I have purchased and installed the Steeda Performance Fusion/MKZ Sway bar onto my 2014 3.7awd MKZ. I took some images along the way to assist anyone else who may be interested in this suspension modification/upgrade. I would rate this job at about 4/10, it was fairly easy to do with basic tools and mechanical knowledge. I did it in about 45min, alone in the garage.
- The part was purchased from CD3performance, you may find it for $185 HERE (Price includes shipping)
- The bar is said to be 30% stiffer. It measures at roughly +2.0mm larger in O.D. compared to stock.
- The bar comes with poly bushings, lube (energy's proprietary lube), brackets, and instructions.
- Silver finish, welded ends, and welded/fixed collars for secure mounting.
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- I used a 1/2" Drive ratchet with short extension
- Deep 13mm socket
- Ratcheting 18mm wrench
- 6mm allen
- PB Blaster
- Wheel ramps
1) Start by backing the car up onto ramps
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2) Locate Stock RSB and use PBBlaster (or other penetrating lubricant) on the lower sway link hardware, and the OEM bracket hardware, and let sit for a few minutes.
3) **Be sure to take note of the orientation of the stock bar, and stock links.**
4) Loosen the lower rear-sway bar link nuts, pictured below, using the 18mm wrench. I find it is easier to break them loose using only the wrench first. Once it gets moving, then insert the 6mm allen as your counter-hold, and back the nut off the stud. This will help prevent you from accidentally stripping the internal hex of the stud if they are really seized up. After the nuts come off, wiggle the link of of the lower spring arm, and tuck the link up by the sway bar. Doing so keeps the entire unit for compact for the removal step.
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5) Loosen the 4 bracket bolts. A variety of extensions may be needed for best leverage. The more forward bolts were significantly harder to remove, after a few minutes, everything comes off.
6) Maneuver the bar and attached hardware off the car. I just moved the bar towards the passenger side, using the gap between bumper and wheel to exit the car, and once it was far enough, out and around from the center exhaust pipe.
7) With the bar off the car, remove the sway bar links and transfer to new bar in the SAME orientation and sides. Also, apply thread locking compound to the threads. Tq spec is 42 ft-lb on these.
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8) Observe the two bars side by side
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9) Apply supplied lube to inside of new bushings, inside faces of fixed collars, and anywhere else the poly will make contact with metal on the bar. This will keep things moving, and quiet. Formula5 lube is VERY STICKY, so have a rag and soapy water handy to clean up after. This stuff helps keep water and dirt out and away. The brackets also have zerk fittings for easy reapplication in the future. Steeda does not have a maintenance interval recommendation in their instructions.
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10) Once the bushings are on the bar, it is ready to be installed in the car. Simply reverse the order in which it was removed. I lightly threaded the 4 bracket bolts first to support the bar. After guiding in the link hardware to the spring arms, and making sure the links were as straight as possible, I snugged everything up gradually, ensuring a nice centered fit. Final TQ spec on the brackets is also 42 ft-lb.
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Check all hardware, and orientation. Make sure none of the rear leveling sensor wiring was damaged during install, as it tends to get in the way. Admire your work, and go for the test drive!.
All in all, I have gotten some highway, back road, and basic driving done with the bar. It feels great. Works exactly as advertised. The handling is more balanced, the car has less body roll, and turn-in instills more confidence in corners. I have noticed ZERO decrease in ride comfort, and there is no NVH increase as well. For $180, its a great handling mod and helps give the MKZ chassis some more respect. High speed corners (on/off ramps, sweeping expressway corners) are now very firm and fun. Loving it so far!
Let me know if you have any feedback or questions.