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  1. Welcome. You won't notice issues, its as simple as a power draw overnight, or possibly something not going to sleep like it should. Many modules have been accused of being the culprit. Check out this thread on these forums that blames the DDM driver door module and the ACM audio control module. The chimes change because of low voltage so the car is going into a power saving mode, running only critical components. I'm highly suspect of my ACM module because the screen stays on. To provide better detail, I think of the screen in something like 4 stages; 1. Full on and displaying a logo or all white screen. 2. On but displaying no image so its black but brightly backlit. 3. On and no image, but DIMLY backlit. 4. Actually fully off. Given that mine likes to hang out in the #3 dimly backlit black screen mode for 10 minutes even though I locked the door makes it pretty easy to believe it could be drawing power all night long. I also suspect poor charging strategy from the BCM body control module which oversees the BMS battery monitoring system. I have been in the habit of data logging my car since I'm 93 tuned so it was no big deal for me to log the battery state of charge too. By default the car targets 80% so that battery life is extended. I changed mine to 90% target but the car does not appear to try to charge it higher. That's why I think the first reasonable move is to update all the modules and hope it doesn't make things worse. And thanks to the logging, I can use a battery tender to top off the battery if it gets too low in my eyes (under 70% and the car audibly starts slower). The battery is fine because the battery tender gets it to 100%, offsetting the power that a bad module is drawing. Why the car can't hit the target state of charge on a 45 minute drive is beyond me. I'll generally only see it raise like 5% max.
  2. yeah, seems 90% of them are numbskulls. They probably didn't even test it. So a couple times I charged mine up with the 5 amp battery tender and the car had a 100% state of charge the next morning. At end of first day it was at like 90% and then 80% second day. I think its generally staying around 75% right now. I also reset the BMS when the battery was fully charged so that the alternator (its an alternator even though the obd pid's call it a generator) would charge it more aggressively. The car just doesn't seem to enable the alternator output enough to hit the target soc. I drive at least 45 minutes at a whack so there's no reason target soc shouldn't be achieved. I am going to try to find the updated BMS module software and updated it via Forscan. I have not yet looked for overnight parasitic drains yet.
  3. If the battery is left barely charged, it builds up sulfates on the plates. It basically reduced the size or capacity of the battery because the lead isn't exposed to the acid. So you can charge it to 12.6 V but it discharges too quickly due to reduced capacity. Sometimes the battery can be revived by hitting it with a high amp charger which removes some of the sulfates, but it will never be as good as it was. I could easily be wrong here, but on the bad batteries, I think individual cells were soft shorting so instead of 6 cells at 2.13V, you basically had 5 at 2.13v. Sulfating can cause this, but poor manufacturing was more likely the culprit. You'd easily spot this with low voltage so I doubt this is the case for you. Heat is also the enemy so make sure to have the blanket on the battery. My LS had the battery in the trunk and those lasted 8 years without any attention. AGM batteries are more susceptible too so I need to get a insulating blanket on mine. I hooked my 5A battery tender up but it basically was in maintain mode after a couple minutes. The car sat long enough it should have updated the state of charge but it was at 71%, and 74% after 45 minute drive. Whole thing is beginning to really irritate me because when the battery is full, the car audibly turns over faster. Its not confidence inspiring to hear its not as fast as I know it can be, and the cold winter is right around the corner. The stupid BMS also encourages sulfating as a result of its strategy. Add in trunk modules and touch screens staying on and here we are with 1 year battery life. EDIT: Here is a great explanation of the BMS system... https://f01.justanswer.com/dcraig1000/7f13f1f7-c45e-4508-9ecf-45e8de351e0f_eee.pdf
  4. I busted out the laptop and my obd link (wired usb adapter forscan approved for programming modules) and noticed a couple things. While I reset my BMS when I put the new AGM battery in last year, I didn't update the battery type. It was still set to the original. Another setting is that the car targets just 80% rate of charge. I use my car for 45 minutes and it was not charging it to 80%, it was sitting around 70%. Maybe it waits to a certain threshold before charging or it has to sit deep sleep for 8 hrs to update? Anyway, I updated the battery type and set the target charge to 90%. I will charge it with a battery tender, then remove it and let the car deep sleep for 8 hrs (locked, and no interaction for 8 hrs including nearby key fob) so BMS can account for the fresh charge. I did reset the BMS which is not desirable as now the car thinks its a new battery when in reaility its a year old. Its probably not the end of the world. The car is always trying to disable the alternator to gain MPG and these charging issues are the result, in combo with trunk modules and stuff having parasitic drains. I'll try 95% target next after watching this a while, and finally go to 100 if i don't see problems. My car is not start/stop equipped, but these charging targets, parasitic drains, and poor battery quality are the main causes behind those systems disabling.
  5. They'll charge a diagnostic fee to stress test the battery and that's about it. Advance auto can do that for free I believe if you buy a battery. In order to get any good info, you need a known good battery. If your battery drops to 10V while cranking, its done. I don't know all the details of the BMS but I don't think it would be abnormal to see less output from the alternator if the car deems charging not required. There is info online though how it works. Only real way to know what might be draining it is monitoring current draw overnight, and unplug one module at a time, probably starting with the trunk. Then the ACM or whichever one runs the touch screen (maybe the FCIM after that). The car should be in a pretty deep sleep mode by the 30 minute mark. And remember, things like the display don't always stay on. Just because a module looks good one night doesn't mean its not the culprit. Amp probes with data logging come in handy for this stuff, and even then can take some time to find. I got one of those Yaber YR800 lithium jumper packs and it cranked over the tiny engine without issue so I always keep it in the car. I put a Diehard AGM battery in even though I don't have stop/start. Its about a year old but with colder weather here, we'll see what happens. I noticed it seems to not crank quite as quick is it did in the summer. I suspect the screen still. However to support the trunk module idea, I don't use the trunk much in the summer. Fall, winter and spring though there's constant use with kids hockey bags etc. I'll have to see if I can update my module through forscan.
  6. I just wanted to add to this thread that I did get a can for my 3.0T. I got it from Unleashed Tuning. Its made for the 2.7 Fusion Sport, but it fits perfectly on my car... JLT 3.0 Oil Separator Passenger Side / 2017-19 Fusion Sport 2.7 Ecoboost / Black Anodized JLT3034P-B
  7. If your key was near the car and the welcome light feature is enabled, that could easily do it. You'd never notice the lights if its out of sight in the garage. The voltage readings dropping that quick after shutdown probably indicates the battery was left drained for too long and has lost capacity. Or being almost drained over a longer time period. Sometimes the standard Ford chimes activating when keying-on are an indicator of this... for some reason. I would replace the battery and then monitor the voltage again in the same scenarios you did above. Be sure to reset the BMS battery monitor with forscan if you do as this controls the charge rate of a new vs old battery. One thing I have noticed is that when I get out and lock the car at night, the touch screen stays on, but its black. Its hard to notice unless you specifically look for it. It stays on for like 5-10 minutes or so, possibly longer. If I open up the door (happens to be the passenger door) and then close it and re-lock, it USUALLY turns off completely. In this scenario, I'm usually removing hockey bags from the trunk after I get out, close the trunk and lock the car, and notice the ghost black screen on the way by. I have heard that pressing the brake after you key off prevents this but I don't think there's any merit to that. I too use a tender if I don't plan to use the car for a week but make sure you attach the negative clamp on the charger to the vehicle ground and not the battery negative. One last aside... there was also a massive stretch of bad batteries and you might not have any issue with the car. There are only a few manufacturers but tons of branding names so going to another brand likely makes no difference.
  8. 02LincLS

    Getting the Power to the Rear

    I know you don't have your car anymore, but long-pressing the traction control button will greatly reduce Advance-trac's stability intervening (different from just disabling traction control). Most people cannot handle glorious oversteer so here we are. For those with the driver package and it's torque vectoring rear diff (RDU), it's programming can be modified to increase rear torque. There is a FocusRS forum thread called Cracking the Code that goes into how to do it. Their diff is physically the same as our driver pkg diff, but obviously the factory tuning is a bit different given the weight differences of the car, and intended driving feel. They have a lot more options to to load, mostly geared towards autocross and drifting. However, the genius that reverse engineered the code made a mild option for us that I feel makes a significant difference in reducing the rear delay you speak of. I used Forscan to load the calibration file instead of the virtual machine they mention. It was so easy I was actually worried I was doing something wrong, but still understand you could brick the module and lose AWD if you're not careful or use the wrong cable, etc. The MKZ version basically calls for a 13% increase in torque over what it would stock, in all instances. The RS has a lot more options such as locking left and right axles together, raising individual axle torque limits, and not only a 13% increase option, but a 25% option as well. I'm sure he could compile a 25% version for our MKZ's if there was enough interest, but honestly the 13% works well for me in most cases. I'm tuned and while they're okay, the General GMax AS05's that came on the car are not as good as say the Michelin A/S's, but front slip is still very minor with traction control off. Its also nice from a reliability standpoint to move some of that additional 100 ft-lbs of torque off the front wheels. One other thing to consider is that once over 40 mph, the RDU is pretty quiet. Check out your Intelligent AWD gauge when you step on it. Also watch how it puts more torque to the outside wheel in a turn to prevent spin on the inside, and eliminate the oversteer you wanted.
  9. Could be as simple as you need the driver side actuator too now, or there is something wrong with the module powering them. The actuator is cheap so I'd start there. Its a 10 year old moving part that can wear out.
  10. 02LincLS

    AC Compressor and condenser removal

    I don't have any info on the disassembly, but consider some things before you attempt to tear it apart yourself... If there is refrigerant still in the system, you lawfully are required to have that removed and captured/contained with the proper equipment. There is also risk of mechanical contamination in the entire system depending on how the old components failed. Plugging new parts in will result in quick failure again unless taken fully apart and cleaned. I'm not familiar enough with it to say with certainty, but I suspect as long as the clutch is disengaged, no harm should come to the compressor if you drove it. Leave the HVAC off including the defogger, or better yet, pull the fuse for the AC compressor. You might save a few hours of labor by doing it yourself, but when considering the price of a compressor ($700 for my '17) and also the condenser, you could fail the new parts if done improperly and you're the one left holding the bag. Burden of proof may fall on you to show you cleaned the system properly to get a warranty replacement. If the shop or dealer botches it, its on them to eat the additional cost including refilling the system. There are fairly affordable kits available to leak check and refill the system yourself, which involves vacuum pumping out the lines and backfilling with the proper oil/refrigerant mix to the specified pressures. This will further eat into your money saved though. Probably not worth doing yourself unless you plan to use it frequently or on another car.
  11. He is referring to settings that disable the auto noise cancelling and "fake" engine noises by disabling in forscan. It changes configuration on the module. While its not difficult to do, unless you're well versed in doing this its best to just stay clear as you can mess stuff up. You could skip the lc7i if you wanted by also using forscan to configure the Audio Control Module so that the speaker outputs become low level signal just like a preamp RCA. In doing so, all digital signal processing is disabled. This is a perfect solution to bass clipping as you turn up your system. Then use an amplifier with built in equalizer to set things up the way you want. The downside is you have to run speaker wire to the doors and amplify those signals, and its a major pita thanks to the molex connectors blocking the path.
  12. Just a small update... My learned octane adjust ratio is finally hitting -1.00 on pump gas alone, without octane boosters. I only buy gas at this particular Shell station now. There are still situations where it will drop for a little while but eventually it moves back. Things that cause it to drop are mainly the fuel quality itself, but also environmental; mainly intake temperatures and load on engine (high gear, lower rpm's, uphill). Its also mainly on light/part throttle which the car is always trying to find the edge for efficiency purposes, and back off when it finds it. I'm trying not to beat on it a lot, but I might do a couple more WOT data logs to make sure that end of things is dialed in safely and see what its hitting for boost. By eye, I have not noticed anything beyond a 1-2 degree pull, if any pull at all. Still contemplating water meth which would likely let me bump power up more, with bonus of keeping intake valves clean.
  13. I am close to sea level. While there has been a seasonal change going into summer, the behavior of the OAR is not changing. The large garret core intercooler does an incredible job keeping intake air temps reasonable, even when its 90°F outside with oppressive humidity. I am now tuned which exacerbates the issue a bit so I'm actively working with a tuner to try to figure it out. The local gas might be adding 15% ethanol now that they're allowed to which would typically raise octane, but unless the car knows to pump more fuel to compensate, it might be leaning the mix in certain situations. 93 octane might be a slow seller too so it sits in tanks and its octane drops. I wish I knew. There aren't any ethanol stations near me either so this is the best I can do for octane short of using boosters, which I don't want to do all the time. My 3.5 EB Flex is happy as a clam with the same 93 octane gas (its fully stock with 130K on the clock). Its OAR is pegged at -1.00 and only if you extensively beat on the car will it drop, but it then re-corrects back pretty quick. That car that likely has carbon buildup on the intake valves as well where my MKZ doesn't, at least not at this point anyway. The flex might max its oar with 91 octane though, where the MKZ needs 93 to max it. It is not false knock either since the OAR responded to the octane booster. The coolant temps are good. We're currently looking at fueling. We know we can get rid of WOT knock if we pull a little timing, but I was noticing the knock begins when the car shifts into 3rd, so it might have something to do with the load increase. I noticed some possibly slightly higher than normal fuel corrections during the knock events and I have an updated tune file to try at this point. Finally, just to put it in reference, the amount of knock retard we're talking about is small; 2-3° of pull. However its best to eliminate it so the car has more correction room available if truly bad gas ever makes its way into the tank. Lately I've been watching the knock value closer as it seems to be the main driver of OAR value itself. 2 degrees of knock advance (good) or retard (bad) seems to be the threshold. If you spend 5-10 seconds with the value beyond that 2° either way, the OAR will jump up or down. I am guessing the intensity of the knock in combination with the quantity of events is what drives the number of degrees of timing adjustment. Since the PCM drops the boost to also help fix the issue, you end up leaving somewhat significant power on the table. I'm limited to a solid 17 psi right now, meaning it can hold it there (peak is about 19.5). I think it should be able to hold a steady 20 psi once its dialed in properly. I have not heard a single audible knock through all of this which obviously is a very good thing. I did a 0-100 mph log (on a track, but not drag strip) and while the car pulled 2° in 3rd gear and 3° in 4th, it did the deed in 11.07 seconds. It broke the tires loose late into first gear which slowed the time down a bit. Comparing to Car & Driver's 0-100 in 12.0 seconds, I'm already pretty happy. With more practice handling the power jump, I'm sure I could improve it further. My guess is its a 12.7 second car with probably a smidge under 450hp, 500ft-lbs maybe. Some lighter wheels and better rubber will get it at least to a 12.6 or 12.5. I might do meth injection some day which would really help the WOT knock, but probably not anytime soon.
  14. 02LincLS

    Best Replacement Speakers

    Thanks for the reply! That's promising. I did a quick side by side of your speaker and the components I was looking at and the cutout diameter looks like the difference... Crutchfield says your 62.11's don't fit either, yet you say they fit perfect. Did you do minor mods to get them in? I'll search again for your pics because I did see them on my original search. This makes me want to spend more money and build a system. Return the Reference's or not...what to do, what to do. I apologize for derailing this topic a bit. I find TomV's plan to characterize the stock drivers pretty interesting. One concern is that the signal processing is heavily adjusted for cheaper driver limitations. Since the aftermarkets are so much more capable, it might be hard to find one with similar T/S. Since referring to a replacement only, and not adding an amp or anything else, sensitivity and resistance are probably the most critical. Unfortunately that doesn't say much for sound so replacements would likely need to be done at least as a pair anyway, even if just one is broken. Preferably the whole set of 4 locations.
  15. I've been doing extensive data logging and monitoring of this Learned Relative Octane Ratio "OAR" and a few other pids. I replaced my spark plugs with identical NGK laser iridium and gapped to 0.028". My learned octane continued to drop despite only fueling with 93. I was highly hesitant to put an octane booster in the tank but ultimately needed answers on if I was seeing false knock. Well, the OAR responded immediately and went from -.031 to -.084 which is desirable. I have always filled up at this same Mobil station and had no issues in the past. A Shell station nearby yielded the same results. With 3/4 tank of this supposed Mobil still in the tank, I added a 15 oz bottle of Lucas octane booster, and topped off at another Shell location where the pump was specifically marked "Top Tier". OAR jumped from -0.32 to -0.84 but more drive time is needed to see if will eventually max out. A couple side notes: the octane booster was diluted a bit since I filled up 16 gallons. I would have needed only 11.7 gallons of fuel to raise 30 or so octane points (for example 93 octane +3 = 96). Since the tank was filled, it probably only raised octane about 20. Since the OAR is not pegged at -1.00, I'm thinking that the car thinks this fuel is still not quite 93 octane. I am hoping that refueling at the top tier shell station after this tank is done will leave the OAR unchanged or improved. I'll reply back here with the results in a few weeks. If I ever had to run 87 octane in my turbo cars, I'd NEVER go wide open throttle. The OAR is a complex and marvelous safety system that looks at many interacting variables and always tries to make your engine run as safely and efficient as possible. It detects tiny issues way before your ears ever could, and fixes/ prevents bad situations with lightning response times. Fueling with 87 significantly limits the protective overhead, loses up to 10% hp (40+ hp in my case) and considerable gas mileage. Those that have "never had an issue" can thank the PCM, but they likely have no idea what hell it is preventing from unleashing upon their engine and wallets. and with the fuel price debacle what it is, I'm sure there are stations doing all kinds of crazy stuff. You're playing with fire using 87 because even the data from using 93 at a reputable brand is showing that the PCM is making protective corrections. At the very least, grab a cheap bluetooth adapter and monitor your OAR, especially if modified. The sale of higher octanes in this elevated gas price period is likely way down, making things worse. The Mobil referenced above is $5.50/gal and the top tier Shell is $6.00.