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Zalvern

3.0T Performance Modifications

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Well....I was close. I had to cut away about an inch or so (good ole mini hacksaw) of the box at the front air dam (down to where the brackets would be). I also took off the brackets. I managed to get the thing wedged in there. No way brackets or not, it was coming loose from the front. After hooking up the hoses, there was a chance that it might move upwards around the battery box, but I am fairly certain that with the hood closed and strut resting on it, it wouldn't go anywhere. What held me back was removing the IAT sensor from the stock airbox. Usually with other vehicles, it is no big deal if the tabs break because you will never use the stock box again anyways (or they use actual screw in sensors). However, since it looked like I was going to have to break the tabs to get it out (not a big deal to stick in the Steeda grommet hole), I opted not to do so. Just wasn't 100% sure that if I turned the engine on with the Steeda CAI installed, that there wouldn't be an issue. So I opted to keep the stock box intact and put it back in. I did go on Rock Auto and ordered another IAT sensor for 5$ that I can use exclusively with the Steeda. It is rather frustrating, but there is a glimmer of hope. Now I will need to wait for my schedule and the weather to align so I can try again when the part comes in.

On another note, I will be getting the Ultimate Performance Garrett intercooler for Christmas. Also, I will try to load up my stock files to the HP tuner this weekend so I can send back to Unleashed.

Thanks again for the hints and support.

 

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No problem, I'll still be around and glad to help anyone in regards to performance. My MKZ may be gone, but my knowledge hasn't been forgotten that I can at least help others.

Yes, with so little space and the hood, the Steeda Airbox will not go anywhere. It will also surprisingly do well at reducing IAT1 temperatures when the vehicle goes into motion and reduce heat soak. Oh but don't try to drive the car without the IAT1 sensor connected or working properly...it'll go into limp mode (poor performance response) till its fixed. I will say that tab is tougher than you think, and just needs a little tug over its "groove" till it gets over the slope to twist itself out.

Since you mention getting the Intercooler, which is no doubt a great upgrade: Are you going to try and install it yourself? I will say that will be a challenge for sure.

Edited by Zalvern

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No...LOL. I'll be paying someone to install the intercooler. Probably sometime in January. I feel comfortable enough on most cars with "above engine" items such as CAIs, throttle bodies, thermostats, catch cans, etc. My rule of thumb is I don't go underneath or for anything that requires the car to be raised short of an emergency tire change. 

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Totally understandable. It was a "rewarding nightmare" to install that thing alone. On the plus side its what really got me to get knowledgeable with the 3.0 layout.

The benefit is you can keep the stock active grille shutters in full working order with this intercooler upgrade (most others just make you remove them and run with a annoying DTC). Just two tips to inform the shop when they install it:

1. The plate underneath the Intercooler that latches to the Grille Shutters has to remain removed. Its too little space after the bigger intercooler is put in to use anymore, which the main under shield still will be enough to prevent road debris from reaching internals. The grille shutters will still remain in place because the larger intercooler will give them less wiggle room, compared to the smaller stock one (which is why that plate connection exists).

2. On the grille shutters there is a metal bolt on the lower half that must be left out upon reassembly. The grille shutters will be fine without it (they have additional clamps and bolts so missing one will not risk them falling apart. If you do not remove it, the shutters will get stuck against the Intercooler when trying to close. Like with the grille cover, just leave it out.

I have a picture of that bolt still, as you can see it bumps the intercooler and prevents the shutters from working correctly, and will throw a DTC as a result of them getting stuck: IalHhZ8l.jpg

Other than that, make sure those charge pipes are on REALLY good, especially on the hot side. Then its all good to go.

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3rd time was the charm. Got the CAI installed. As you can see from the pic, I cut down the front of the intake to right before where the bracket holes were. Leaving the brackets on just didn't give me enough space to cram it in. So far no codes and nothing seems amiss.  Thanks for all the insight with the CAI and the also with the intercooler tips. I'll update after the tune and then later on after the intercooler install. 

IMG_20181217_130826359_HDR.jpg

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Excellent! Yes you can just trim back the front half for a better fit. Though what I did is drilled two holes so the brackets could still bolt down the front half. Then it's all good and secured.

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I am new to the forum and happy to be picking up a 2017 Reserve with drivers package in two weeks.  I am (unfortunately) a veteran of modifying audi’s That nearly cost me a marriage.  So I am trying to keep things simple....

here is what I have gathered so far:

 

Tune- Livernois is the only one available.  Good for the most part.  Some comments around misfire that is unrelated to the tune and is simply exposing other issues?  Has anyone tried one degree colder plugs?

 

Intercooler- People keep referencing darkstar’s intercooler.... Where can this be found?  I can find levels performance and cp-e intercooler... Will those work? I read certain functionality is disabled with the install?  Worth the trade-off?

Intake- Steeda’s intake is the only only and is 4/10 in overall difficulty’s.. Takes some patience and modifications to the intake box to cut it so it can fit with the hood?

Diverter Valve- Go Fast Bits Diverter Valve Plus 9358..... pretty easy install....

Bigger that involves MPG sacrifice and relearning (battery unhook or otherwise)

Throttle Body- BBK 1894 65mm throttle body .........

I miss anything?  

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Stay with stock plugs, even if you get every single bolt on possible. They're already a step colder from standard ford plugs. The misfire issues were signs of 3.0 engines with faulty cylinder heads that had either oil or coolant leak and foul the spark plug (I posted pictures elsewhere). This shouldn't be an issue anymore.

http://www.autoperformancealbuquerque.com/auto-performance/#

If you want to get in touch with darkstar in regards to the intercooler. I haven't spoken with him in some time though. His unit is best as to keep the Active Grill Shutters installed to retain some mpg benefits (cause mpg will drop when you tune and bolt on upgrade).

That's all you need really as the exhaust output isn't as restrictive. There are gains with downpipe and exhaust but doesnt throttle back power either like a hot intake system.

Edited by Zalvern

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I have 2 websites. the one Zalvern posted will work to get in contact but the one with the store is here: https://ultimateperformancenm.com/

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Hi-

Just got the Unleashed tune installed (93P) from Torrie- did a slightly more in depth posting on the Livernois tune section. As Darkstar indicated above, the intercooler is on the (his) Unlimited Performance website. They offer both a Vibrant core (slightly less expensive) and a Garrett core.  I have the intercooler with the Garrett core sitting in my basement but am waiting to get it installed when I have some time to drop the car off (this is not something that I can do on my own and feel comfortable). I rate the Steeda at an 11/10 for difficulty...just kidding, but is a little bit of a pain. I would also recommend just buying a new IAT sensor from Rock Auto for $7 rather that risking breaking the OEM out of the stock airbox.

Edited by Dismonkey1

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Update: Got the Ultimate Performance Intercooler installed on the 23rd. Very nice addition. It took the installer over 3 hours (although they didn't charge me for the full time). No one had ever installed one a Lincoln. The size difference between the stock and new intercooler is apparent.  

Just got done some tweaking of the Unleashed 93P tune I had installed. I was getting a P0234 code (overboost) along with the malfunction lights (Powertrain/Awd and the check engine) when I rapidly accelerated from a roll to 60 plus mph. Had to do some scanning/logging with the HP and the channel he provided and sent back to Torrie. As usual, he responded within an hour with a new calibration. So far, I haven't had any malfunction although internally, the P0234 code still exists (and can't be cleared by the tuning device) as it is "permanent. I believe though that it will resolve after a few cycles of driving. On the original tune, it looked like the wastegate pressure was dropping off a cliff (down to 4-6) when I hit approx. 60 under WOT. With the revised tune, the wastegate pressure has held steady (in the 14-16 range) each time. Hopefully, that resolves the issue. Other than that, I am enjoying the tune and the mods. The car can really go.

Next up is a change of tires. I am not a fan of Michelin Primacy MXM4s for a modded vehicle, and needed some UHP A/S tires. The current stock tires can't hold any traction with a rapid acceleration (flooring it). They fishtail out and they feel dangerous at high speeds. Usually I would go with my trusty standbys, the Cooper RS3-G1s or the Goodyear F1 asymmetric A/S, but decided to go with the new Nokian ZLine A/S. Nokian is a great tire company albeit pretty much unknown in the U.S. Got the 255/40/19s for a great deal and will give them a shot. Should have them installed within the next two weeks.

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Dismonkey1, I'm also looking into upgrading the performance of my MKZ however not going through anything more than a tune for now. Do you think doing just the tune worthwhile for a day at the track with perhaps an E85 tune for the same purpose?

EDIT: I was told by Livernois that an E85 tune is not available because the injectors and fuel system aren't really up to the task, or was it just the injectors, not sure. What have you guys been told?

Edited by Loki-MKZ

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I have noticed on the street that a hard launch, the car has issues with traction which boggles the mind but considering the tires maybe I shouldn't be shocked. On cold days forget about it, it's funny except of course with the wife in the car, doesn't seem to be as funny then. This was supposed to be a daily driver for work, not another performance vehicle. I explained to her, I can't help it if Lincoln got the 400hp motor and it happened to be in this car! 😜

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On 12/17/2018 at 5:51 PM, Zalvern said:

Excellent! Yes you can just trim back the front half for a better fit. Though what I did is drilled two holes so the brackets could still bolt down the front half. Then it's all good and secured.

Front half ..... or drill two holes ...is this in reference to the battery tray..... Or the front by the IAT SENSOR?

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2 hours ago, Roger said:

Front half ..... or drill two holes ...is this in reference to the battery tray..... Or the front by the IAT SENSOR?

Front half entry of the intake CAI that is supposed to line up with the air ram inlet of the MKZ's frame. I mean trim the Steeda box so it doesnt need wrestling to fit in. Shouldn't need to trim the battery tray afterwards.

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Yes- Zalvern's instructions are extremely helpful. You will need to cut away/trim the front of the box where it meets the air dam basically to in front of where the current bracket holes are. It will probably still need some extra muscle to shove it in, but it also should stay in place even without the brackets (I currently don't have the brackets on and it doesn't move). The hood strut also keeps it down/in place laying in the cut-out.

I do not believe an E85 tune is available. Probably only an 89 and 93P. The stock Primacy tires need to go even if you just get a tune. The difference will be noticeable and the tires will break loose with any aggressive WOT acceleration from a slow roll and especially from a stop. The cold weather doesn't help of course. It is important to remember that these are still "Ecoboost" engines even though Lincoln dropped that moniker. These engines can achieve significant gains with just a tune alone. The SHO I had just had an Unleashed 93P tune and a 3bar MAP sensor and it was all I really needed for that car.

Edited by Dismonkey1

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It's a good thing for it to be a snug fit with the Steeda CAI. After I added some heat shield padding, despite being an open air CAI (means more enjoyable intake noise!) The thermal padded Steeda CAI resisted and recovered from heat soak way better than the stock air box. It was able to achieve ambient temps, and even a degree or two sub ambient during vehicle motion. Without going into liquid cooling, that is excellent for an open air CAI.

Sure the shiny silver kind clashes, but you can pad the inside of the box with thermal wrap and around the IAT1 sensor. It was function I greatly enjoyed optimizing.

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On 2/5/2019 at 5:09 PM, Dismonkey1 said:

Yes- Zalvern's instructions are extremely helpful. You will need to cut away/trim the front of the box where it meets the air dam basically to in front of where the current bracket holes are. It will probably still need some extra muscle to shove it in, but it also should stay in place even without the brackets (I currently don't have the brackets on and it doesn't move). The hood strut also keeps it down/in place laying in the cut-out.

I do not believe an E85 tune is available. Probably only an 89 and 93P. The stock Primacy tires need to go even if you just get a tune. The difference will be noticeable and the tires will break loose with any aggressive WOT acceleration from a slow roll and especially from a stop. The cold weather doesn't help of course. It is important to remember that these are still "Ecoboost" engines even though Lincoln dropped that moniker. These engines can achieve significant gains with just a tune alone. The SHO I had just had an Unleashed 93P tune and a 3bar MAP sensor and it was all I really needed for that car.

Yep, Lincoln couldn't have that "Ecoboost" moniker for a Luxury brand, I found it funny when it was released that the MKZ and Continental would have the 400hp AWD version and not Ford models. That was when the decision was made to get the MKZ. I was hoping to not have to buy tires but I have to I have to, we'll see.

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And they aren't even that economical, "Eco" is just a marketing term. Love the motor though.

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12 hours ago, MKZMark said:

And they aren't even that economical, "Eco" is just a marketing term. Love the motor though.

I think getting 28 mpg hwy in a 4200lb car with AWD and 400hp is pretty economical.  😁

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12 hours ago, MKZMark said:

And they aren't even that economical, "Eco" is just a marketing term. Love the motor though.

I remember a concept vehicle a long time ago that used the engine name of TwinForce. It was a great name, but didn’t convey fuel efficiency enough for the execs and marketing crew. 

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I get 30+ most of the time going to and from omaha to Tulsa. I have even gotten 35MPG a few times. This car gets amazing mileage as long as you don't have to accelerate hahaha. The turbos are too small and produce boost way too easy. City driving just fizzles gas.

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2 minutes ago, FunktasticLucky said:

I get 30+ most of the time going to and from omaha to Tulsa. I have even gotten 35MPG a few times. This car gets amazing mileage as long as you don't have to accelerate hahaha. The turbos are too small and produce boost way too easy. City driving just fizzles gas.

Agreed, I've only had mine for 2 months and no real road trip yet so mine is going to work 24 miles, it's just too easy to tip into boost to pass traffic with damn near no effort. Completely different way to accelerate compared to my Mustang GT.

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14 hours ago, FunktasticLucky said:

I get 30+ most of the time going to and from omaha to Tulsa. I have even gotten 35MPG a few times. This car gets amazing mileage as long as you don't have to accelerate hahaha. The turbos are too small and produce boost way too easy. City driving just fizzles gas.

You must have a light foot - I get 28 or so on road trips with the 2.0t.

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That's just cruise control set to 70-75. I'm not sure why it gets such amazing gas mileage. Don't get me wrong though. It's gotten its share of shit mileage as well. Driving through the Mt of NC destroyed it's mileage.

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