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Guest Message by DevFuse

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Spare Fuse #'s for Battery and ACC?

wiring fuse

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5 replies to this topic

#1 crushalot

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Posted 25 July 2017 - 09:45 AM

Hello everyone,

 

  I am installing one of the OEM type dashcam's recommended by Zalvern in this thread:

 

http://lincolnmkzfor...-in-a-2014-mkz/

 

Link to product:  https://www.aliexpre...-05745-VnYZvQVf

 

I have a loaded 2014 MKZ and was wondering if anyone knew if there are available spare fuse slots for both battery connection and ACC connections?  Normally I would check them all with a multi-meter however the fuse box is not easy to get to any I am getting old.  I could order a few piggyback fuse adapters and use known slots shared with other components, but I really don't like doing that.  

 

The manual does not clarify battery or ACC for the spare fuse slots.  I need them to be the dual micro slots because that is what's on the end of the wiring bundle included with the cam. I would just ask Zalvern what he used, but he has a 2017 and pretty sure the fuse layout is different.

 

Anyone know how to find this info without checking them by hand?  

 

Thanks

 

 

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#2 drolds1

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Posted 25 July 2017 - 12:32 PM

The fuse layout is the same in the '14 & '17.  I had a '14 and now have a '17 and used the same dashcam in both.  However, it was difficult enough finding a switched circuit being used let alone an unused switched one.  I used an Add-a-Circuit tap in #36-   Continuous control damping suspension module.   Auto dimming rear view mirror.  Rear heated seats.

 

If you're set on using a spare slot, you'll have to experiment with a multi-meter.  And yes, the passenger compartment fuse panel is a real PITA to access.  I'm not getting any younger either.



#3 Zalvern

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Posted 25 July 2017 - 12:43 PM

Fuse tap layout is closely the same between 13-16, and the 17 year models. However thanks for bringing this up as I should touch on a few things, compared to my old post.

Unfortunately my Sinosmart housing Dashcam decided to die on me not too long ago. I ended up returning the unit for a refund and got something else (Viofo A119S), as I did not want to wait for the longer ship time. Plus there were other issues that killed the enjoyment of it looking like an OEM installed dash cam. It was nice when it was working though, and I wouldn't say all units will perform poorly since not many are well known or used. At least the seller did not give me any grief in returning for a full refund.

Anyways use fuse slot 23 for yellow wire. Then slot 16 for red as it should always be hot with current (power truck is always active). Also you need to change the fuses into micro2 fuses as the one it comes with are not Micro2 types.

I had to skip fuse taps however on my 2017 and use a OBII power connector instead. The BCM has odd grooves that doesnt secure any fuse tap well, and that leads to electronics performing incorrectly or losing communication. I was thinking my multi-contour seats were malfunctioning, only to find out after removing all BCM fuse taps that it works perfectly fine and the fuse tap must be coming loose/not seat properly. The upper housing unit also was a real challenge to get to snap in.

Its a nice housing but for a 2017+ i would skip it. Mostly because the fuse tap and upper housing being a pain (My 2014 Fusion one is perfectly fine however). I really liked how integrated it looked though, but alas function over form is my preference in the end. Rear camera is poor quality for 720p. I would skip the rear camera completely and install a second discreet unit instead.


Edited by Zalvern, 26 July 2017 - 02:38 AM.


#4 Zalvern

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Posted 25 July 2017 - 12:49 PM

For those who want a stable power source consider using something like this:

https://www.amazon.c...g?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then along with splitter switch units like this:

https://www.amazon.c...g?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can hide it behind the compartment with the interior fuse box and its much easier to power things and more stable than fuse taps. OBII scanning will be fine, though you will need to direct connect a scantool to access the full Canbus network. I connect my dash cams, radar detector, and even my Delco Remy horn switch with this.

#5 crushalot

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Posted 25 July 2017 - 01:38 PM

Thank you all.  Ordered the parts I need to change the fuse ends and add taps.

 

Awesome advice as always.



#6 drolds1

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Posted 26 July 2017 - 02:30 AM

Fuse tap layout is closely the same between 13-16, and the 17 year models. However thanks for bringing this up as I should touch on a few things, compared to my old post.

Unfortunately mine decided to die on me not too long ago. Ended up returning for a refund and got something else (Viofo A119S) as I did not want to wait for the longer ship time. Plus other issues. It was nice when it was working though. At least the seller did not cause any issues in returning.

Use fuse slot 23 for yellow wire. Then slot 16 for red as it should always be hot with current (power truck is always active). Also you need to change the fuses into micro2 fuses as the one it comes with are not Micro2 types.

I had to skip fuse taps however on my 2017 and use a OBII power connector instead. The BCM has odd grooves that doesnt secure any fuse tap well, and that leads to electronics performing incorrectly or losing communication. The upper housing unit also was a real challenge to get to snap in.

Its a nice housing but for a 2017+ i would skip it now. Mostly because fuse tap and upper housing being a pain. I really liked how integrated it looked though, but alas function over form is my preference in the end. Rear camera is poor quality for 720p...even the upgraded one that looks nicer, still has poor imaging. I would skip the rear camera completely and install a second discreet unit instead.

 

Good choice on the Viofo.  I replaced my old dashcam with the Viofo in my 2014 and transferred it to the '17.  I like its wedge shape which looks right at home next to the forward camera and rain sensor housing.  I also liked that, unlike many others, not only does it have a glass lens but that lens is adjustable side-to-side.  It's hardly noticeable from outside the car.  Just a short length of wire is showing next to the aforementioned housings.  That can't really be avoided.

 

I really like the idea of the OBDII power source.  Great tip!  Thanks for the link.  This is why I love these forums.  We all learn from each other.

 

Mine is plugged into a 12V female accessory socket hidden under the IP and powered with an Add-a-Circuit tap.  It's easily removable at lease end.  I've had no electrical issues in either car with this setup.

 

Attached File  DSCN3075.JPG   73.55KB   0 downloads

 

I have the optional GPS mount.  Didn't really need it but it makes the unit easier to dismount.


Edited by drolds1, 26 July 2017 - 02:34 AM.







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