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Zalvern

3.0T Performance Modifications

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Well....I was close. I had to cut away about an inch or so (good ole mini hacksaw) of the box at the front air dam (down to where the brackets would be). I also took off the brackets. I managed to get the thing wedged in there. No way brackets or not, it was coming loose from the front. After hooking up the hoses, there was a chance that it might move upwards around the battery box, but I am fairly certain that with the hood closed and strut resting on it, it wouldn't go anywhere. What held me back was removing the IAT sensor from the stock airbox. Usually with other vehicles, it is no big deal if the tabs break because you will never use the stock box again anyways (or they use actual screw in sensors). However, since it looked like I was going to have to break the tabs to get it out (not a big deal to stick in the Steeda grommet hole), I opted not to do so. Just wasn't 100% sure that if I turned the engine on with the Steeda CAI installed, that there wouldn't be an issue. So I opted to keep the stock box intact and put it back in. I did go on Rock Auto and ordered another IAT sensor for 5$ that I can use exclusively with the Steeda. It is rather frustrating, but there is a glimmer of hope. Now I will need to wait for my schedule and the weather to align so I can try again when the part comes in.

On another note, I will be getting the Ultimate Performance Garrett intercooler for Christmas. Also, I will try to load up my stock files to the HP tuner this weekend so I can send back to Unleashed.

Thanks again for the hints and support.

 

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No problem, I'll still be around and glad to help anyone in regards to performance. My MKZ may be gone, but my knowledge hasn't been forgotten that I can at least help others.

Yes, with so little space and the hood, the Steeda Airbox will not go anywhere. It will also surprisingly do well at reducing IAT1 temperatures when the vehicle goes into motion and reduce heat soak. Oh but don't try to drive the car without the IAT1 sensor connected or working properly...it'll go into limp mode (poor performance response) till its fixed. I will say that tab is tougher than you think, and just needs a little tug over its "groove" till it gets over the slope to twist itself out.

Since you mention getting the Intercooler, which is no doubt a great upgrade: Are you going to try and install it yourself? I will say that will be a challenge for sure.

Edited by Zalvern

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No...LOL. I'll be paying someone to install the intercooler. Probably sometime in January. I feel comfortable enough on most cars with "above engine" items such as CAIs, throttle bodies, thermostats, catch cans, etc. My rule of thumb is I don't go underneath or for anything that requires the car to be raised short of an emergency tire change. 

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Totally understandable. It was a "rewarding nightmare" to install that thing alone. On the plus side its what really got me to get knowledgeable with the 3.0 layout.

The benefit is you can keep the stock active grille shutters in full working order with this intercooler upgrade (most others just make you remove them and run with a annoying DTC). Just two tips to inform the shop when they install it:

1. The plate underneath the Intercooler that latches to the Grille Shutters has to remain removed. Its too little space after the bigger intercooler is put in to use anymore, which the main under shield still will be enough to prevent road debris from reaching internals. The grille shutters will still remain in place because the larger intercooler will give them less wiggle room, compared to the smaller stock one (which is why that plate connection exists).

2. On the grille shutters there is a metal bolt on the lower half that must be left out upon reassembly. The grille shutters will be fine without it (they have additional clamps and bolts so missing one will not risk them falling apart. If you do not remove it, the shutters will get stuck against the Intercooler when trying to close. Like with the grille cover, just leave it out.

I have a picture of that bolt still, as you can see it bumps the intercooler and prevents the shutters from working correctly, and will throw a DTC as a result of them getting stuck: IalHhZ8l.jpg

Other than that, make sure those charge pipes are on REALLY good, especially on the hot side. Then its all good to go.

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