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02LincLS

MKZ Member
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  • My MKZ's Year
    2017
  • My MKZ
    MKZ EcoBoost

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  1. 02LincLS

    Best Replacement Speakers

    Thanks for the reply! That's promising. I did a quick side by side of your speaker and the components I was looking at and the cutout diameter looks like the difference... Crutchfield says your 62.11's don't fit either, yet you say they fit perfect. Did you do minor mods to get them in? I'll search again for your pics because I did see them on my original search. This makes me want to spend more money and build a system. Return the Reference's or not...what to do, what to do. I apologize for derailing this topic a bit. I find TomV's plan to characterize the stock drivers pretty interesting. One concern is that the signal processing is heavily adjusted for cheaper driver limitations. Since the aftermarkets are so much more capable, it might be hard to find one with similar T/S. Since referring to a replacement only, and not adding an amp or anything else, sensitivity and resistance are probably the most critical. Unfortunately that doesn't say much for sound so replacements would likely need to be done at least as a pair anyway, even if just one is broken. Preferably the whole set of 4 locations.
  2. I've been doing extensive data logging and monitoring of this Learned Relative Octane Ratio "OAR" and a few other pids. I replaced my spark plugs with identical NGK laser iridium and gapped to 0.028". My learned octane continued to drop despite only fueling with 93. I was highly hesitant to put an octane booster in the tank but ultimately needed answers on if I was seeing false knock. Well, the OAR responded immediately and went from -.031 to -.084 which is desirable. I have always filled up at this same Mobil station and had no issues in the past. A Shell station nearby yielded the same results. With 3/4 tank of this supposed Mobil still in the tank, I added a 15 oz bottle of Lucas octane booster, and topped off at another Shell location where the pump was specifically marked "Top Tier". OAR jumped from -0.32 to -0.84 but more drive time is needed to see if will eventually max out. A couple side notes: the octane booster was diluted a bit since I filled up 16 gallons. I would have needed only 11.7 gallons of fuel to raise 30 or so octane points (for example 93 octane +3 = 96). Since the tank was filled, it probably only raised octane about 20. Since the OAR is not pegged at -1.00, I'm thinking that the car thinks this fuel is still not quite 93 octane. I am hoping that refueling at the top tier shell station after this tank is done will leave the OAR unchanged or improved. I'll reply back here with the results in a few weeks. If I ever had to run 87 octane in my turbo cars, I'd NEVER go wide open throttle. The OAR is a complex and marvelous safety system that looks at many interacting variables and always tries to make your engine run as safely and efficient as possible. It detects tiny issues way before your ears ever could, and fixes/ prevents bad situations with lightning response times. Fueling with 87 significantly limits the protective overhead, loses up to 10% hp (40+ hp in my case) and considerable gas mileage. Those that have "never had an issue" can thank the PCM, but they likely have no idea what hell it is preventing from unleashing upon their engine and wallets. and with the fuel price debacle what it is, I'm sure there are stations doing all kinds of crazy stuff. You're playing with fire using 87 because even the data from using 93 at a reputable brand is showing that the PCM is making protective corrections. At the very least, grab a cheap bluetooth adapter and monitor your OAR, especially if modified. The sale of higher octanes in this elevated gas price period is likely way down, making things worse. The Mobil referenced above is $5.50/gal and the top tier Shell is $6.00.
  3. 02LincLS

    Best Replacement Speakers

    Funny this thread just came up. I noticed the entry chime sounded funny in my car over the weekend. Figured out yesterday the passenger front woofer is somehow blown. I have the base system unfortunately so I never really crank it. I have no idea how this happened. One other bug I noticed is the driver front tweeter will not play unless you momentarily turn the volume up. It will kick in and stay playing. I am hoping these are purely speaker failures and not APIM or amplifiers. I ordered a set of Infinity Reference 6530cx components just for ease of install as I didn't want to get into installing an amp and removing all the car's signal processing. I have always used their Kappa's in the past and loved them but Crutchfield says the Kappa 603cf's don't fit. I'm guessing that despite being shallower than the Reference's, the magnet is so huge, it's OD must interfere with something inside the door. I am fine with minor mods, and wouldn't rule out cutting the speaker opening bigger if that was the only issue to fit Kappa's. If anyone has the Kappa 6-1/2 components installed and can confirm this, that would be awesome. I searched the site through Google but came up dry.
  4. I read more on this today and found this... https://www.knowyourparts.com/technical-resources/engine/pcv-system-pressure-managment-in-turbocharged-applictions/ " Vacuum is present before the turbocharger. On some engines, the vacuum is greater than the vacuum generated by the pistons moving downward, but not all the time. Vacuum is generated only when the turbo is spinning. Typically, the area before the turbocharger is where the vapors from the crankcase are fed into the engine. Some turbocharged engines will feed crankcase vapors to the intake manifold with a bypass valve when the turbo is not creating enough vacuum. ..... The system directs the vapors to either before the turbo or intake manifold when the time is right. " So it also seems there might be separators built into the valve covers but who knows. It seems like you might need 2 catch cans; one for the regular PCV valve side, and another for the high boost condition side that runs to in between the filter box and the turbo intake. My car is a V6 so there's a tube on each bank. The 2.0 probably has two tubes and both would be on the single valve cover? This hints that all the oil in the intake of my 3.5 EB Flex might not be due to worn turbo seals (thought that's still most likely), but some of it could be from the crankcase vapors being pulled into the intake. If the catch can on the regular PCV side remains dry after a month of use, I may remove it and place it in-line of the tube going to the filter box intake and see what it collects. My last thought is that you'd probably be venting those vapors into the engine bay with a breather. If my conclusion above is correct, a second separator would be the way to go. I don't know if the existing design would work in that location but I might fab up a mount and try it out on the Flex. As long as my MKZ has CPO warranty, I don't want to experiment.
  5. I have read other forums where there were no issues with using it. Crankcase pressure venting under boost... My understanding, and I could be completely wrong, is that there is a hose coming from the other valve cover (opposite bank than the PCV) with similar fittings, and it goes to the intake side of the turbo (vacuum). My guess is the vent won't do much unless you unhook this tube at the valve cover. It will probably throw a code if you completely remove it because there is an electrical plug of some kind.
  6. I probably should have worded that better. Could you send a pic from under the hood showing the whole thing installed? I did get one for my 3.5 EB Flex and I might eventually move it over to the MKZ. Its still clean and dry, so I don't get the smell associated with the unit seeing boost pressure. (Most of the crud hitting the intake valves on my Flex is oil blow-by from the tired turbos. They have the wastegate linkage rattle and sound like there's bypass on the wastegate itself due to wear. This in turn makes them spin faster to hit boost target and wears it out). I don't think there's any way to catch this, and its substantial. Edit: Even thought this is a thread on the 2.0 engine, I read 3.0 in your post and thought you had the 3.0 engine, not realizing its referring to the separator.
  7. I like your idea with the check valve. As long as it can handle whatever might get by the separator, and the heat in the area. Can you show a pic where you mounted it? Really appreciate your replies!
  8. Hey TomV, Thanks for the reply. I did see that on my travels. It seems the data logging on the tuned vehicles using an SCT XCal or the like, can look at the individual cylinder spark timing and correction factor. I can't see that on Android Forscan using a bluetooth adapter. I do have the high speed USB cable used for module programming so maybe I should explore via PC version next. I could also try using my XCal and their software to see if those parameters becomes visible. If its the gas quality, then its the gas and I'll have to be careful. But if its an indication that something needs attention, I'd obviously like to resolve it before custom tuning. Things that come to mind are spark plugs, plug gaps, plug boots, intake valve cleanliness, and some other things with low degree of likelihood. Car currently has 58K on it, I've had it a bit over a year and put about 20K on it. I'll have to do plugs with a tune, so I might just do these now (my tuned 2.0 Fusion would eat plugs every 30K). I just replaced the air filter, and I ordered a evap hose assembly since I had the idle stumble after fuel fillup. I also got a PCV valve since it was cheap. I am trying to find a catch can kit that fits this car.
  9. Hi TomV, where did you get the connectors to go onto the PCV valve and on the intake. I see one of them on the intake side in your pic near the added check valve. The kit online only shows installed on 2.0 EB's and appears to have no fittings included. Thanks!
  10. 02LincLS

    Canister Purge Valve

    Fordparts.com has the assembly... Part #: 9B325 Fuel Tube Support Bracket and they're awful proud of it at $90 before shipping. Be sure to enter your VIN or vehicle info to get the right part as there's multiple hits if you just search the p/n. There's so many mistakes with descriptions and what is on which car, but this fits the MKZ 3.0. I wish I could find it on Tasca, but I can't see it no matter how I search. Found it on Tasca as p/n GL3Z-9B325-B https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-bracket-fuel-tube-support-gl3z9b325b?c=az0x I don't know if replacing just the valve section (0280142519) of this assembly will fix your issue. I would also avoid Dorman as their quality was a thing of nightmares back when I had my LS (coolant expansion tanks, etc). I have not bought it yet, wondering if this will fix the stumble at idle after fueling up.
  11. For anyone that has Forscan or uses another data logger app such as Torque, I'm curious to know what your OCTAD_R_LRND value is. Other helpful info is mentioning what octane of gasoline you run, and if you always run it or switch around at fill-up. The reason I ask is I'm looking to eventually put a 93 tune on the car but I have some reservations since my ratio won't quite go all the way to -1.00. I have run at least 5 tanks of Mobil 93 and then switched to Shell 93 but the ratio still hovers around -.85 to -.91. While not awful, I'd like to know if this particular engine (3.0T) is very critical of fuel quality compared to say the older 2.0 ecoboost. My 2014 2.0 EB (Fusion) would always show the ratio maxed out using just 91 octane, and would do it within half a tank of gas. But perhaps I'm wrong to expect the 3.0 to be the same. I tried resetting the Keep Alive Memory and it re-started at 0.00 and very slowly over 5 tanks went to -.91. Then it dropped back to -.85 and is staying there. I am data logging looking for knock or any other event that would make it adjust down, and there are none. The car pulls smooth and very hard no matter how fast the throttle is applied, at any engine speed, gear, or length of time you get on the throttle. Is this normal? What are your values, what octane are you running, and are you stock PCM calibration (tuned/ not tuned)?
  12. 02LincLS

    Devin's 2017 MKZ

    Jim, I know you asked a while ago, but Devin had the same issue. See the tail end of his 12/10/19 post in this thread on page 1... " Final note - watch when reinstalling the grill shutters as there is some wiring by the passenger side headlight that can get pinched. after install I noticed my hood ajar light is on, and the hood is definitely shut... so I think i need to double check the wiring and see if something got accidentally cut." He never said what it was, but most likely it was a missed harness somewhere since there's 8 million of them on this car. I too did the Garrett core intercooler and this car had 10X the harnesses compared to my '14 fusion titanium. I never got a hood ajar light, but I did miss 2 harnesses for the lower led strips. At least it was easily fixed, but that's what I get for trying to finish at night.
  13. 02LincLS

    Devin's 2017 MKZ

    Nice ride Devin! Hope you and the family/baby are well. I'm sure you've looked into turning up the wick already. Do those wake up the same as the tuned 3.0T does? No, I still haven't installed the H&R's but I will get to it soon! Drolds, what year(s) LS did you have? I terribly miss my LS as well, my neighbor recently got rid of it so I don't even see it drive by anymore. It was a silver birch '02 with staggered Jag Vulcans and a 125 progressive shot of nitrous. Handling was that car's mojo, especially lowered, and it lived to 300K miles even with trips to NE dragway. I had many parts in my basement to convert to what is now Devin's limited slip diff. The MKZ is the other way around with lots of power but so so handling; hopefully the springs remedy some of that. and his intercooler now lives on in my MKZ
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