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Brennan

2017 MKZ 3.0 AWD Performance Brake Pads / Rotors / Lines / Fluid

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I'm in the process of upgrading the brakes of my 2017 MKZ 3.0 AWD Driver's Package now that I have upgraded the performance. I have searched for hours for compatible EBC Red Stuff, or similar performance pads, and have not had much luck identifying compatible part numbers. Does anyone know of compatible pads with our 13.5" rotors? And compatible rotor upgrades? SS Lines, etc?

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I've done more research and have ordered EBC Red Stuff part numbers:

Front: DP33072C   Rear DP32160C

And Steeda lines for the older Fusions, hoping they fit, part number: 555 6028

Also ordered upgraded rear sway bar, also hoping it will fit, part number: 555 1090

Will update once installed and 'opinioned'.

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Currently I am running stock brakes (345mm rotors) on my 2017 Lincoln MKZ 3.0 as I wait for my above parts to arrive.

I occasionally slow down from high speeds (220km/h down to 100km/h). First slowing is perfect with tons of brake power. But then all goes interesting on the second slowing (30 second cooldown, reacceleration to 220). On depressing the brake pedal, I immediately experience brake pedal pulsing and what feels like rotor warping, with lots of thumping sounds. But no fade. On the third slowing, louder thumping and major fade. Hardly any slowing power. 

As above, I have ordered and shortly plan to swap to Red Stuff pads to increase thermal stability at high temperatures, and increase pad aggressiveness at slower speeds as I have to depress the pedal quite a bit to gain any decent stopping power. I realize this may increase rotor/fluid temperatures even further. I plan to use the existing stock rotors as they are in great shape. I also am going to be installing the Steeda lines when I install the pads to reduce pedal squishiness, etc.

After going to this work, I could still run OEM fluid but am questioning myself.

My question is, has anyone run Motul RBF 600 in their MKZ? Any high speed gains on brake system temperature stability? Does anyone recommend against running RBF 600? Any other recommendations?

Any other tips or tricks for this situation?

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5 hours ago, Brennan said:

Currently I am running stock brakes (345mm rotors) on my 2017 Lincoln MKZ 3.0 as I wait for my above parts to arrive.

I occasionally slow down from high speeds (220km/h down to 100km/h). First slowing is perfect with tons of brake power. But then all goes interesting on the second slowing (30 second cooldown, reacceleration to 220). On depressing the brake pedal, I immediately experience brake pedal pulsing and what feels like rotor warping, with lots of thumping sounds. But no fade. On the third slowing, louder thumping and major fade. Hardly any slowing power. 

As above, I have ordered and shortly plan to swap to Red Stuff pads to increase thermal stability at high temperatures, and increase pad aggressiveness at slower speeds as I have to depress the pedal quite a bit to gain any decent stopping power. I realize this may increase rotor/fluid temperatures even further. I plan to use the existing stock rotors as they are in great shape. I also am going to be installing the Steeda lines when I install the pads to reduce pedal squishiness, etc.

After going to this work, I could still run OEM fluid but am questioning myself.

My question is, has anyone run Motul RBF 600 in their MKZ? Any high speed gains on brake system temperature stability? Does anyone recommend against running RBF 600? Any other recommendations?

Any other tips or tricks for this situation?

 

Hi Brennan. My only experience is with the stock braking system. However, I do have one recommendation: Check and re-torque all your lug nuts.

Improperly/unevenly torqued lug nuts can lead to warped rotors. Mine were not properly torqued when my car was delivered last month. While the specs are probably the same for the 2017/2018 model years, check your Owners Manual for the 2017 specs. My 2018 Owners Manual states 150 lb ft.

Keep us updated and good luck.

EDIT - PS - Just for informational purposes: We can check and re-torque our lug nuts without jacking up the car. If you have a torque wrench, just loosen and re-torque the lug nuts one at time, in the same star pattern as shown in the Owners Manual for changing the tire. It can be done in less than 5 minutes.

Edited by bbf2530
Additional information.

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So last Saturday I had some time and swapped the OEM rubber brake lines to the Steeda lines mentioned above. Seeing as I had to bleed the brakes, I flushed the OEM brake fluid with new Motul RBF600 fluid through each caliper's bleeder valve. Process is simple. I did some low speed braking to ensure everything was back to normal operation. No leaks.

Today I took the car out for some high speed runs. Braked from 200-100 km/h (120-60 mph) six times back to back. First stop was perfect. Second stop fine with a bit of thump. Third stop was fine again, same amount of thump. Fourth, fifth, and sixth stops were all fine, zero brake fade, but some small increase in brake thump. Full stopping power still... 

As I slowed from the sixth stop, I could smell hot brakes. 😁 I drove for a while to let them cool down to normal operating temperature. 

 

So there you have it. Fluid and lines to reduce the thumping and eliminate the fade. Never out-drive your #2017driverspackage MKZ brakes' thermal capacity again! 

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For what it's worth, the brakes on this car, with just those two mods, are insane. I hammered out 160 km/h to 60 km/h braking runs 9 times back to back at night, and stuck a GoPro on the driver's side front fender. The video shows the eighth hard brake application. Still no sign of brake fade... But those sparks are worrying as they could damage my rims.

If only the OEM brake rotors did not have backwards brake vent locations where the rotor intake is on the wheel side not the spindle side... Otherwise brake ducts could eliminate the sparks from excessive heat soak. New rotors? 😁

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