear deck speakers I’m talking about

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On 7/5/2019 at 10:16 PM, Jakevandee said:

No, the amp that’s just for the rear deck speakers I’m talking about

No, but I will try to find out and let you know.

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I finished my project and since there is very little information on installing a subwoofer online I’ll share some information. First I started with a little $8 kit from amazon of panel poppers and a tool to take out what I think they are called “popits” and since there were very many to take out in the process this helped a lot. I started by taking the drivers side door areas and under the seal that keeps the water from coming in I came in with the panel poppers and you have to be a little rough to get the panels to pop out, I then found an area to go through in the firewall which is the hood release cable, do not cut it because it is about 1-2 inches long so you have to push it out to get the power wire through.(start from the inside of the cabin and push into the engine because the hole cannot be seen from the engine bay). Next I tucked the power wire in the carpet which worked great and I removed the rear seat and a little flat panel right next to it and that had great area to cable manage. I kept the excess under the floor by the spare tire. Next for signal I bought the Metra 72-5601 to plug directly into the rear deck 6x9 speakers for signal and shipped the ends off to the bare speaker wire and ran some speaker wire to a low output converter with a 12 volt amp turn on and the ground I got from under the rear seat which comes out with 2 little plastic pins that you push to the side and the rear seat comes right out. I tried to do the remote wire to the little fuse box by the pedals but after trying about 5 I realized the fuses have power on all of the time. I used some stronger double sided tape to hold down the low output converter and my amp by the spare tire area as well to keep my trunk tidy. And lastly for the bass knob I ran it by the power wire then under my seat. (Sorry I’m not the best at writing guides but if you have any questions feel free to ask here).

Edited by Jakevandee

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