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My audio began (within 500 miles of my warranty running out, of course) to pop and all speakers but one in the dash to intermittently cut out.  This sounds like a loose connection, as it will often happen when I hit a bump, but not always.  It has a very loud pop and crackle, and when the speakers cut out it will sometimes return after another pop, but will also be restored when I cycle the power to the car.  These speakers are always active due to the voice control and bluetooth, so I can't turn off the radio and ignore it.  

 

The dealer tried to diagnose the issue and came back with "we think it might be in one of 2 electronic modules, but we can't tell without a lot of extensive tests."  I know that there are no codes in the computer showing problems.

 

Is there a way to find a service bulletin for this, a wiring diagram, or something else that could help me identify what's going on?  I suspect I'm not so lucky as to be the only one to have this particular issue.

 

Thanks!

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I bet the speaker in the dash is the issue. A loose connection may be toggling on/off and the pop you are hearing is that circuit opening and closing. Also, if the + side of the circuit touches metal or the - terminal, it could short and cause a fault condition in the amp. Power cycling can clear this fault. Amps of all types (car audio, home audio, pro audio) have this type of failsafe that possibly is not monitored by the BCM. I'm not sure how to remove that speaker but it may be easier to find that info than finding a TSB or wiring diagram without paying for a suscription (I've tried).

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Does this still occur if you have a cable from your phone plugged into the Aux audio jack (assuming you have one in the console)?  Crud or oxidation can break the circuit intermittently, and is easy to rule out.

 

With my bass guitar combo amp, I keep a jumper cable plugged into the Send and Return jacks to prevent vibration from causing intermittent shorts of the jacks (the classic $.05 part scenario).

A treatment with Caig's DeOxit was ineffective since the cheap jack component was physically not holding contact with nothing plugged into it. I have also seen these small 2.5mm-3mm jacks fail or oxidize in powered studio monitors, with similar crackling symptoms. I realize the circuitry may be different in the MKZ, but it's something that's easy to rule out.

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I have the exact same issue. Any luck fixing it yet?

 

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