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robertlane

Lincoln MKZ Do It Yourself Section

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Here's a new section where you can add step-by-step guides on how to do yourself ;)

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I hate working on the 2014 MKZH! Some things reminds me of our Daughter's MB SLK-350 while other things don't. If you plan on working on the 2014 MKZH, how do you raise/jack the car up to change the oil or rotate the tires? The unibody is marked with lifting points that require a pinch weld adapter for your floor jacks. Without that adapter, you'll damage that area of the car. I purchased a set of those pinch weld adapters---they push over the pinch welds forming a lifting point for your floor jacks.

 

Once the car is jacked up, you'll find a full cover under the engine--just like the Daughter's MB SLK had. You must remove this cover that is attached by two plastic locking pins + 10 screws on the outside perimter of the cover. Once that's removed, you can drain the oil pan and R/R the oil filter. Then reattach the cover.

 

Why do I do this? First I use Mobil 1 5W-20 oil---4 1/2 quarts--many shops install 5 quarts which is over filled. Additionally the selling Dealership wanted $70 above the so called free/included oil changes for the Mobil 1. Are all LIncoln purchasers suckers? Then you have the issue of R/R of that lower full cover. Will the worker reinstall ALL of the pins and screws? From my Dealership experience, questionable and how would you know? If they want to charge you for missing pins or screws, then you'll understand.

 

Our car was delivered with wheel locks installed at the Dealership. Just for fun, I checked the torque of those locks---not one was even close to 100 ft pounds. If the Dealership rotates the tires, will they fall off? I once had the lug nuts become VERY loose on my purchased new 1970 MARK III--the right rear loose wheel was felt while driving. I pulled over to see what was going on! I tightened the lug nuts but the studs were damaged. The Dealership had to replace the five damage studs on that axle. Included "free" maintenance is questionable at best--if the lug nuts are over torqued and the rotors warp--they'll blame you for hard braking, etc. Then you'll pay for not covered wear!

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Pretty good information Mark.  I have a Mercedes too and purchased the three year maintenance agreement even though I have previously done most of my own service on all the cars I've ever owned.  This service agreement is inflation proof so I knew that when prices go up every year I would not have to pay more.  But the real reason was that darn drain pan plate and all those screws - just as you described!  Then I found out most of the dealers use a device that sucks out the oil through the dip stick and never even bother with the drain pan.  I never thought of that or I might have tried it.  

 

BTW, is the oil filter under the car or in the engine compartment?  If it is in the engine compartment there would be no need for the jack or weld adapters, at least on the oil change, although you need to jack the car up if you rotate your own tires (which I don't do anymore) or perform more extensive work.  Anyway, I'm glad this section is here.  I may go back to doing my own maintenance if I buy an MKZ next spring (I hope!).

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The oil filter is located forward part of the engine & under it when looking at the car--NOT possible to change it from above. I oil fill the oil filter before installing them. As to draining the oil pan from the dip stick---I don't know if it's that effective! Does it get any residue that would be at the bottom of the pan? Since I'm changing oil at around 5,000 miles, I'm ok with what I'm doing. At first the Mobil 1 did tend to "leak" out a little. But the last change it seems to have reduced that. 100% synthetic oil, like Mobil 1 tends to flow and leak more than blends but now not an issue.  The few drops that where there last change are no longer present. We plan to sell or trade the car in before the full warranty is over. Just depends on resale value vs trade in with sales tax credit. I feel the hybrid is not worth it. In our hot AZ summers, the mpg drops like a rock from the 40's into the low 30's. The V-6 models are not much better--low end torque is lacking unless you have turbo--then it loves gasoline.

 

Our sold and/or traded in Panther based cars, Town Car & Grand Marquis with a V-8 always got good MPG in the range of 26 during Summer & other seasons. Looking for a body on full framed chassis with a V-8 RWD--no unibody FWD as they ride differently. Can't compare the comfort and room of what we had. My Navigator is great but Lincoln screwed up with such a heavy vehicle with a V-6. This will be a hard choice due to current market models. I might keep the 2014 Navigator and repair/rebuild it as required. I remember when current FWD, Cadillac 4-6-8 engine, turbo and supercharging engines + the Oldsmobile V-8 diesel engine were introduced--just too many problems for the end purchaser.

Edited by Mark95man

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I always pre-filled oil filters too.  That way there would always be oil flowing even at the very beginning of start up.  Penzoil Platinum has been my favorite for years although Mercedes requires a special Euro synthetic made by Mobil.  This is what my dealer uses - or so he says!  I knew the MKZ Hybrid was really not a choice for me but it is disheartening to hear the 6s are not up to snuff.  

 

I like the design of this car and in the Black Label edition would be close (or so I've heard) to the Mercedes designo interior.  I've also been looking, at least on paper and internet, at the new Jag XF with the supercharger V6s.  A bit of luxury and sport built into one.  They also now provide all maintenance, even on wear items such as wiper blades and a very generous 60,000 mile/5 year warranty.  The price has been reduced a few thousand from the 2015 model and that is a nice bonus but it is still expensive with all the options.  It is also a question of reliability because I am 140 miles from the nearest Jaguar dealer.  No matter what kind of warranty they provide that is a huge consideration.  Of course, I am also 140 miles away from a Black label dealer (hence my desire to return to doing some of my own maintenance which is usually easier on American cars than European.  But if necessary, there at least are a couple regular Lincoln dealers closer to me.  

 

I have pretty much decided to test drive four vehicles in the spring when I intend to trade - the Jag, E class, MKZ Black Label and possibly the Genesis.  The Genesis represents a good bargain and has a v8, but it is not a "luxury" brand and you are treated the same at the dealership as if you were buying any other Hyundai.  They need to up the quality of dealer experience to match the "luxury" aspect of the car.  The E class has the most luxury and comfort but it is the most expensive.  The MKZ is the best looking and is nearly the value of the Genesis not to mention it is American.  The Jag could be the one that mixes sport with luxury the best - but you pay for it.  It will be an interesting spring for me!

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Brand new MKZ owner here and so far my wife and I are in love. I can't imagine ever buying anything else from now on. I haven't lifted my 2015 MKZ yet. I saw a post about it needing adapters for a floor jack on order to jack the car up. Is this true? And what type of oil is recommended? Ford mix blend or fully synthetic? I always did mobile 1 on my silverado that I owned for 11 years.

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I too have the 3.7 V6 and I plan to use Mobil 1 for my next oil change. I used it for 14 years in my Lincoln LS V6.

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Welcome to the forums, Robert!

 

 Pinch-weld jack adapters are recommended for any unibody car if you're not using the factory jack. Your Silverado was a BOF vehicle, so it was wasn't an issue.

 

WRT oil, per your OM, Motorcraft 5W-20 synthetic blend, or any oil that meets Ford Spec  WSS-M2C945-A, is fine.  If you're more comfortable using a full synthetic, then by all means, do so.  Just be sure that any oil you use shows that it meets that spec on the container in order to avoid any potential warranty issues in the future.

Edited by drolds1

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For any di (direct injection) motor I would recommend a fully synthetic or shorted oc intervals. Di tends to wash the cylinder walls and has a tendency to pool/mix with what oil is left on the cylinder wall. This all in turn ends up as raw fuel in the oil pan. Smell the oil from a di motor vs a throttle body or port injected and you will definitely be able to tell.

 

I have preferred Rotella T6 for my Di motors ( readily available and stands up to fuel shear very well)

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Cool thanks guys. Sounds like oil changes may be a bit harder but I can't wait til the first one. Where can I place the jack when lifting? Is it easier to lift from the front and rear?

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For any di (direct injection) motor I would recommend a fully synthetic or shorted oc intervals. Di tends to wash the cylinder walls and has a tendency to pool/mix with what oil is left on the cylinder wall. This all in turn ends up as raw fuel in the oil pan. Smell the oil from a di motor vs a throttle body or port injected and you will definitely be able to tell.

 

I have preferred Rotella T6 for my Di motors ( readily available and stands up to fuel shear very well)

His profile shows 3.7 V6, which is not GDI.

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So would fully synthetic not be recommended for a 2015 3.7? The dealership recommended the Ford blend, and I know that's what the Manuel also recommends. But I just wanna use the best oil that I can.

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My main reason for using Mobil 1 in my 3.7L is less friction especially when cold.

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So would fully synthetic not be recommended for a 2015 3.7? The dealership recommended the Ford blend, and I know that's what the Manuel also recommends. But I just wanna use the best oil that I can.

You can absolutely use it.   

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Cool thanks. I used mobile 1 synthetic on my 05 silverado for about 8 years. Hard to switch lol.

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I pulled 399,000 miles on an '08 Altima using Penzoil Platinum Full Synthetic, doing changes at 10k. I'll probably continue that regimen with my MKZ (Fram Pure One fiters)

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