Jump to content
   
Sign in to follow this  
LONMON

3.0T AWD CPE REAR MOUNT

Recommended Posts

   Just a little info on install of the CPE rear mount for any of you that are looking for more performance. Once you have tuned the car you will notice that there is considerable movement of the engine when accelerating hard and some wheel hop from the front wheels. The CPE mount upgrade for the lower rear dogbone style mount helps a good bit with that excessive engine movement. I will also say that it adds a fair amount of vibration that you can feel in the steering wheel, your feet, and butt. Its not that bad when above idle (noticeable but very livable) but at idle when stopped it is a bit excessive. Especially for a nice luxury car. The easiest way to make this upgrade less annoying is to have the tune adjusted to raise the idle 200 rpm. The stock idle warmed up in drive is about 600-700 rpm. By adding 200 rpm in the tune is sits about 800-900 rpm and takes almost all of the excessive vibration out of the steering wheel. Now I can drive the car every day and after a little break in and getting used to it I barely notice it anymore. The car responds much better to quick and hard throttle inputs and also wheel hops much less when hammering it from a stop.

  Another issue I had was during the install. It should have been very easy with only 2 bolts to remove to replace it. However, when I went to remove the main subframe bolt (the 21mm pointed toward the ground) it did not want to budge. I had already taken the other bolt out to release the tension from the mount but the main bolt would not loosen with an impact gun. Even using special inertia sockets to give it extra oomph. I finally had to use a very large breaker bar and it ended up snapping off inside the mount. I then spent an hour air hammering the mount out of the way, heating the subframe around the broken off bolt, and extracting it with an extractor socket. I then found a suitable replacement bolt and could install the CPE mount. Just wanted to give people a heads up about this possible issue since I expected it to be much easier and straight forward. I am a tech with my own shop and have installed countless mounts like this with no issue like this before. So if you go to install this mount and have trouble getting that main bolt out, make sure you are ready to deal with this before continuing so you are not stuck with a disabled vehicle. Good luck and hope that more of us are modding this luxury car with such awesome potential! I personally have plans on moving on to lighter wheels, an intercooler upgrade, and some down pipes at some point in the future!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
   

Yes, that main subframe bolt was the most challenging part to make an otherwise, easy part change more difficult. I ended up taking mine to shop to finish the install with darkstar's engine mount. The mechanics ended up using the breaker bar because the impact gun was failing to make it even budge without strong arming it. Bolt did not break or anything though.

I don't know how different the CPE mount is per say, but with darkstar's engine mount I did not feel the need to adjust the idle rpm as the vibration increase was really sutble. You had to concentrate on the steering wheel just to feel it. It was a great piece to reduce some wheel hop. Never did get to try the transmission mount which should of taking it to the next stage.

Given how challenging that bolt was, I did not bother to retrieve the engine mount after my MKZ was totaled. I just let it go.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×