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  1. jmcgliss

    New NHTSA Recall Number 19V632

    Thanks for posting. Our 2015 shows two open recalls from August 2019 - the seat belt pretensioners and steering gear bolts.
  2. jmcgliss

    just had a used MKZ delivered today!

    Congrats and enjoy your unique MKZ.
  3. jmcgliss

    Battery Drain?

    Use the topic search to find my post (and pictures) about another possible cause of recurring battery drain. The damper arm on the glove box door turns off the light switch inside the glove box - unless it is broken or missing by a previous owner or dealer when replacing the cabin air filter. I order a new arm from eBay and riveted it n place for peace of mind.
  4. jmcgliss

    Spare tire in a mkz hybrid

    Now you're ready for Step 2. Have you checked all your lug nuts for the selling problem? Some Ford owners have had problems with the stainless covers expanding or deforming to where a lug wrench will not fit.
  5. jmcgliss

    C8 Corvette's Reveal

    The C8 is a great performance value for track day use. But I'm too attached to Mustangs. First car was a '67 convertible 289. Ran an SVT Cobra track car for ten years and made a lot of friends around the midwest. I do regret not making a play for a 2005-06 Ford GT. Got to hot lap one for a weekend at Ford's expense and the values have only gone up.
  6. We purchased our 2015 MKZ 2.0 as a presumably well-cared for example from a conscientious dealer. You know the story: "23,000 miles. Ford rep-owned, clean CarFax, available service history, recalls completed." However, here's a run-down of faults and cost-cutting moves since 2018 that make us wonder what nuisance will happen next. 1. Battery failure at 4 years or so. OK, that's within range of normal life for these cars. 2. Battery failure #2. Traced to a broken/missing glove box actuator arm that allowed the glove box light to remain on. Someone botched the cabin air filter job. Repaired this myself. 3. Fuel filler door hinge failure. It's an annoying job to get this out of the fender, but I did not want the dealer scratching the paint or losing fasteners. Ford uses a cheap plastic pin that walk itself out of the hinge. A cotter pin or some positive means of capturing the pin is required. BTW, gravity helps the pin fall out, so that makes two design-to-fail decisions with this component. 4. Inner fender liner quality. Ford uses a compressed fiber material that holds tons of dirt, dust, and moisture. When you remove the liner (to remove the fuel door component), dust falls into the brakes, onto the paint, into your lungs, etc. Why can't this be non-porous plastic? Soundproofing? Perhaps ,since there is a "pillow" of soundproofing inside the fender - but the liner itself is a dirt trap. 5. Steering wheel nut recall. Seriously? After the repair, we heard a rattle inside the air bag section, requiring a second visit and air bag replacement under warranty. 6. Electronic gauge cluster flickering. Just before the 4-year BTB warranty expired, the dash cluster fizzled out, needing replacement (two trips to the dealer). 7. Lug nuts. Swollen lug nuts has been a known problem for decades. I replaced ours this week in preparation for a trip. Four out of twenty were swollen, but could be removed with persistence. One was severe, however, and required hammering on an impact socket. Not something one should deal with if a tire goes flat away from home - or when having tires rotated. It just boggles the mind that what appears to be a well-cared, low-mileage, Lincoln-serviced car should have this many faults. What will be the next surprise?
  7. jmcgliss

    auto insurance plug-in monitor

    Insurance companies can make mistakes, and some companies access credit reports to influence your rates. So, mixing you up with someone with the same name could have an effect on your premiums. We caught an error on our policy (can't remember what it was) but I made them prove that the head office had corrected our profile.
  8. jmcgliss

    auto insurance plug-in monitor

    Do they want to, or are just saying that you have to?
  9. jmcgliss

    2018 MKZ Filter Cabin replacement

    How far did you get with removing the side panel and glove box? For peace of mind, one thing to check when working in the cabin filter area is the glove box swing arm and stop that actuates the glove box lamp. When changing the cabin filter in our 2015, I discovered a previous owner or tech broke or removed the part that turns the lamp switch off - causing battery drain. Thread:
  10. jmcgliss

    Gas door

    Our 2015 MKZ fuel door broke today when I opened the door to dry inside after hand washing. It happened one day after our factory 4-year warranty expired, but the car only has 26,000 miles. Disappointed a part that has to work once every week or two would be this fragile. Update: I ordered a new fuel pocket but decided to repair the original one. The plastic hinge pin backs itself out. Solution? Drilling 5/64" hole for a small cotter pin. Having nylon trim panel tools was essential since the tabs that hold the pocket in place are not accessible from inside the fender. A large rubber sleeve that holds the pocket in place can be dislodged from inside the fender. Removing the inner fender liner also allows you to loosen the fuel pipe and overflow tube for the extra wiggle room you'll need to remove and reinstall the fuel pocket.
  11. jmcgliss

    Instrument Cluster Flickering / Outage

    Excellent info. Thanks for posting!
  12. This post is a lesson in NOT using dialectric grease on battery terminals. Summary: electronic gauges must be sensitive to the quality of grounding. Last week I installed a quick-connect harness for my Battery Tender. The negative lead was attached to the negative "jump-start" stud stud in the engine bay. Then I applied some Motorcraft dialectric grease to the terminals to improve mating of the surfaces. All was good until the next day when engine heat and parking in the sun resulted in the instrument cluster flickering and eventually going dark. Battery voltage and charging systems are working fine. Cleaning the dialectric compound off the terminals and cleaning with Caig's De-Oxit spray for added insurance restored normal instrument functions. Conclusion: dialectric grease is not conductive enough except in high voltage applications like spark plug boots. There is some confusion online however, with some folks claiming to use it on ecu connections for waterproofing. Sidebar: the reason for installing the Battery Tender leads was due to battery draw that I discovered to be a glove box that was missing the actuator arm for the lamp switch. See separate topic.
  13. I may have found a cause of battery drain. See my post related to a compromised switch assembly on the glovebox door. It could be damaged or displaced during an cabin air filter replacement - as ours was before we purchased it used with 22,000 miles. Thread link: https://lincolnmkzforum.com/topic/3972-glovebox-light-switch-failure-battery-drain/?tab=comments#comment-15752
  14. jmcgliss

    Small Update Mod

    That's pretty low, and far what how Lincoln markets their level of service and customer satisfaction. They must assume Lincoln owners never look under the hood, so to speak. I am wondering if something similar happened with my Fall Ford Quick Lane oil change where I declined the cabin air filter replacement. When I got around to changing it myself this Spring, the part of the assembly that turns the glove box switch on and off was missing. I posted a separate thread about this. Could a disgruntled mechanic remove this part, causing the glove box light to never turn off? Yep, it's possible, and would trigger a return visit from the customer for a new battery.
  15. jmcgliss

    Glovebox light switch failure = battery drain

    This is the replacement part installed. The pin was not included in the replacement, so I riveted the new part to the glove box door arm (green arrow). The other green arrow points to the white switch (on the old part) that turns the light off when the glove box door is closed (and all the appropriate parts are installed). For certain, the glove box light was a drain on the battery any time the car was "on". The light may have even stayed on all the time. When sitting in the car and closing the doors, courtesy lights go after after a brief period, but the glove box light stays on (with the glove box open or switch not engaged). Does anyone know of there is a backup timer that turns all lights off after say 10 or 20 minutes of shutting the car down?