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Zalvern

3.0T Performance Modifications

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Any future modifications for performance enhancement will relate strongly to the 2.3L and 2.7L Ecoboost engine scenes.

 

Everything up to the Throttle Body (prior to the Intake Manifold) directly shares components with the 2.7L Fusion Sport. So anything that works on the "intake" side of things will be acceptable on the 3.0T Lincoln engine.

 

Because the MKZ and Lincoln overall is aimed at daily driving (meaning very little need to optimize high RPM and throttle action), the 3.0T engine has quite the bottlenecks in place when wanting to unleash its true fury. More air and cooling will definitely improve its power, but at the cost of fuel economy...hence the stock intake system limits.

Edited by Zalvern

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tnx for the update Zalvern -- good to know the similarities with the Fusion.

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For those who may happen to reside near Beltsville, Maryland:

 

Custom Performance Engineering is very much interested in inspecting a 3.0T MKZ for bolt-on upgrade confirmation.

 

Just contact Sean Zaldivar: SZaldivar@cp-e.com

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Good find and opportunity for someone closeby.

C.

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After some time has passed...I indulge into some modding:

 

On its own, the Livernois 93 octane tune is restricted with all stock parts. The tune is cool once you first get it, and definitely wakes up the car...but over time I personally start feeling the limitations more than any other "ecoboost vehicle" I've been in that has been tuned. But there were times I just couldn't help but feel it wasn't so great vs stock tune since its more about unlocking middle to high end performance. This is my honest thoughts on the Livernois tune after being with it since December. These performance bottlenecks are what make the shifting and overall feel of the vehicle feel...unimpressive.

 

I took my focus onto the 3.0T's Intake system. Being limited by, essentially the 2.7L Ecoboost for the fuel economy benefits when daily driving, and probably explains why we can get equal MPG as the 2.7L brethren. I cannot say how it would fare for the 2.7L Ecoboost, but by removing some air flow and boost restrictions, the 3.0T becomes more stable and reliable at higher engine loads. There is more than just a 0.3L difference between the two engines going on. After you go pass the throttle body, the 3.0L is more uniquely designed compared to say, the 2017 Ford Fusion Sport. Less shared parts.

 

Resistance to heat soak while in idle is important and useful to have, but recovery from heat soak while in motion is more important and useful for the real world. Temperatures should drop, not rise, when in motion and optimal is when temperatures keep dropping as acceleration keeps increasing. If temperatures rise during acceleration, an inefficient component is at work. This is the 3.0T's Achilles' heel in stock form.

 

First is the Air Box Intake upgrade. Steeda's 2017 Fusion Sport fits, and the only modification is to allow a slice in the top half of the box so the hood strut can rest within the box. While the Steeda "CAI" is open air unit, while the stock box is sealed, it is superior to the stock box in air flow and heat soak recovery. Tested plenty of times watching Intake Air Temperatures and the stock air box is flat out terrible and only good for "the daily driving". The 3.0T is a "one trick pony" as heat soak, is impossible to recover from in stock form until it cools down with engine shut off. With the Steeda CAI in place along with the soon to mention throttle body upgrade, I can keep IAT readings in better check as the vehicle is seeing action, and recover faster when the MKZ is idling after a high engine load run.

 

Sealed intakes are not always the best, especially if the entire engine bay is going to become a 150 F oven. The entire box will take longer to shed trapped heat whereas the Steeda CAI will get absorbed into the hood liner once the vehicle begins to go into motion. Faster you go, the faster the Steeda CAI returns to ambient while low to middle engine load is being applied.

 

 

The 3.0T doesn't need larger induction pipes, as long the turbochargers are stock, so the CAI being only the air box being changed is really the only necessary part for reliable air flow and faster heat soak recovery pre-Intercooler. To improve IAT2 and Charge Air Cooler temperatures however, the Front Mount Intercooler needs to be upgraded as it will rapidly heat soak under high load, yet only recover once the load demand is released. I await C-PE's creation and release of the 2.7L Ford Fusion Sport Intercooler to enjoy as an upgrade.

 

Not to mention it does unlock stronger roar to the induction system. I'm not too much a big fan of Steeda's products, and the CAI itself isn't worth the price brand new. I bought mine used from someone who wanted to sell it for about half its cost after feeling it wasn't so great for their Fusion Sport locally (they're jealous of my MKZ, oh ho ho). But it does get the job done and allow the 3.0T to breathe and cool much better than stock can ever hope to do.

 

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Next is the Bypass Valve upgrade. To ensure boost power is being managed to the fullest.

 

Learning a bit more about OEM Electronic Bypass Valves (BPV for short), they have their pros and cons. The con only being is the system is usually outfitted with some plastic parts and doesn't adjust based on active boost pressures, it either just opens or closes. This is why sometimes the vehicle will feel bogged down or "lag" like the turbochargers haven't spooled up due to the abrupt opening or closure of boost pressure. Not to mention the factory valve allows more seepage of boost so the plastic bits do not risk breaking (it has multiple holes compared to the GFB DV+'s single compression port hole).

 

Enter Go Fast Bits Diverter Valve Plus 9358, which fits most of Ford and Lincoln electronic BPVs. Surely enough the 3.0T engine's BPV is exact same as used on the Fiesta ST, Mustang Ecoboost, and other 2.3L/2.7L vehicles. Unlike Turbosmart which replaces the OEM valve with mechanical valve and tricks the ECU with a resistor, the GFB DV+ 9358 transforms the OEM BPV into a highly reliable and superior device. So as long one isn't seeking the blow off "psh" sound, I personally feel this is the best BPV upgrade to consider. Might even be worthwhile for the 3.0T in stock form, and cheaper than any complete BPV/BOV replacements.

 

This install video shows how easy it is to change out the plastic parts for the upgraded metal portions:

 

 

The end result is this:

 

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Perfect fit. Keeps the OEM abilities but secures the benefits with boost performance. Not to mention ditching those E5 bolts for more standard ones.

 

Now the final modification, which often doesn't see light unless we're going bigger all around: The throttle body. Given the 3.0L is being dampered for fuel economy and low end torque, I feel an upgrade was worth the risk...and it is a risk I am very happy to have made.

 

I won on eBay a used but in excellent condition BBK 1894 65mm throttle body that is said to work on the 2.3L and 2.7L Ecoboost Engines. I was a bit weary if it would work due to possible changes in PCM electronics, but this definitely delivered some much desired improvements even though all piping is still stock diameters, along with the turbochargers. Installed it with perfect fit, and uses the stock bolts just fine. No CEL, idles just as smoothly and more quickly to relax after high load runs too. Just performed a PCM adaptive learning reset via FORScan (better than unhooking the battery all the time when electronic mods are installed), let the vehicle idle with and without the A/C compressor, and then go for a drive. Easy.

 

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The stock throttle body is around 63mm, and is undersized to the Intake Manifold's 65mm inlet. 2mm difference might not seem much, but definitely changed my view after actually installing and using the throttle body (if it disappointed me I could have returned it, and it did not). The post-Intercooler charge pipe also bitter fits 65mm so the stock throttle body itself slightly downsizes as the air flow gatekeeper. The BBK helps equalize the Post Charge Air pipe to Intake Manifold air flow, and monitoring FORScan, I am not seeing any serious pressure drops or negative signs except reduced fuel economy when having "too much fun". As a bonus, Intake Air temperature 2 (which is read at the intake manifold) now does not overheat beyond the Charge Air Cooler temperatures, whereas the undersized stock TB doesn't help manage this overheat tendency at high engine loads. Under high load, my charge air temperature reading is always the highest value indicating it is the weak point in the system now.

 

I suspect this is done for higher air velocity reasons and fuel economy, as more air will result in more fuel to make the higher power...but lower MPG rates. Stock TB is great for low end torque and fuel economy, meeting the daily driver's standard, but once I got the Livernois tune I couldn't help but feel top end performance was lacking especially when you floor it while in a roll. The 3.0T engine would feel like its "gasping" for more air (oxygen) not to mention, I would see a bit more rich A/F ratio readings when it would happen, so fuel is being wasted and combustion isn't the best it could be. Now I get some nice exhaust "pops" after the vehicle begins to cool down and EGT readings are great. Automatic Sport gearing wasn't so enjoyable in higher load ranges either until I swapped in this throttle body. Even before I had the Steeda CAI and GFB DV+, the BBK throttle body worked without an issue and already showed some more stable high RPM performances. I really enjoy the synergy between the Livenois Throttle Enhancer and BBK Throttle Body, especially with a Livernois tune to take advantage of it.

 

Now while I notice its more easy to get lower MPG rates, the car is ever so more stable in its performance output. I find it hard press to go back to stock and honestly am very very surprised the throttle body did bring an overall improvement in performance demand and output feel. I do not focus solely on Horsepower and Torque gains, rather it is reliability and execution for performance demand that is my interest. The fact the BBK Throttle Body now keeps IAT2 temperatures lower than charge air (even though stock FMIC reaches almost 200 degrees in Fahrenheit at high loads) and doesn't cause the engine to "choke" for more air is enough of a boon to me. Of course, I did luck out to buy one much cheaper than intended retail price.

 

My final thoughts: I am VERY PLEASED with how my 3.0T MKZ is performing, and these three mods took it to another stage that makes it hard to go back from. The 3.0T only with a tune is still lacking, especially as "adaptive learning kicks in" but now I do not even feel like the adaptive learning is a issue anymore. Especially with the Livernois Throttle enhancer, I enjoy a wide custom performance feel to how I wish to drive the car. After adding these three mods, I know the only big bottleneck remaining now is the Front Mount Intercooler, and I am excited to see just how more effortless the 3.0T engine becomes once temperatures are not heat soaking as badly when under high load.

 

Now to just wait the C-PE FMIC Fusion Sport upgrade which I'll nab for improving the Charge Air Temperatures under high load. I also suspect the stock Engine Mount is a bit too soft given I can feel the engine rock especially with it gaining this more power, downside to a engine mount upgrade is increased vibrations...and I don't want to jeopardize the core meaning of comfort with a Lincoln vehicle. Decisions...decisions...

Edited by Zalvern

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Thanks for write-up.  I hope you'll post some ¼-mile times when you complete all the mods.

 

I have a soft spot for BBK.  They developed a CAI for the Lincoln LS 3.9 V8 back in the day when no one else was interested in producing low volume performance parts for the car.  It was a quality piece.  I still have mine sitting on a shelf.

 

While we're on the topic, Flowmaster (yes, the exhaust co.), has come out with the Delta Boost Module.  It's supposedly plug-and-play and you control it with an smart phone app.  You can dial in up to an additional 4psi of boost.  It's stackable with aftermarket tuners and any other aftermarket equipment.  Ironically, there's a version for every EB engine except the 3.0.  Maybe they'll release a 3.0 model in the future or maybe the one for the 2.7 is adaptable.

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wtg Z.....you've beeb busy........ I've had zero time for cars lately due to family but will follow this closely.

Kudos for sharing ........ 

 

C.

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Fantastic write up. When's the next 1/4 mile day?

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Not going to any drag strips until the Intercooler is upgraded. It is a critical piece to upgrade for performance, as the stock unit is useless anytime high engine loads are applied (ex. WOT).

 

I would share some FORScan graphs but for some reason, the windows version on my Surface Book keeps freezing randomly and so I fail to save a graph chart of the log reading. FORScan lite on my phone however works fine, and I could screen cap it but it'll appear small. It can show just how greatly the rate of change in temperatures improve though. My ambition isn't necessary to make more power, but to reliably call upon its power whenever it is needed and release the restraints. Not keep it as a one trick pony that gets bogged down after an initial sprint.

 

That Delta Boost Module could be interesting, and I guess nice for those who want to avoid direct PCM tuning. Given our 3.0T is using less compression as it is more "boost prone" over the 2.7L. I would highly believe the 2.7L one will already be compatible with the 3.0T. However I would definitely wait to upgrade the Intercooler and get the GFB DV+ for the bypass valve to ensure better temperature and boost management.

 

The only modification I want next is the FMIC from hopefully C-PE, as I could ask for more optimal tuning down the line. Right now C-PE updated me on they're probably going to remove the shroud in order to fit the larger Intercooler...that might be a problem especially for the MKZ as the shroud holds the shutters in place and might collide with the ACC radar module.

Edited by Zalvern

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Got FORScan graphing to work now, and this is when it counts to see if modifications are doing their job of bringing improvements to me. I'll post a post mod graph just to show mostly the improved IAT1 (Intake Air Temperature readings).

 

In the graph I highlighted a point where I went WOT and witness the peak and valley effects. Note the key is the faster a peak declines, the better recovery is. In stock form it is impossible for the temperatures to return near ambient. Of course on cooler nights, the faster the recovery effect becomes.

 

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Note out of all temperatures, Charge Air is the highest, with IAT2 behind it. In order to improve IAT2, Charge Air needs to do better (aka the Intercooler).

 

I also have added personal mod made by myself: High Load Heat Shielding. This heat shield simply helps repel the excessive heat that is created during Wide Open Throttle/High RPM performance. While it doesn't do much at idle, it gives the Steeda CAI some extra shielding and therefore avoid any heavy heat soak during high action. Prior to this shielding, IAT1 would still spike up to 110+ and beyond on pretty cool 65 degree nights when unleashing high load performance.

 

The graph shows this. Only briefly did IAT1 peak to 100 and even then, it immediately cooled down quickly. Not too shabby temperature management considering Ambient Air was between 61 and 66 degrees F. I plan to create a few more personal heat shields to help management where all the high engine load heat goes...it is only temporary heat spikes after all and needs better containment.

 

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Edited by Zalvern

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Zalvern,

 

  I see you haven't posted since June?  Did you Sell your car? Was Hoing to see some Very Low 12's in the 1/4 with all your mods!!???

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deleted post

Edited by colinsz

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Nah I just been low key due to interest, as I figured not many cared much more in regards to this. Modding is done though and I foresee the MKZ being a sleeper wonder with all I done. Last modification was darkstar's rear engine mount upgrade. Even with driver's package, it's a drastic improvement in traction and steering.

 

I missed drag strip days for the year and wasn't going to speculate what it's times will be, will just get slips for proof.

Edited by Zalvern

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Thanks!  Yea, I'm gonna pretty Much follow your path with Mods, hoping to get into the Mid 12's or better Next year!

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I just installed the Livernois tuner on my 3.0 MKZ. There is a noticeable difference in the mid to upper rpm range on the highway. I loaded the 93 octane aggressive tune, because why not? (Firmer shifts according to their CS). I'll let you know how it does at the track once the weather clears.

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I do daily drive with the firm shift tune as I prefer it. With darkstar's engine mount, it's very strong in making a pull.

 

I plan to hit up some drags almost every Friday in the coming weeks! Get some tune and mod reports in.

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Roll on the new season. Looking forward to some very good 1/4 m times with all your mods. Good Luck.

C.

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I unloaded the aggressive tune and went to 93 tune. The aggressive tune had shifts hanging at WOT and engine light flashing

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I unloaded the aggressive tune and went to 93 tune. The aggressive tune had shifts hanging at WOT and engine light flashing

Uh oh. I had this issue and in the end I thanked the tune for helping me discover it sooner.

 

Did it shudder while the CEL flashed? What is your MKZ's build date? Cause that is a misfire.

 

I highly recommend you check your spark plugs now. My guess is going to be is one of them will be wet with oil. Also check your engine oil level.

 

Put it (the spark plug after checking) back, downtune to stock, go WOT on stock tune until finally triggers a misfire again. Get it into service because it's not the tune (but tune does make it easier to misfire) but due to a service TSB involving some bad cylinder heads getting used in some 2.7/3.0 engines. Causes oil to leak and ruin spark plugs.

 

Had to get mine taken in for this. No issues with the fact it was tune as it's only going to be one spark plug going bad (not all of them).

Edited by Zalvern

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Thanks for the posts. I put in an order for an 18 MKZ 3.0 AWD and it will be here in June. I was googling about CAIs and your post came up. Thanks for all the info :) 

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Thanks for the posts. I put in an order for an 18 MKZ 3.0 AWD and it will be here in June. I was googling about CAIs and your post came up. Thanks for all the info :)

 

Glad to be of inspiration. I would highly recommend contacting darkstar in regards to having a CAI. He'll make it custom fit better to MKZ as the Steeda one is very tight and doesn't account for the hood strut.

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Zalvern,

 

  I just installed the Livernois Tune last night, and it CERTAINLY Wakes the car up Big time, One 'Maybe Not so Minor' Problem however is that Boost Launches Now get a good amount of Wheelspin,

and Appararantly if its enough wheelspin it Kills the 1-2 shift!!  Perhaps Lowering the tire pressure will help?? I'm headed to Cecel County Dragway on Friday to get some passes in, and Post the results...

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Zalvern,

 

I just installed the Livernois Tune last night, and it CERTAINLY Wakes the car up Big time, One 'Maybe Not so Minor' Problem however is that Boost Launches Now get a good amount of Wheelspin,

and Appararantly if its enough wheelspin it Kills the 1-2 shift!! Perhaps Lowering the tire pressure will help?? I'm headed to Cecel County Dragway on Friday to get some passes in, and Post the results...

Yes, tire quality plays a factor but it's overall the safety systems at play that make launching these cars very hard.

 

First make sure to turn off Advancetrac, which is done by being in Sport Gear and holding the Traction Control button down for six seconds about. You will see a message saying Advancetrac off.

 

Now if you're all stock with all seasons, the following things hurt launch performance if you brake hold too long before launching:

 

-Intake air temperatures rising due to building RPM. Causes PCM to halt power. The Intercooler is the weakest link on stock which hurts IAT2 temps. If Air/Fuel goes off for any reason, car throttles back on power.

 

-Engine mount may lose a lot of energy during shifting due to excessive movement. Too much launch actually causes it to bog and so you have to ease up and roll into the launch as swift and smoothly you can. Our transmission is VERY PICKY and makes many find it poor and hard to work with.

 

-Tire grip which I put summers and winters on from day 1 of owning mine. But any loaners I've been in will slip a lot more and cause it to bog. The Continental is even worse with wheel hop if you are too aggressive with it! Lowering PSI may help but I may suggest just toning down launch RPM instead while holding the brakes. The AWD will aim to hook the wheels quickly.

 

It takes practice to get the car to launch smoothly with the tune. Upgrades help improve it but the PCM is a big governor for safety. Beyond 1-2 shift, the 2-3 shift is also notorious.

 

It may be better to start your first 3 gears less aggressive then go all out once in 3rd and climbing good. That's when some of these mods help improve it's ability to become more muscle/sports car than stock.

Edited by Zalvern

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Zalvern,

 

I will check my plugs this weekend. But I did a practice launch after switching to the regular 93 tune and have not had the CEL or shudder return. I do get the upshift bog mentioned in another post. But I had those stock last year and still ran 13.0. I found launching at around 2000 rpm ninimized the start line wheel hop and still allowed WOT launch.

 

HRLINC

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Zalvern, I have a steeda air box I am trying to put in my mkz. There is no way the box is going to fit I ended up taking the battery out. Put the box in. Realized that the box protruded way past where the battery mounted. Then I saw two sets of battery hold down locations. How long is your battery? I noticed on the fusion the battery appears shorter. My battery is 12.25 inches. Thank you

Edited by Badbird90

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