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I have a Lincoln 2014 MKZ.  Woke up one morning and the car was completely dead . I jumpstarted the car and noticed I could not open the trunk. I can’t open the trunk from the panel in the car or the FOB or the button on the outside. I have to crawl through the back of the truck and use the kidnap latch to open it. I didn’t do anything and let the car sit overnight again and the battery was dead again. I went to AutoZone and they tested the battery and the alternator and they both passed.  They also replaced the trunk relay fuse number 80. They  disconnected the trunk motor because they claim it looked to be jammed they also disconnected the light in the trunk.  I let the car sit overnight again and it was still dead the next morning.  Dealership says they don’t know what the issue could be I have to leave it with them for a few days. Any ideas as to what the problem could be I found a new trunk motor online that I was going to replace but dealership says this is not draining my battery because it was disconnected.To my knowledge everything else works in the car. I am getting a drive control malfunction service required but I have had that for months and the car does not drive any different. Any ideas?

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10 hours ago, Lavelda said:

I have a Lincoln 2014 MKZ.  Woke up one morning and the car was completely dead . I jumpstarted the car and noticed I could not open the trunk. I can’t open the trunk from the panel in the car or the FOB or the button on the outside. I have to crawl through the back of the truck and use the kidnap latch to open it. I didn’t do anything and let the car sit overnight again and the battery was dead again. I went to AutoZone and they tested the battery and the alternator and they both passed.  They also replaced the trunk relay fuse number 80. They  disconnected the trunk motor because they claim it looked to be jammed they also disconnected the light in the trunk.  I let the car sit overnight again and it was still dead the next morning.  Dealership says they don’t know what the issue could be I have to leave it with them for a few days. Any ideas as to what the problem could be I found a new trunk motor online that I was going to replace but dealership says this is not draining my battery because it was disconnected.To my knowledge everything else works in the car. I am getting a drive control malfunction service required but I have had that for months and the car does not drive any different. Any ideas?

HI Lavelda.  Sorry to hear you are having issues, and sorry for sounding like a broken record with what I am about to ask...but is your car still within the 4 year/50,000 mile Bumper to Bumper Warranty period (or any extended service plan)? If it is still under warranty, bring it in for a proper diagnosis and repair. No sense throwing parts at the problem, at your own cost, if the car is still under warranty. Also, have them properly load test the battery (they probably will anyway) and replace if necessary.  I don't know how AutoZone tested the battery, but batteries can not just be checked like they were in the old days.

Until one of our tech minded members may jump in, here are my non-professional thoughts on the issue: If the trunk motor was completely disconnected and the battery still drained, the Dealer is probably correct that the motor would not be the cause of the battery drain. Also, if the #80 fuse had blown, you likely have some sort of electrical issue in that circuit. Look in your Owners Manual Index under fuses and take a look at the fuse diagrams.  What does the #80 fuse control? Anything besides the trunk relay?

If your car is still under Warranty, have them look at it when you bring it in for the drive control issue.  If not, you can try replacing the motor.  It may fix the issue, or it may just be throwing parts at the problem. And that can become more expensive, and frustrating, than having the problem diagnosed and fixed correctly.

Let us know how you make out and good luck.

EDIT - And recheck that #80 fuse to see if it blew again.

Edited by bbf2530

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Hello  Lavelda and welcome to the forum.  Relating to the battery sometime even if the battery passes the test it still may have some problem. Is the battery the original or is it a replacement that recently got put in. If it is the original one I would just start from there and replace it or if you recently replaced the battery it should have some warranty.

Who knows maybe by replacing the battery the trunk may fix it self.

Hope you can find a fix to your problem.

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9 hours ago, Lavelda said:

I have a Lincoln 2014 MKZ.  Woke up one morning and the car was completely dead . I jumpstarted the car and noticed I could not open the trunk. I can’t open the trunk from the panel in the car or the FOB or the button on the outside. I have to crawl through the back of the truck and use the kidnap latch to open it. I didn’t do anything and let the car sit overnight again and the battery was dead again. I went to AutoZone and they tested the battery and the alternator and they both passed.  They also replaced the trunk relay fuse number 80. They  disconnected the trunk motor because they claim it looked to be jammed they also disconnected the light in the trunk.  I let the car sit overnight again and it was still dead the next morning.  Dealership says they don’t know what the issue could be I have to leave it with them for a few days. Any ideas as to what the problem could be I found a new trunk motor online that I was going to replace but dealership says this is not draining my battery because it was disconnected.To my knowledge everything else works in the car. I am getting a drive control malfunction service required but I have had that for months and the car does not drive any different. Any ideas?

what makes you think the battery drain is from the trunk? It could be anywhere. I disconnect the negative and then do a slight touch to the terminal to see if there is spark (battery drain). Turn off things, lights, map lights etc and see if the spark goes away. you have then found your drain

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12 hours ago, etrain said:

what makes you think the battery drain is from the trunk? It could be anywhere. I disconnect the negative and then do a slight touch to the terminal to see if there is spark (battery drain). Turn off things, lights, map lights etc and see if the spark goes away. you have then found your drain

There is always something "on" in your car, this would not be a proper test. A proper test would be to use a meter that reads current flow (amperes) and knowing what the nominal current flow is when the car is idle, then and only then could you troubleshoot the issue.

I also agree with izzy3906, I suspect the battery and if it is original, change it anyway. Many funky things start to happen due to a marginal battery.

Edited by R2D2

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Thanks Guys, So this is a battery that was replaced in 2016. 3 Mechanics/car folk have tested the battery and they say the battery is good. Car is out of warranty 56,000 miles. Now a few other things I found.

1. I remote started the car and it had a hard time turning over. When I got in the heated seats were turned on but were showing off on the actual setting. Same as for the air conditioner/heater. It was blowing but it was set to off.

2. when the car is off and everything appears to have turned off (lights, radio, etc) I hear a faint clicking sound around the steering wheel. (dash on driver's side)

3. the setting for DeckLid still won't enable.

Any ideas? also does anybody know what the BCM does?

Yes I understand that the trunk is not the issue.....but a symptom of it.

Edited by Lavelda

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6 hours ago, R2D2 said:

There is always something "on" in your car, this would not be a proper test. A proper test would be to use a meter that reads current flow (amperes) and knowing what the nominal current flow is when the car is idle, then and only then could you troubleshoot the issue.

I also agree with izzy3906, I suspect the battery and if it is original, change it anyway. Many funky things start to happen due to a marginal battery.

Yes, there is always something drawing power in you car but it should be negligible (a very small spark) I was assuming that the op did not have a dc ammeter and wanted a diy suggestion. If he had an ammeter, as I do, we could compare readings. A load tester would tell him if the battery is weak. Purposely leaving the headlights on for 30 mins would help him without cost. If the car won't start after 20 mins with light on, get a new one. From a forum its hard to know what level of competence someone has 

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Update 

i took car to dealership and they said the alternator was going bad and they think the trunk issue is related to this TSB below from Ford. Estimate is $1400. The bulk of this is to replace the alternator

the software flash for trunk maybe $100. I have been driving the car not letting it die and drove it nearly an hour to the dealership with no issue. DIY mechanics say they doubt its the alternatorAs I would have more issues than just the trunk. They say im a victim of upselling. Fyi my decklid still says disabled in the software and i can’t change it. What do you think? Advice       

09/22/15 Electrical and Air Conditioning NHTSA ID: 10058445
TSB ID: ASI-45124

Lincoln: on some vehicles, a recalibration of rear gate trunk module (rgtm) would correct the intermittent inoperative power decklid, bounce back condition or battery draw. model 2013-16 mkz.

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On 12/18/2018 at 4:53 AM, Lavelda said:

Update 

i took car to dealership and they said the alternator was going bad and they think the trunk issue is related to this TSB below from Ford. Estimate is $1400. The bulk of this is to replace the alternator

the software flash for trunk maybe $100. I have been driving the car not letting it die and drove it nearly an hour to the dealership with no issue. DIY mechanics say they doubt its the alternatorAs I would have more issues than just the trunk. They say im a victim of upselling. Fyi my decklid still says disabled in the software and i can’t change it. What do you think? Advice       

09/22/15 Electrical and Air Conditioning NHTSA ID: 10058445
TSB ID: ASI-45124

Lincoln: on some vehicles, a recalibration of rear gate trunk module (rgtm) would correct the intermittent inoperative power decklid, bounce back condition or battery draw. model 2013-16 mkz.

On the alternator the way I know if is bad or good is with the vehicle on disconect the negative side of the battery if the vehicle stays on it has a good alternator which means it is charging.

If the vehicle dies you have a bad alternator.

Edited by Izzy3906

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On 12/14/2018 at 4:36 AM, Lavelda said:

I have a Lincoln 2014 MKZ.  Woke up one morning and the car was completely dead . I jumpstarted the car and noticed I could not open the trunk. I can’t open the trunk from the panel in the car or the FOB or the button on the outside. I have to crawl through the back of the truck and use the kidnap latch to open it. I didn’t do anything and let the car sit overnight again and the battery was dead again. I went to AutoZone and they tested the battery and the alternator and they both passed.  They also replaced the trunk relay fuse number 80. They  disconnected the trunk motor because they claim it looked to be jammed they also disconnected the light in the trunk.  I let the car sit overnight again and it was still dead the next morning.  Dealership says they don’t know what the issue could be I have to leave it with them for a few days. Any ideas as to what the problem could be I found a new trunk motor online that I was going to replace but dealership says this is not draining my battery because it was disconnected.To my knowledge everything else works in the car. I am getting a drive control malfunction service required but I have had that for months and the car does not drive any different. Any ideas?

Was wondering if you have a short due to a coin or a metal piece stuck in somewhere.  For example a coin stuck in cigarette lighter slot.  I would check with multi-meter or have electrician check out common outlets to see if there is a short.

Edited by jm98

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The battery "died" today in my 2014 MKz. I bought the car new and had it for 4 years 9 months. It appears that four year is the life span.

To say that everything goes nuts when the battery is going is a understatement.

Edited by JoeBrown

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SORRY

UPDATE STATUS~~ Issue Resolved

As stated, my issue all started when I woke and tried to start the car the battery was dead. At the exact same time  I noticed my trunk would not open. Not from the outside button, FOB or panel  Even after getting a jump off still could not get in the trunk except for crawling through the back seat. Thought it was operator error but after having Autozone and other mechanics check battery and alternator saying they were ok but every 5 hours the car battery was dead. I took it to the dealership and they ran a full diagnostic said it was the alternator but "Oh yeah there is a TSB about the trunk" (see my 12/18/18 post for details) Well long story short, the software update did not fix the issue but the RGTM had to be replaced. I told the dealership don't touch the alternator, fix the trunk. The part and the labor was 250 (only after they charged me for $89 for the diagnostic and $50 for the software update🤨)  Well they fixed the trunk, I picked the car up on 12/20/18 no more dead battery since then. Big difference from $1400.  Soooo I am sure a basic car person could have fixed the issue except for the software update. although, not sure if I needed it in the first place with this issue. I was gonna fix it myself but for $300 I said nevermind but here is what I found on the part and where it is on the car........

part for the RGTM      DG9Z-14B291-F Control Module 2014 mkz

fa916a7d-9a85-4439-87af-65d389902212_tru

 

Good Luck!!

Lavelda

 

 

Edited by Lavelda

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Thank you for the update.  Glad it's resolved.

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