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About DeviLSh

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    U.S. Great Lakes
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  • My MKZ's Year

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  1. Loving the grills, nice work
  2. DeviLSh

    FS: 2014 MKZ 3.7 AWD - Grey / Black - Chicago

    Bumping this thread, as I am going to be listing the car again soon. Cannot get the next car until this one is gone!Car now has 63k on it - Still 37k left of CPO coverage from Lincoln (or about 3 years) Would like to get $18k for it. Will consider offers! Recent Maint/Work includes: 5/31/19: Oil Change, Tire Rotation, Rear Sway Bar bushings (steeda). Interior 5/1/19: H&R Springs, Motorcraft Rear Shocks, Rear Rotors & Pads, Front Strut mounts & Bearings, Motorcraft rear wheel bearings. Alignment performed. Car rides like new, with some enhanced looks and sportier ride. (not too harsh at all) 9/18/18: Water Pump performed by Lincoln due to small leak, Airbag recall performed, and engine/transmission inspected when removed for peace of mind. Still averages about 20-21 city, pulls strong. Only issues are the pano roof side panels are peeling (deteriorating finish) and front brakes will need to be changed in 10-15k most likely. Also, rear window regulator went out, but I will getting that fixed soon. Thanks and share with all your friends.
  3. DeviLSh

    CPO Program

    MY CPO paperwork states a transfer fee for $100, I paid the same fee to have my LS' coverage trasnferred as well.
  4. DeviLSh

    Rust on door seams

    Just found this on my MKZ today, front passenger door. but mine is on the vertical section of the door, bottoms look great. Lifting paint, and some surface rust has began. Warranty booklet says 5 years for paint/corrosion, looks like I could be out of luck. My CPO coverage also excludes corrosion. Gah
  5. DeviLSh

    DRL fogs on base model

    If you havent already browsed through this, do so: http://www.2gfusions.net/showthread.php?tid=4573 I have been trying to figure out how to run amber DRL's (like early year base models) on my 2014 for a while with no luck. I was able to find the menus and coding via FOrScan, but the setting changes I made per the fusion how-to guide did not allow me to implement the change. Sounds like we have opposite goals, you want to add signature lighting, and I want to use turn signals as DRL's (swap my white drls for the ambers, and use only amber for signals and DRL) Maybe we can get somewhere together. What year car are you?
  6. DeviLSh

    Devin's 2014 MKZ

    Hey guys, quick update on the MKZ Intake: Heat shield prototype is holding up great, so I am looking into new materials to fab my final version. Will probably use a combination of sheet aluminum and DEi's barrier mats/shielding. 3.7 Custom Tune: I am working with a specialty SCT tuner to try and get a 93 oct tune made for the MKZ. The mustang, F150, and allegedly an MKX owner out there have all seen great gains and driving dynamics (throttle mapping mostly) from tuning the 3.7. Next week, my LS comes out of storage, so I need to flash that car to stock, scan the MKZ, and send the stock data to SCT. The ECU strategy on my car is not yet available in the database it appears. Hopefully I can make this happen and get a little more power out of the car. While no 3.0TT the NatAsp 3.7 is very enjoyable. I would like to liven it up a bit and trail-blaze if you will. Hopefully by Mid-May I will more info on this. Maybe even a dyno or track visit to get some real data on power change. Springs: Car is still riding GREAT on the H&R's. I know Willie (member on here) who tried these out did not like them, but I cannot see why after running them for a while now. I have already become accustomed to the ride, and love the change. The car has settled and sits very nicely. Watching it drive down the road looks very.. majestic. The MKZ's lines and flow work very well with a lowered stance. Spacers & Bearings & Studs: I mentioned above one of my rear studs snapped after the spring install. I confirmed the only way to swap studs on the Fusion/MKZ is to remove the bearing assembly, and press out studs. So, I decided if I was going to swap out studs, might as well go bigger. I ordered a set of H&R spacers for the front and rear. 5mm and 10mm, respectively. These come with new studs (longer) for proper thread engagement. The fun part though, was that removing the 60K bearing housings from the aluminum knuckles meant not being able to salvage, so I had to purchase new rear bearing housings for this swap. While costly, I now have new Motorcraft wheel bearings, with H&R studs and spacers. The car's stance is near perfect for me. Very happy with the results. After a proper 4-wheel alignment, and some warmer temps, I have been able to fully enjoy the car with the new shocks, springs, spacers, and intake. Still in love with this car after nearly 3 years of ownership. Picture after spacers and some settling: Question for the group: Has anyone successfully painted, vinvyl'd, or replaced the pano panels on this car? Mine are all faded and chipped, and of course - not covered under CPO.
  7. DeviLSh

    Devin's 2014 MKZ

    Here are some status shots of my project. Using thin sheet metal, tracing out a cardboard template, and then cutting with some tin snips, I was able to fab up a nice heat-shield for the intake. A few test drives in and everything has remained in tact, no rattles or rubbing. I am utilizing the OEM air shroud that draws air in from the grill area as well. The bay gets very hot with the engine to the side and the trans below. The final version will have some heat/tape insulating paneling underneath and on the back to further insulate. This shield also gives the intake something to rest on and remain secure under engine movement. A round clamp with a bracket attached may also be a great addition for good measure. If anyone has some tips on what tool to use for easily cutting the next (thicker) version, I would appreciate some insight.
  8. DeviLSh

    Devin's 2014 MKZ

    Glad to see you are still lurking Zalvern 🙂 Update on cool stuff: I have started to fab up a home-made heat shield and mounting system for the Edge/Explorer AfE intake I am running, I am currently running my first version out of thin 28ga aluminum, if I like this, I will make version2 out of something thicker and improve the mounting. Pics soon... H&R spacers arrive today, 5mm front and 10mm rear. Should dial in the stance nicely and fill some fender gap. In discussion with a tuner on getting a engine/trans tune made for the car. My car is not yet in the SCT database, so we need to start from ground up. Apparently, there are some MKX 3.7 owners out there who have tuned their cars, and benefited from all the mustang knowledge out there. More on this later, I have to pull data from my LS's xcal and send to SCT. I mentioned that I broke a wheel stud when reinstalling wheels after the springs. According to the service manual, the only way to swap out studs, is via removing the hub/bearing assembly from the knuckle. So I have to remove brakes, and axle nut/outer cups. (ugh). This is all thanks to the poor lug design, and "someone" over torquing the lugs. I suppose I had my hand in this too. Was hoping there would be an access window at each corner allowing me to individually remove each stud, but it looks like a hub removal and press is the only way this is happening. Let me know if anyone can confirm this for me! at 62k in a Chicago car - do I even want to assume I can get these bearings out of the knuckles without damaging them?
  9. DeviLSh

    Devin's 2014 MKZ

    Thanks! Yes, this season has been pretty brutal with the 2018/2019 TCJA changes and such. Working on the car is.... theraputic in a way. 🙂 Joe - I saw your lease swap thread and cried out for a second - "NO!" Glad to see you've still got it. I test drove a lightly used 3.0TT w/ driver's pkg and no sunroof a month or so ago. It was.... divine. Honestly it sent me down a rabbit hole and I almost got one. But with how many miles I have put on my Z, I am not in a positive trade situation, plus i have some other projects going on so I decided to wait and have some more fun with this car. So that's what I am doing.
  10. DeviLSh

    Devin's 2014 MKZ

    Thanks Izzy - if you decide to take this on, set a full day aside for it if you dont have a lift/quickjack/etc. The rears will take a bit, fronts are easier. Let me know if I can provide further direction for you if & when that day comes. Thanks Joe, the rears also have DCC, the wiring goes from the bottom of the shock and clips into the rear lower control arms until it meets its chassis side connection on the rear subframe. Glad to see you guys are still on here! Debating if I want to paint my upper grille centers black once it gets warmer. I like the black label look. Also still chasing the idea of getting amber DRL's. Need to do another deep dive on that soon.
  11. DeviLSh

    Devin's 2014 MKZ

    Comparison - Stock vs H&R's
  12. DeviLSh

    Devin's 2014 MKZ

    Hey guys - Still here, and the MKZ is approaching the 62k mi mark. Started noticing clunks/noises over bumps from the rear, so I took it in for a diagnosis - they confirmed my suspicion of blown rear shocks - which of course, are NOT covered under CPO coverage, even though the fronts are. How convenient. $1,200 was the quote from the dealer, so I declined, and ordered the following from RockAuto - Two rear motorcraft struts, rear mounts, and front strut mounts and bearings. At the same time, I ordered a set of H&R sport springs from Tire Rack. I figured I might as well make lemonade out of this scenario. I finished the install this weekend and so far I am loving the car on the new springs. Firm but not harsh, handling, response and body roll dramatically improved. Still feels civil, especially in "D" mode. I still came in at under $1,200 for all parts and I got much more out of it than I would have if I just had the dealer do it, so I am feeling good! I have had rear brake noise for a while, so I took this opportunity to tackle the rear brake job as well. See below for some pictures and additional info. Let me know if I can answer any questions on the springs/hardware. These are the same part# for the FFS, and mkz 3.0TT too, so if any of the MY17+ guys have questions, I can try to answer. Install Pics & Comments: To start off, I had to put the rear brakes in maintenance mode, and get the lugs off. It appears my car is a victim of the dual-layer lug nut failure. Had to pry off the exterior layer of 1/20 lugs. The others came off by hammering the socket on, and using brute force to loosen. Installed a set of 20 new Dorman lugs. None of the OEM's were salvageable. Rear brakes were straight forward. The rotors have a threaded hole for popping them off the hubs, worked flawlessly. Pad swap was simple, and I re-greased the slide pins since they were a little dry. Pads were less than 3mm, indicators long gone, it was TIME - haha Rear Springs - I thought this would be easy, but it took us a while to get this done. After removing the shock's electrical harness, and unbolting the shock, you will need to unbolt the sway bar, outward lower control arm hardware (3 per side), belly pans, and finally, the rear subframe hardware! Supporting the RSF with a jack, threading out the bolts, the entire assembly lowers enough to let the springs come out. Note the 6-7" gap between chassis and sub-frame. Side by side, OEM vs H&R And installed, along with new Rotors. Fronts - MUCH easier, get the wheel off, unbolt the upper sway link, unplug drive control harness and brake line bracket. Then loosen the lower strut bolts (2) and upper mount nolts (3). After this, the assembly comes out easily. Compress the springs and swap over the upper mounts. And we are good to go. **Be careful to note the orientation of the upper mounts.** After getting the car back on the ground (had to use a pinchweld adapter for my jack to clear side skirts) installing all new lug nuts, (Broke a stud in the process), the car was wheeled out of the garage for the first look. LOWER! After a couple days of settling and test drives - here is how she sits One final shot! H&R says 1.4" in front, and 1.3" in rear. I'd day its about an inch all around, but it may settle more. I will take final measurements after my alignment and some more break-in driving. Looking to address the final look, and ordered a set of 5 & 10mm spacers. Hopefully those will be on next week. I will update with pics. Looking into front brakes next, those weren't nearly as bad, but they will need to be done soon. Thanks for checking in - just found out my rear-pass window regulator isn't working, so a new project is on the horizon. -devin
  13. DeviLSh


    I also had an issue getting the 21mm bolt out. Used a 4ft breaker bar and a buddy on each side of the car to "row" the bar while I placed upward pressure on the socket to prevent slipping. We also shielded the area above the subframe and used some heat to loosen the oem loctite. Thankfully, mine broke free and didn't snap like the OP. Good to know of the idle raise. I found the car to be fine, except at idle and have since removed my mount. I might reinstall though and try to get a custom tune for the car in the future to mitigate this. (I am a 3.7 though!)
  14. DeviLSh

    Devin's 2014 MKZ

    RAB - thanks for the info, I will ask my dealer to see if they can sneak this into the CPO, but I believe you are correct in that I am S.O.L. on this being covered now that im over 50k. Car is back from the shop - the entire engine assembly was removed for the waterpump job, and maybe more since they also performed an alignment. (steering wheel is not straight, so I have to take it back, ugh). So far, i still am getting some faint coolant odor when the car is running, but the tank level seems to be holding. I will have to keep an eye on it, and I hope the smell is residual fluid from the previous leak burning off.
  15. DeviLSh

    Devin's 2014 MKZ

    Update (wow last time I was in here was in April!) The car is aging very well, and still loving how it drives. I have since removed the trans mount (because it went in for service) so if anyone is interested that is still for sale and will fi the 32.7tt/3.0tt/3.7 mkz and mkx. PM an offer ill let it go for cheap. Couple things to note: The 4 small panels that surround the pano roof are all "peeling" there is a very clear deterioration forming on each panel. It looks like peeling window tint or failing paint. Anyone successfully gone through Lincoln for this? The MKZ just rolled over 53k so I took it in for its next scheduled oil change. I noticed in the past few days, a coolant smell and the reservoir was really low (below min line) last night. Dealer just called and said the water pump needs to be replaced. Anyone else seen this on the 3.7? Apparently they need to pull the timing cover so its a big job. Also, I am about due for brakes - anything I need to know for doing the rear pads/rotors in terms of dealing with the ERPB? About to order parts and double check some DIY's.