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Slee_Stack

MKZ Member
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    16
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  • My MKZ's Year
    2015
  • My MKZ
    MKZ 2.0L EcoBoost

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  1. I thought about swapping the old console wiring harness to the new console. I went so far as removing the old harness. Maybe I'll try installing it to the new console someday. Does everything else work on the new console with the old harness?
  2. I'm not sure. I would guess YES since most sides of the console are physically the same. Only the top portion (cupholder/armrest) seems to have changed. Keep in mind the wiring issues when swapping to the new console. The key sensor and heated seats will work. Everything else won't.
  3. That's a handy reference. I haven't yet found a wiring diagram though. Any idea if/where one exists? If I could get that, I'd go back and fix the ambient on my console.
  4. The 2017+ cupholder is too deep for the pre 2017 floor console. It won't fit. You can't just swap the top cupholder pieces either. The new cupholder has one deep door. The old cupholder has two shallower doors. By the way, that ebay link showed $200 for the cupholder. That's pretty expensive. I got my entire floor console for $201 shipped. Just hunt around.
  5. Slee_Stack

    SYNC2 to SYNC3 upgrade

    I bought the tune from Unleashed Tuning. Ultimately, max HP and torque is increased to around 270HP and 310 Nm torque (with 93 octane at the engine). Top speed limiter is also removed but I wouldn't ever test that out. The transmission is modified with the tune as well. Shifts can be VERY firm, particularly in Sport mode. Supposedly that's better on the transmission and some people prefer the feel. You can adjust the shift pressure for each gear change to your liking with the programmer though. I've dialed mine back closer to a stock feel. It hasn't fixed the generally crummy 2nd-3rd shift the MKZ 6F35 is known for though. You can get it a little better, but its still there under the right conditions.
  6. Slee_Stack

    SYNC2 to SYNC3 upgrade

    I'm not sure you'll find many who prefer Sync 2, but if you aren't much of a smartphone user, the appeal of Sync 3 is lesser. Its still a far superior interface (you won't find a single review that says otherwise) and its available with regular Navigation built-in. Incidentally, google maps uses very little data so it wouldn't drain a limited plan anyway. Media streaming (or offline downloading) is what kills a data plan. Sync 3 has vastly improved screen responsiveness. Sync 2 lag was very frustrating to me. I never really knew what level the heated or cooled seats would turn on to...or if they would even turn on at all. You really have to press intently on the Sync 2 screen to make it respond. A second or two later you'll know if you were successful. Arrgh! The newer screen collects less oil/smears too. As to the 2.0T....mine is actually faster than the 3.7 and averages 26+ mpg. Admittedly, that's with a +30-40 HP tune and AWD. Its not easy (or cheap) to get extra power out of the 3.7. The 3.0T is another story....that thing's a monster. Longevity of a tweaked 2.0T could be a concern, but seeing as my 2015 just turned 50k, I'm not too worried about it needing to last to 200k. I highly doubt Lincoln spent money to change seats, tracks, or the steering column on a final model year vehicle. Perhaps your loaner had some issues. In the end, its cool that you like your car better than a newer one. I probably wouldn't buy a newer one just to get features either. However, I'm more than happy to tweak whatever I already have to make it nicer. Its why I have a tune, Sync 3 and an updated FCIM in my 2015. For $1k all-in, they are seriously nice upgrades. Granted I'm also HOURS in since I did all the labor myself. I love Android Auto mainly for Google Maps with its real time traffic and re-route options. Built-in Nav is just terrible about that...even if you pay extra for SiriusXM traffic.
  7. Some wire colors:
  8. This has been an adventure. I installed the 2017 armrest floor console along with a 2018 FCIM into my 2015 MKZ The good: Mechanically changing the floor console is pretty easy. No need to remove seats. All the mounting points are the same. All original side trim panels fit. Key sensor works. Rear heated seat buttons work. The bad: While the physical plugs are the same, the wiring harnesses on the floor console are wired differently. Generally, the newer console has more wires. Nothing electrical besides the key sensor and heated seat buttons work. No ambient lighting, cubby light, USB charge ports, cig lighters. One fix (the important one): I did figure out how to get the new AA USB ports to work. I had to splice one wire (yellow w/ blue stripe) from the passenger side vehicle harness to the driver side floor console connector. They are the same color combo on both. There's another unconnected white w/ blue wire on the driver side, but its not needed to enable the AA usb ports. Unfortunately it doesn't help any other issue, even if you do run a spice for it. The USB cable (from the APIM) also needs to be re-routed from the passenger to driver side, but its easy. Learning Experience?: There are many new wires on the passenger side floor console harness that don't connect to anything from the old vehicle side (empty sockets). The old console could run nearly all of this short of (2) plain USB power ports! Why the changes??. As it stands I have my two AA USB ports functional and the new FCIM and Sync 3.3 with full matching trim. I've lost my ambient cup-holder and floor console lighting which sucks a little, but I'll live with that trade off. I like the newer FCIM much better than the old. When using AA, its so much nicer to have direct button access to climate, radio, and seat controls. I'd love to get it all back working, but suspect it'd be too much investigation, and many splices. I' did map some of the color wires and will post those at some point.
  9. Slee_Stack

    CPO checklist

    I'm pretty sure my checklist was pencil-whipped, but at the time I purchased, I was more interested in getting a CPO for the lower finance rate. I'll be out of CPO warranty in July.
  10. Slee_Stack

    14 MKZ - SYNC2 - SYNC3 Bezel

    Yes the old FCIM sliders and touch buttons work fine with a Sync 3 APIM. That's how my 2015 MKZ is setup at the moment. I do want to upgrade to the newer FCIM. The non-touch is more ergonomic. Also, the old hub works perfectly with Android Auto (bottom USB port only). It supposedly has slow charge (0.5a) vs 1.0A on newer ones. The old hub doesn't have an apple chip which is what causes the 'USB hub' error on start-up. Obviously, the old hub won't work with Apple Carplay.
  11. Slee_Stack

    SYNC2 to SYNC3 upgrade

    $3600 is outright insane. Frankly, I think $1000+ is overpriced. The China price of $600ish is the max you should pay. $500 or (much) less for APIM/screen/hub/adapter is easy to achieve if you buy a used APIM.
  12. Slee_Stack

    FORSCAN HELP PLEASE

    If you come through Atlanta, I might be able to assist. I've screwed around with the APIM a bunch. I've also modified other things (DRL, heated SW temp...), but not recently. I wouldn't charge anything, but as to everything Forscan...all risk assumed is on your part. If you know the settings you want uploaded and which module they apply to, it is pretty easy. Worst case, its looking at the spreadsheet reference, so its still pretty easy.
  13. Slee_Stack

    SYNC 3 - upgrade costs

    I suggest becoming comfortable with Forscan before doing an upgrade. You will need either a wired or bluetooth OBD dongle. I use an OBDLink MX BT dongle. It works fine on Windows and Android. Used APIMs are relatively cheap and features can be 'added back or deleted' if you get an APIM that came out of a differently equipped vehicle. I went from a Sync 2 Nav APIM to a 2018 MKZ Sync 3.0 non-Nav unit. On a side note, the brackets that came with it fit perfectly to my old style FCIM. After changing the APIM, I had to enable cooled seats, the heated steering wheel, and ambient lighting on the new unit. This was all done with Forscan. If you backed up all your 'as-built' settings before changing the APIM (and you should back-up!), then you just need to let Forscan 're-scan' your car and then you can change the new APIM settings fairly easily. I also updated it to Sync 3.3 via the Cyanlabs tool and a 16gb USB drive. I stopped short of going to Sync 3.4 because I prefer the brown color theme of 3.3 vs the gray one of 3.4. I don't use an Apple so I even still have my original USB hub installed. AA works fine although supposedly the old port only charges at 500ma. Newer ones charge at 1 amp. The new Sync will chastise me occasionally about not have a proper apple-chip equipped USB hub. Its mildly annoying, but dismissable. At some point I'll get a proper hub in. Dang PITA apple products! Even when you don't use one, they still get you... As to costs...if you just do the APIM/Screen swap (no FCIM)...and are OK with learning the (free) Forscan app...you can do it all-in for as low as $250. A wired OBD adapter is <$50 and a new GPS cable ($10) is all you really need. Obviously you have to find a functional APIM...preferably from an MKZ...but there are a lot out there from many junkyards...on ebay...etc.
  14. Slee_Stack

    14 MKZ - SYNC2 - SYNC3 Bezel

    The pre 2017 bezel controls work perfectly fine with Sync 3. The old style USB hub works with Sync 3 (AA functions via lower USB port) but an error will pop-up on screen at start up (due to not having an Apple chip). Carplay will not function as it requires the Apple chip be present in the hub.
  15. While the FCIM/APIM ended up fully functional, it was missing the side silver trim along the edges. My bad for not noticing that in photos, but what a pain. My whole plan basically fell apart. Unfortunately the side silver trim pieces seem to be integral to the FCIM and not order-able separately. I ended up pulling the APIM and installing it in my old FCIM. After fooling around with settings I got all the options to function. The Ambient light was the biggest pain, but I finally figured out to enable it. Basically I had to rescan the car after the new APIM was installed in Forscan and THEN enable the feature afterwards in the APIM. The old USB hub works just fine with Android Auto. Use the lower port. The upper one only charges and does not work with AA. The APIM throws a 'USB hub' warning occasionally though. It turns out the error is caused by NOT having an apple chip in the hub. Thanks Apple! I decided I do prefer the new style FCIM and since I have the whole matching console sitting idle, I'll keep looking for a relatively cheap one to purchase. I also upgraded to Sync 3.3 using the Cyanlabs tool. I could go to 3.4 but I prefer the brown color theme of 3.3.
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