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About CDW6212R

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    East Tennessee
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  1. CDW6212R

    3M Clear Bra

    That's a cool idea, the leaf blower for drying. I've got a C3 blower I prefer over the gas powered one. I'll try that next time I wash my nice cars. I've got a $15 a month anytime deal at the local Zips car wash, for my daily driver work truck. So I haven't washed anything since last Summer, it's time to.
  2. CDW6212R

    Livernois tune for 3.0TT MKZ

    I just read of a new 7.3 liter engine Ford is developing. I hear it'll be an F150 engine choice but will fit a Mustang. It's evidently going to be a pushrod V8, sounds like a step back to the traditional smaller SBF size, with modern variable valve timing etc. That's what the Chevy LS engines are now, modern SBC's with new tech, plus heads patterned after the old Cleveland heads, which dominate NASCAR, since 1975. Maybe that new Ford engine might be a Mustang choice, we should know in a couple of years.
  3. CDW6212R

    The End of my 2017 MKZ

    Good planning. Take good care of the spare armrest too, keep it treated with a leather preservative etc. I had my old one saved from my 91 LSC SE, but in the garage and not treated since my wreck in 1997. The leather is pretty hard and rough compared to when I removed it in 1998. Untreated even nice leather will go bad, stored away out of the weather.
  4. CDW6212R


    Fuel is not as good during the Winter, and the changing of blends with an unlucky fill up(tank with old gas) can make any car run poorly for a while. Try to find stations which sell real gas, no alcohol gas. I don't need premium for my cars right now, but I have a station close that has real gas for 5 cents less than their premium with alcohol. They source the real gas from a different vendor, and the prices are unrelated. I'd buy the premium if the engine is made to take advantage of it, but it's a waste if it's not.
  5. CDW6212R

    2017, 19" wheel max tire with

    Each 10mm gain in section width is right at about 1/2" in diameter gain. The profile factor(the series(40)), it's worth about 1" per step. So the 255/40/19 is about 1/2" taller than the stock 245/40/19 tires.
  6. CDW6212R

    New Owner - 2017 MKZ 3.0 AWD

    Thanks for the link to the main description of the TSB, that helps. Curious too, do you know if the correction was a new head design etc, or an assembly repair or change?
  7. CDW6212R

    New Owner - 2017 MKZ 3.0 AWD

    Good trade then Scott, you found the one that fit the goals. I still wonder about the 3.0 engine TSB, if it's every 2017 or just some. I found two 17's south of me with plenty of miles on them, I'm not ready to contact anyone to ask how the TSB could work for a used purchase, I still have lots of estate work to do, and my work vehicle rebuild. I know more about what to look for now, thanks to you guys here for the details of the driver's package etc.
  8. CDW6212R

    New Owner - 2017 MKZ 3.0 AWD

    Well thanks, that explains it, though that is dumb. But I'm used to Ford doing such dumb things, so it isn't a surprise. I have a 92 Mark VII that I'm slowly working on, and a few years back I discovered the left door trim has a space for a memory seat switch to bolt into. I have the switch for it now, a NOS part that came on Continentals of the same chassis. They obviously never made a Mark VII with a memory seat, but the feature was on some Continentals. So I'll fix that oversight along the way when I do some rewiring. That's a relatively easy modification. The newer cars have way too many integrated electrical parts and systems to retrofit anything after purchase. You basically have to live with what it comes with.
  9. CDW6212R

    New Owner - 2017 MKZ 3.0 AWD

    Welcome and congrats on the trade, I hope you love the car for a long time. I'm still surfing the internet occasionally for a blue AWD TT. I haven't yet seen one with the Driver's Package and a white interior, except one used 2017 in GA recently. What does that Driver's Package do in fine details mechanically etc? I have not driven one yet, just read and heard the few reviews by others online. I have a black label 2018 here locally that my dealer wants me to come try out. It has everything but that package of course. I might have to decide between the more common versions without the package. Very few cars people chose to pay for that, given the number of chrome grilles I have seen.
  10. CDW6212R

    What’s your next car?

    I also prefer to buy my cars with a few years and 60-100k in them. I had been aiming for a 2017/18 MKZ since they were revealed, but after about the four year old mark. That's not far off, but I'm getting older and this could be my last car. I've been searching around for a high optioned reserve, in blue with white interior, and the 3.0 AWD. Those are very rare I see from what's available. My local dealer has a 2018 black label, but it doesn't have the Driver's Package. I'd like to go see it closely, but I'm not in a rush at all, so much other stuff to do at home.
  11. CDW6212R

    Conversion possible??

    The difference in transmissions like that is typically the output shaft and tail housing, which are interchangeable. In this drivetrain layout, I doubt it's that simple though. You should not want to do away with the rear drive. But someone should be able to tell you if that FWD trans can be used to rebuild your AWD trans. The big issue is the damage caused by driving any automatic after it malfunctions. People all seem to keep driving until the car won't go any longer. That extra distance driven after the first symptom, is why most rebuilt transmissions don't last as long. The worst damage is not from the initial problem/cause, it's from the excess heat and contamination by driving it with a symptom. When ever an automatic car stops shifting properly, stop driving it immediately, get it to a safe place very quickly, and fix it then. If the old trans is actually burned up inside in any way, using parts from a different trans is wise. The valve body and all the tiny components inside are fragile, any debris in the fluid creates excessive wear of those parts, which is not visible to most rebuilders. They just clean out the material, and put it back together, hoping there's no damage to the small parts. If it shifts "okay" when they test drive it, they consider that a successful rebuild.
  12. CDW6212R

    12V battery upgrade

    Measure the space available behind the tray, to be sure the battery you have is going to fit. Then remove the tray, it looks like those three bolts should let it come out. Then you can work on the tray much easier out of the car, and clean it well too, plus your hands from handling it. Most plastics can be cut easily with rotary tools, but it melts a little as it goes. So trim it roughly near where you want it, and use either a rotary bit/tool to smooth the edges, or a file(much slower).
  13. CDW6212R

    Sport Tuned Suspension Question

    Interesting. My list of wanted options is growing.
  14. That's good stuff to know, I'm just beginning to browse details about the 17+ MKZ's. I like to see the 13.5" rotor size, that means almost any 17" wheel can fit. Up to the .75" size that is, so if you go to a 14" something, you can go to 14.75" and still fit an 18" wheel. Some people do Winter wheels a lot, and using a smaller wheel can save money and difficulty finding wheels/tires. I'm in that boat with my mail trucks, I have custom 12.75" rotors on one truck, so a 16" OEM Limited wheel is great for my snow tires. To hunt bigger calipers, try very hard to stick with all street applications, for a kit caliper etc. Those and OEM calipers all have street piston seals. Race calipers will only have race piston seals, which don't have the outer second seal to keep out more dust etc. I'm got a pair of them on my mail truck, and the Wilwood GN III's I;m going to soon also have race seals. Those have to be more carefully cared for, cleaned more often, keep the seam of the pistons clean and not corroding etc. So far I've done well with the one set, since 2005 with them. Servicing the pads takes longer, an extra 20-30 minutes per caliper to clean them and behind the SS plates which the pads ride against. It's all worth it to me, but many people will not want to deal with such race caliper servicing, so try to stick with street type calipers. Here's one of the 6-pot calipers I have to adapt. These are made for a 1.375" rotor, and have about 5.5sqin or piston area. The .80" thick #7520 pads were what I was after, for longer pad life.
  15. Well done, and thanks for the feedback. The brake fluid and pads are key/critical components of any braking system. The fluid should be replaced as often as you can make the time to do it once a year or two. It depends on usage as to how long the fluid should be left unchanged. I've been a mail carrier since 1991, I've seen and heard it all about brakes. I change fluids in general much more often then other people, brake fluid for my mail trucks, a year is pushing what it needs. Doing it that often is hard, I try to do it every Spring. I've had good pads and poor quality junk. Most parts store pads are junk, good warrantee or not. I stopped buying those pads in the mid 90's when I got my own full time route. I buy the best pads I can get, which will last the longest, to reduce how often I have to do brakes. Typically for me that's every 1-2 years, depending on what route I've been on. My current route has had subs who do brakes once every month or two, they buy the cheap brakes and let some shop do the work each time. I'm using an OEM pad at the moment on my 98 Explorer, 4500lbs, and before this route I could get a year or more from the fronts. I'm hoping they'll go six months on this route. Long story short buy the best pads, I've usually preferred EBC pads, the green are common and do well on my heavy SUV's. My 98 Mercury I have custom brakes, with an aftermarket SSBC caliper, that uses a little 3000GT pad. Those are smaller than stock, and I've been using red or yellow EBC pads with it. I don't have an MKZ yet, but I will next Spring I expect. I'll plan to replace the fluids and do the SS lines too. Did that include the rear lines also, or just the front pair?