scn101

If you remove the positive or negative battery cable you'll cause all modules to do a full reset. If possible, it might be best to leave the battery disconnected overnight to ensure all modules fully deplete any standby capacitor charge they may have and put the battery on a charger. This way you should have a fully charged battery when you reconnect the cable. One more thing, make sure your battery is good, test it if you can, so you can rule it out as a cause of any issues.

When I picked up my new 2019 MKZh in Jan of 2020 its battery was dead due to sitting on the lot for too long without being started. They replaced the battery of course. One year later I was getting the conserving battery warning along with a litany of other systems shutting down like the auto lock/unlock when you touch a door handle other than the drivers, the radio shutting off within seconds of the shutting the car off (before opening a door), no Lincoln approach lights, etc. Dealer said I wasn't driving enough yet I was keeping the battery on a battery tender, they replaced the battery. Fast forward to earlier this year and the same thing. This time instead of going to the dealer I disconnected the battery from the vehicle and put the battery charger in "restore" mode. That's supposed to take up to 4H to complete but it took over two days to complete. I then hooked up the battery and the issues were gone. The battery tender/charger I used was the Noco Genius G3500. I read that the car measures the battery charge when the car is left undisturbed for eight straight hours, which of course is every night. However, I read in one place that this measurement only occurs if the vehicle is locked, which I do not do in my garage. Since the battery restoration about two months ago I've been locking the car at night. My driving is still sporadic (I work from home) but so far no electrical issues. I don't know if locking the car has made any difference but so far no issues. One thing to note, due to the BMS (battery management system) in our vehicles, if you charge the battery with an external charger (battery tender, etc.) you need to connect the negative lead to a chassis ground point, not to the battery's negative terminal, this allows the BMS to measure the charge going into the battery. You still connect the red positive lead directly to the battery.

The other day my 2019 MKZh "texted" me via the Lincoln app that my vehicle went into a low power mode while I was at the gym and shut down its remote app start/unlock. I've not been driving it much, and when I do, the trips are often short. I charged the battery when I got home and no issues since. One thing to keep in mind if you're going to charge the battery. The BMS, battery management system, keeps track of the amount of charge going in and out of the battery and does this via a current probe on the negative battery clamp. So when you attach a battery charger you attach the positive clamp to the battery's + terminal and the negative clamp to a ground point (on my hybrid the battery is in the trunk and there are several ground straps I can attach to). This way the BMS sees the charge entering the battery and won't try to overcharge it later.

I agree with @leftoverture. I preferred the smaller size key fob from my 2014 Fusion vs my 2019 MKZH fob that is way to big and heavy for what it does.

I updated Sync successfully but when I go back to the Lincoln website to upload the XML file as per the "Step 3 confirm update" instructions I'm greeted with the following error. I've tried with both Firefox and Chrome so I fairly certain the issue is with the Lincoln website. Upload failed. Please try again later.

Thanks for this information. I just logged in and the update is also available for 2019 vehicles as well: Your SYNC system will be updated to SYNC3 v3.4.21020

When I purchased my MKZh new it needed a new battery as it sat on the lot so long that it destroyed the original battery. They put in a new Motorcraft battery. Typically hybrids are easy on the 12V battery as they only need the battery to power the electronics on the vehicle and do not need to crank the engine, so they tend to last a long time, yet that battery lasted just over a year! Recently I was having weird issues with the vehicle and the dealership said it was the battery. They replaced it under warranty and sure enough, the issues were gone. On that note, I had a 2014 Fusion Hybrid that still had its original battery six years after I bought it new when I traded it for the MKZh. So either the quality of Motorcraft batteries has slipped considerably or I was just unlikely. Either way, your battery needing replacement at 46 months doesn't seem that odd and luckily a cheap fix.

Were your doors locked when you walked up to vehicle? I believe the welcome/approach lights only turn on if the vehicle is locked.

I noticed today that I cannot lock or unlock any of the three passenger doors via Intelligent Access (IA). The driver's door lock and unlock using Intelligent Access works just fine so the FOB is OK (same issue using the spare FOB). The FOB's lock/unlock buttons works properly on all doors (1st push unlocks the driver's, 2nd push unlocks all, lock locks all four). Trunk opens when I push the trunk button on the trunk if I have the FOB when the car is locked, as expected. Keypad works as expected too. I know IA used to work but recently had 2019 MKZh in for an oil change and a rattle, not sure if that's related. I can't find any setting that disables IA on all doors except the driver's. Thoughts? Seems like a problem for the dealer to sort.

Furthering the story. IA again quit on all passenger doors. So this time I decided to disconnect the battery and fully recharge it. Put it back in the vehicle and did a BMS reset (ignition on without starting the car [don't press the brake], flash the high beam 5 times, then press the brake three times and you'll see the little red battery icon flash 3 or 4 times indicated the BMS was reset). That worked for about a day. I also noticed that if you sat in the vehicle after driving it and turned off the ignition without opening a door, the radio and center screen would cut out and die after about a minute instead of the usual 20 minutes, after that IA no longer worked on the passenger doors. So I went to the dealer and they diagnosed it as a failing battery. This is surprising as I tested the battery using a Schumacher BT-250 battery tester that has always reliably called out bad batteries vs good ones and the one year old battery showed up as good on it. Anyways, the dealer replaced the battery. If that's the fix then I guess I can't trust the BT-250, but if IA fails again, I'll go back to the dealer and report back here.

That's my plan. If it happens again, off to the dealer for further diagnosis.

As I thought more about the issue I figured I'd try a hard reboot of all the computers in the vehicle before taking it to the dealer. I disconnected the negative battery terminal for about an hour. Reconnected the battery and low and behold, IA now works on all doors. These really are rolling computers.

I installed these jacking rails: https://www.steeda.com/Steeda-Fusion-Jacking-Rails-CD4 They run along the length of the pinch welds and allow you to jack the vehicle at any point along the rail. You can raise one side of the vehicle using a floor jack in the middle of the rail and then slip jack stands at each end (front and back) of the rail if you want to work underneath the vehicle. Another benefit is my car no longer creaks when I back into my garage due to the uneven incline of my driveway meaning the body isn't flexing as it used to, which I think has to be good. Installation was a breeze and I did not have to jack the car up to install them.

This is also happening to my 2019.

I had a similar filter on my 2003 Sable that I replaced every 30K miles. Sold the car a long time ago but replacing it was easy. From memory: remove fuel pump fuse, start car, car will run for a few seconds and stall. Now you've relieved pressure in the fuel line. Gain access to the filter, and on each side of the filter there is a rubber hose connected via a U-style plastic clamp. I used a very small slotted screwdriver to open the legs of the clamp while prying it up. You don't remove the clamp, you just move it up to its next stop, about 4-5mm. Then the hoses will slip off. You may need to spin the filter a bit to loosen it from the rubber hoses. Install new filter with the arrow pointing towards the engine, push the clamps back down and you're done. Replace fuel pump fuse, turn ignition to run position and then off again a few times to allow the fuel pump to fill the filter and restore pressure (you should hear the pump priming each time you turn the key to run), then crank the engine and it'll fire up. Check for leaks and replace any trim/cover that you removed to gain access. Do this outside or with the garage door open as there will be gas in the filter. Have a catch can and rags at the ready. Ask me about how much fun it is to replace the fuel pump on your driveway! That happened on the Sable just shy of 90K miles. Learned my lesson, don't run your car with less than 1/8 or preferably 1/4 of a tank of gas as the pump sits in the fuel to cool itself. And I can only imagine how an overheated pump (due to a low fuel level) must like cold gas poured all over it when refueling, that fast expansion can't be doing it any good. I never ran out of gas but would often run to E and fill up along the highway. I think that shortened its life.

Are you starting the bleed process at the RR corner? Ensure you start at the RR, then LR, RF, and finally LF corners. I don't know if you have rear integral parking brake calipers but if you do, you need to apply and release the parking about five times before you open the rear bleeders. As long as the fluid in the master reservoir never goes below min the air should stop.

Thought I'd share how I hard wired a dash cam and radar detector to my 2019 MKZ HEV. I moved my wiring from my 2014 Fusion to the MKZ and captured a few pics that might help. Here's the end result. The Uniden R3 is small enough to still allow full use of the sun visor (no interference). I used a permanent stick on mount ($15 on ebay). Using a blow dryer and floss, you can remove them easily as I did moving from the Fusion to the MKZ. I love how neat the end result is. The yellow sticky note is to cover the serial number of my toll pass for this write-up. The detector uses a standard RJ11 telephone cord and runs off 12V so no voltage conversion is required. You can buy hardwire kits for Uniden and Beltronics/Escort on ebay. All seem to use the same RJ11 and luckily use the same pins and polarity for the 12V. I simply used an old telephone cord I had lying around. I figured out which pins were +12V and ground by measuring them using a voltmeter and the standard cigarette lighter adapter. The dash cam uses a mini-usb and as such needs a 12V to 5V converter. Available on ebay and Amazon they are 12V wires in and mini-usb 5V out. Below is a pic from the Fusion but the MKZ is almost exactly the same. The white foam on the right houses my USB voltage converter (about the size of a pack of wooden matches). The rest of the excess wiring tucks neatly into the available crevices. I apologize for the next pic but here's where I tapped the power. I soldered the two 12V wires together from the telephone wire and the USB converter together and did the same for the two grounds. I used two short lengths of green wire that I will use to tap the power and ground. I used heat shrink to ensure nothing shorts out. Strip about 3/8" of an inch of insulation and solder tin the wire. Then slip the tins ends into the back side of the following connector, 12V positive on the left, ground on the right. Since you tinned them it should be a nice tight fit as you push them into the back side of the connector. This friction fit contact worked great for the past 6 years and should do the same in the MKZ. Add/subtract solder tinning to get it to a nice snug fit. I then used one small zip tie around the wire bundle to hold the green wires from pulling out (not shown but would be place about an inch away from the connector). No bare wire should be exposed. The connector is located under the blue piece shown below. Simply pull at the top as shown. No need to remove the green piece. How to pull off the overhead console. On earlier models you'll need to release two clips as shown below. This was the case on my 2014. Don't just pull the console down and off or you'll ruin the attach points shown where the pick tool is and the console will end up popping off when you hit a bump. On my 2019 they improved the design and now the overhead console is held in with normal clips, so simply pull down on the rear of of the console (the end that faces the rear of the car) and start prying it away with your fingers, no tools needed. It should tilt down at the rear and then pull out completely. Unclip two connectors to get the console out of the way. OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS for the earlier models: Open the storage compartment. Push upwards on the rear of the console, use a 90 degree pick tool and release the RH and LH rear console clips. Finally, the connector I tapped is below. Pin 1 for +12V (hot in accessory and run) and pin 7, ground. The 12V circuit is fused and adding a few hundred milli-amps of load to the circuit is inconsequential. Remember, you're slipping the tinned wires into the backside of the connector, so you're not modifying/cutting/damaging anything. You're not affecting the connector in anyway. I hope someone finds this useful.

Decided to put a set of the Husky mats in the MKZ just like I had in the Fusion. Definitely better overall protection. Cut the driver side Husky mats anchors out to allow the factory mats to snap right in. The Husky mats fit better in the MKZ than they did in the Fusion (the part numbers were different for each). The Husky 2017-2019 MKZ p/n is 98791.

https://www.autotrader.com/best-cars/10-best-car-interiors-under-50000-2020-281474979988774

I agree that Husky Floor liners are very nice. I placed them in my Fusion and am contemplating a set for the MKZ. I'm not worried about snow and slush where I live so I ended up cutting holes in the driver's side Husky liner to allow the factory floor mat retainers to protrude high enough to allow the factory carpeted floor mat to still attach and anchor down. Looked better, IMHO, than just the rubber look of the liner. Also placed the passenger carpet mat over the Husky but without an anchor, the carpet mat did move around whenever a passenger exited the vehicle, no big deal really.

I love that Copper color. I really had a hard time choosing between Plat White and Copper. I think Copper looks so nice when clean but eventually went with Plat White as its easier to keep clean, a bit cooler in the summer, and doesn't show clearcoat swirl marks. Dealer had both in stock and ready to roll when I bought in January making it even a tougher decision, still debating if I made the right color choice!

Idiot_Driver.mp4 I almost needed my dash cam, though in reality this would have been cut and dry. Hard to believe someone would enter the freeway's 45MPH service road from a driveway without slowing down or even looking. Somehow I was able to avoid disaster by switching from the right lane to the middle lane in a nick of time as I honked to ensure the she didn't continue to swerve out into the middle lane. And the pièce de résistance? She flipped me off when she later passed me, perhaps upset that I honked at her. Classy. Next driveway was a Service Collision repair shop. In retrospect, quite convenient I suppose. I lowered the resolution of the video to keep the file size under 1MB.

I can't believe how dark TX law allows, 25% VLT (visible light through) for front left and right sides. Rear sides and rear glass have no restrictions as long as the vehicle has two side mirrors. Most people opt for 25% all around. Anything darker and you can't see at night. Personally, I prefer 35% all around which makes night time driving a bit easier.

I read you post and immediately did a Homer Simpson "Doh!" A week ago I wondered why my rear dash cam was lying on my back seat. Turns out I totally forgot about the sunshade when I installed it on the upper driver's side rear glass and when I used the sunshade it knocked the camera off the mount! The cameras I use front and back are the Viofo A119 https://www.amazon.com/Viofo-Camera-Degree-miniUSB-Adapter/dp/B01HVWXJPC/ which are similar in shape to the Crosstour. I chose the Viofo as it does not use a Lithium Polymer battery and instead uses super capacitors. The problem with Li-Po batteries is that they don't do well in the heat. Previous dash cams I've had survive only 18-24 months before their batteries swell. So far the Viofo has lasted well past the three year mark. I knew I needed to reposition the camera to the center of the rear window where there's a bit more clearance. My rear window is tinted. I had cut a small square out of the tint to mount the camera so I figured I'll just leave the GPS mount where it is and use the slimmer non-GPS mount that comes with the Viofo camera in the center. I know from experience on a previous vehicle that if you stick the camera on the tint, over time, the tint will pull away from the glass. The tint is dark so you really can't see the camera from outside of the vehicle which is nice. Luckily I left enough slack in the power cable to reach. BTW, I used a USB hard-wire kit and tapped into the fused power supply for the rear-heated seat module which gets power only when in accessory or ignition. So I mounted the camera in the center and the darn sunshade still hits it. Solution was to put two small strips of thin black foam on each side of the glass. The sunshade's little rollers glide over the foam pads that are about 2mm thick and the sunshade still slightly taps the camera's body but clears it well enough. You can't see the foam from outside due to the dark tint (unless you're really looking for it) nor can you really see them from the rear view mirror as they're hidden by the headliner. I did lose the GPS function which means the date/time won't be accurate, so I turned off recording date/time on the video. Thank you for posting your experience!