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DeviLSh

STEEDA Fusion/MKZ Rear Sway Bar - Review and DIY

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Fellow MKZ'ers,

 

I have purchased and installed the Steeda Performance Fusion/MKZ Sway bar onto my 2014 3.7awd MKZ. I took some images along the way to assist anyone else who may be interested in this suspension modification/upgrade. I would rate this job at about 4/10, it was fairly easy to do with basic tools and mechanical knowledge. I did it in about 45min, alone in the garage.

 

Part Details:

- The part was purchased from CD3performance, you may find it for $185 HERE (Price includes shipping)

- The bar is said to be 30% stiffer. It measures at roughly +2.0mm larger in O.D. compared to stock.

- The bar comes with poly bushings, lube (energy's proprietary lube), brackets, and instructions.

- Silver finish, welded ends, and welded/fixed collars for secure mounting.

 

post-2402-0-65350800-1494199945_thumb.jpg

 

post-2402-0-96474100-1494199945_thumb.jpg

 

Tools Needed:

 

post-2402-0-28807000-1494199924_thumb.jpg

 

- I used a 1/2" Drive ratchet with short extension

- Deep 13mm socket

- Ratcheting 18mm wrench

- 6mm allen

- PB Blaster

- Wheel ramps

 

1) Start by backing the car up onto ramps

 

post-2402-0-99238700-1494199902_thumb.jpg

 

2) Locate Stock RSB and use PBBlaster (or other penetrating lubricant) on the lower sway link hardware, and the OEM bracket hardware, and let sit for a few minutes.

 

3) **Be sure to take note of the orientation of the stock bar, and stock links.**

 

4) Loosen the lower rear-sway bar link nuts, pictured below, using the 18mm wrench. I find it is easier to break them loose using only the wrench first. Once it gets moving, then insert the 6mm allen as your counter-hold, and back the nut off the stud. This will help prevent you from accidentally stripping the internal hex of the stud if they are really seized up. After the nuts come off, wiggle the link of of the lower spring arm, and tuck the link up by the sway bar. Doing so keeps the entire unit for compact for the removal step.

 

post-2402-0-40380400-1494200205_thumb.jpg

 

5) Loosen the 4 bracket bolts. A variety of extensions may be needed for best leverage. The more forward bolts were significantly harder to remove, after a few minutes, everything comes off.

 

6) Maneuver the bar and attached hardware off the car. I just moved the bar towards the passenger side, using the gap between bumper and wheel to exit the car, and once it was far enough, out and around from the center exhaust pipe.

 

7) With the bar off the car, remove the sway bar links and transfer to new bar in the SAME orientation and sides. Also, apply thread locking compound to the threads. Tq spec is 42 ft-lb on these.

 

post-2402-0-06600000-1494200452_thumb.jpg

 

8) Observe the two bars side by side

 

post-2402-0-12416500-1494200453_thumb.jpg

 

post-2402-0-64479000-1494200448_thumb.jpg

 

9) Apply supplied lube to inside of new bushings, inside faces of fixed collars, and anywhere else the poly will make contact with metal on the bar. This will keep things moving, and quiet. Formula5 lube is VERY STICKY, so have a rag and soapy water handy to clean up after. This stuff helps keep water and dirt out and away. The brackets also have zerk fittings for easy reapplication in the future. Steeda does not have a maintenance interval recommendation in their instructions.

 

post-2402-0-68690400-1494200455_thumb.jpg

 

10) Once the bushings are on the bar, it is ready to be installed in the car. Simply reverse the order in which it was removed. I lightly threaded the 4 bracket bolts first to support the bar. After guiding in the link hardware to the spring arms, and making sure the links were as straight as possible, I snugged everything up gradually, ensuring a nice centered fit. Final TQ spec on the brackets is also 42 ft-lb.

 

post-2402-0-98222600-1494200448_thumb.jpg

 

Check all hardware, and orientation. Make sure none of the rear leveling sensor wiring was damaged during install, as it tends to get in the way. Admire your work, and go for the test drive!.

 

 

All in all, I have gotten some highway, back road, and basic driving done with the bar. It feels great. Works exactly as advertised. The handling is more balanced, the car has less body roll, and turn-in instills more confidence in corners. I have noticed ZERO decrease in ride comfort, and there is no NVH increase as well. For $180, its a great handling mod and helps give the MKZ chassis some more respect. High speed corners (on/off ramps, sweeping expressway corners) are now very firm and fun. Loving it so far!

 

Let me know if you have any feedback or questions.

 

-Devin

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Great write-up, Devin.  :thumbsup:

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Good right up. Thanks

 

This will fit a 13 MKZ fwd with the mag ride shocks?

Edited by BlownGP

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great write up.. 

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Thanks for your time putting this together!

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Good right up. Thanks

 

This will fit a 13 MKZ fwd with the mag ride shocks?

 

Yes I believe so, description states "fwd and awd models" So I think you are safe.

 

Thanks for the feedback/support guys.

 

-Devin

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Nice write up.

 

I'm wondering if anyone has tried the front sway bar from Steeda for the fusions?

 

I don't even know if our cars have a front sway bar...I assume so but heck old v6 mustangs didn't come with them but GTs did, sometimes ford does not see these things as necessary.

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Nice write up.

 

I'm wondering if anyone has tried the front sway bar from Steeda for the fusions?

 

I don't even know if our cars have a front sway bar...I assume so but heck old v6 mustangs didn't come with them but GTs did, sometimes ford does not see these things as necessary.

 

 

I 'm curious about that also.  I would get the sway bar because it helps so much.. I've seen it on the Steeda website,, Does anyone have it?  

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I'm curious if the new 3.0T with drivers package has a front sway bar now.  And what size the rear one is.  I did front and year swaybars on my thunderbird.  1 3/8 solid sways front and rear. Damn thing was amazing in corners. but if you ever get on uneven bumps it would beat the shit out of you completely.  I hit some deep rivets that cross the road at an angle once at 55MPH and I could have sworn it bent my rims and put the car up on 2 wheels.  Thankfully it was no to both but it sure felt like it LOL.

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What do you mean by "now?" All Zephyrs/MKZs have had front sway bars since their introduction in 2006, regardless of engine or options.

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I thought I read somewhere they didn't have one. Or maybe it was the rear it didn't have. Which makes more sense now that I say that. Disregard. I'm retarded lol!

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